Question response needed asap
#1
Question response needed asap
I have a 87' f150 and Ive given up on the problem it has. Ive tryed replacing stuff on it. Different modules on the intake but nothing has changed. Its got the 302 motor and what it does is it starts up fine. Runs good, idles good, good throttle response, but once it warms up, it starts to spit and sputter and then it shuts off and wont start back up till it cools back down. Its not over heating or anything. We thought it was the cats but took then off and it still does it. Not sure what else to try. Any input would be appreciated.
#5
Either get the codes pulled or grab a paper clip and a pen and pad. A caveman could pull codes on these trucks it is so dang simple.
#7
The code readers aren't that hard, they do the same thing as the paperclip method. There will be X many flashes close together to indicate a number, a moderate pause, then more close flashes. The moderate pause separates the individual numbers of the code. If there is more than one code, there will be a long pause until it starts flashing out the next one.
Then there is a very long pause, and it starts flashing out previously stored codes that aren't tripping the light now. If you can count to 9, you can pull codes.
example:
****
(short pause)
*******
(longer pause)
*
(short pause)
***
Would indicate two codes, a 47 and 13.
What can be a little confusing if the CEL isn't on all the time is it may give a "111" code, a "system OK" first, before moving on to previously stored codes.
The code readers beep and flash so you can hear it in the cab, the paperclip method makes the CEL flash the exact same way.
Throwing parts at a problem is a waste of money and time. You don't go hunting by randomly shooting around a forest. A good diagnosis is what makes a smart mechanic.
Then there is a very long pause, and it starts flashing out previously stored codes that aren't tripping the light now. If you can count to 9, you can pull codes.
example:
****
(short pause)
*******
(longer pause)
*
(short pause)
***
Would indicate two codes, a 47 and 13.
What can be a little confusing if the CEL isn't on all the time is it may give a "111" code, a "system OK" first, before moving on to previously stored codes.
The code readers beep and flash so you can hear it in the cab, the paperclip method makes the CEL flash the exact same way.
Throwing parts at a problem is a waste of money and time. You don't go hunting by randomly shooting around a forest. A good diagnosis is what makes a smart mechanic.
Last edited by RaWarrior; 05-05-2008 at 12:47 PM.
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#8
First off its not my truck and I deal with OBD II setups so I dont know how to do it. Second I was just seeing if anyone has had this problem. And third the guy that does know how to pull the codes says he got alot of codes. So calm down. Ill have the codes tomorrow and post up. Calm down man, I know protocall and Im not a newb.
#9
Who is not calm? I was just making the point that throwing parts at a truck without knowing what is wrong is stupid. It gets old and expensiv real quick. Especialy when codes are this easy to pull: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
#10
First off its not my truck and I deal with OBD II setups so I dont know how to do it. Second I was just seeing if anyone has had this problem. And third the guy that does know how to pull the codes says he got alot of codes. So calm down. Ill have the codes tomorrow and post up. Calm down man, I know protocall and Im not a newb.
Off the top of my head I would think ignition module heat soak, or possibly some other electrical problem. But I wouldn't suggest anyone buy even a cheap part without looking into it further.