Intermitant Start

[Blue 96]

Sometimes when I turn the key I get a no start. So far I have had the starter checked out at Auto Zone OK. Replaced the battery cables and the relay on the fender. When it happens the only thing that happens is a clicking sound coming from the passenger foot well. I disconected the starter had someone else turn the key while I was under the truck. The click was coming from the foot well and is not anything to do with the starter. Then for no reason it will start and runs for about a week then no start. Very frustrating. I was told that there is a inertria switch in the foot well but I thought it shut off the gas in case of an accident not cut off power. Any thoughts out there?

[subford]

Most of the time this turns out to be the slip on spade connector at the starter. You have to cut back about one inch of wire and crimp on a new spade connector.

It can also be that your gear shift is out of adj. and the safety switch is stopping it from cranking.

If none above the it would be the Ignition switch or the plug that plugs into it.

The inertia switch is just a fuel cut off.

[Blue 96]

Thanks for the reply. When I replaced the cables I did cut back the wire that was all stiff and the insulation was cracked. Put a new spade connectoer on and chenk the continuity from the relay to the starter. All checks out. I had the steering colum rebuilt a couple of years ago when the plastic shift tube broke. They also put in a new key switch so I will tackle the saftey interlock switch angle.

[PKRWUD]

The clicking sound you hear should be the starter relay on the passenger side inner fender, behind the battery. The fact that it's clicking means that the system is working correctly up to that point, so it's not in the steering column/ignition switch, and it's not the neutral safety switch. That doesn't leave much else. Double check your cable connections at the battery, ground, the starter relay, and at the starter. Make sure they are all tight and clean.

[Stuffdeer]

I just had this problem with my truck as well.

It turned out to be the Positive going onto the battery was acually lose on the clamp that holds it on to the battey.

It clicked and wouldn't start, fiddled with that, and she started right up. Tightened it down, and haven't had a problem since.

[ymeski]

The continuity of the pos to the starter's only half the battle. U should have a neg wire that connects from - post to fenderwell connection to starter mount bolt into engine block. Mine does anyway. Common for deteriorating to a failed electrical current carrying capacity, and still appear to be o.k.