I got a ticket recently for expired inspection, which of course had me scrounge for enough change to get one done.

The reasons I failed:
Gas cap integrity (easily fixed)
too high of NOx
*These are the result of a bumper bender that insurance will fix when the other guy's inspector comes out to assess/fix the damages:

state law says license plate needs to be mounted on the bumper (but cop told me to mount it in window because when it's on the bumper, you can't see it)
license plate lights must light up (wires were ripped, but I can make that do right)
**the above I can just rig to work at least to pass inspection, then tear apart for insurance to fix


So basically, my only concern is emissions.

HydroCarbons: 25mph = 28 vs 143 Standard, 15mph = 19 vs 147
CO(%): 0.03 vs 1.60 & 0.03 vs 147
CO2(%): 14.8 vs (blank) & 14.8 vs (blank)
02(%): 0.3 vs (blank) & 0.2 vs (blank)
NOx: 1224 vs 905 & 1305 vs 990



If automotive school knowledge serves me correctly, high NOx is a cause of high internal engine temperatures and/or after combustion devices, i.e. Advanced Timing... EGR valve, Catalytic Converter and some other things (correct me if I'm wrong)

I've pulled the codes and have torque converter clutch slippage and EGR valve opening not detected. Sounds familiar

I don't know of any way to test the cat.

Would it be probable that if I replaced the cat my NOx would go down significantly? Assuming MAYBE the cat was replaced only once since the trucks been driving (its got 177,000)

And not to be a cheapskate, but only to pass emissions and save some more money for actual repairs, would it be possible to retard the timing enough to lower NOx, since it seems I have a fairly safe buffer zone for the other gasses if they should rise?

I can only rely on showing police officers my recent ticket for so long before they say it doesn't matter. I need my truck for work and have to (and will) drive it to make money to repair my truck to pass emissions.


P.S. I don't have the money to figure out if the EGR problem is mechanical or electric AND have it fixed (I've got about $200 left in the bank and still need to buy milk cheese bread, etc as well as some baby formula and diapers and such) Thanks Texas!

 

You need to fix the EGR, then the numbers will be in spec.

Fire it up and pull the vacuum line off the EGR valve. Use a vacuum pump or do a "suck" test, apply vacuum to the EGR valve. If the idle drops or gets rough, the valve is okay, the problem is in the control circuit. If it does nothing, clean or replace the EGR valve.

 

I went to autozone to try to rent a vacuum pump before work, then o'reillys, nobody has one... seems they've hoarded all the pumps at the autozone Irving hub store.

Does anyone know if I spend the $200 for the deposit, then they return it (using a debit/check card) after using it if it will cause problems spending that money again or if they just put a hold on it and the funds are available for use right away?

 

I think you can buy one at AutoZone for about $25.

Harbor Freight has them for about $18.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474


michael

 

You don't need a $200 pump, those are for evacuating air conditioning systems. I'm talking about a small handheld device that you squeeze a handle or pull a plunger to apply vacuum. That's what the Harbor Freight link leads to.

It takes a few days to get the debit deposit back.

You can apply enough suction with your mouth to open an EGR valve. All you need is a piece of the right size vacuum hose.

 

don't even need to buy a pump. Just get a piece of hose that fits on the valve and suck on the hose. Shouldn't have to suck too hard to get it to drop down the RPMs if it's working correctly

 

I sucked the EGR nipple through a hose i just happened to have in the back of the truck.

The valve is good, as the RPMs dropped and the engine ran rough. Would the control circuit be the electronic thing attached to the side? Or is there a lot more to this circuit than it looks? If it is just this piece, would it still make the NOx go down? I'm not sure if this is what opens the EGR or just senses that it IS open, etc. Also, what is it called? Is it the Vacuum Solenoid?

Thanks a bunch! ya'll saved me from an expensive waiting period.

 

It is a EGR Vacuum Solenoid.

They are about $50 at AutoZone.