Hey guys. Im kind of lost when it comes to lift kits, but Id like to put some lift on me 1992 f150 ext cab 4X4 eventually. And after looking around, I really like the look of 6" suspension lift w/ 35" tires. So, with that being said, what are my options as far as lifts? I see cheap ones, and expensive ones... Id guess Id just like someone has purchased and had good luck with, but not spend to much extra $ at the same time. How much have you guys spent of 6" lifts and tires??

Just trying to get an idea of what I will be in for if I decide to...
THANKS!

 

I've been very happy with the BDS setup, which will run around 1.5k for the parts, depending on what options you go with. A couple of things to think about:

1. DO NOT use radius arm drop brackets. These create too much stress on the frame, and can cause your frame to crack. Only choose a kit that has extended radius arms.



2. With 35's, a steering stabilizer is a good plan, and should be factored into the lift cost. Also I have heard good things about the Superrunner steering kit, but I didn't try it (yet).

How are your gears?

 

Yes I would get the steering stabalizers, and idk how my gears are, but I did just have a fresh tranny rebuild with a shift kit and a few other goodies. How hard are these lift kits to install?? And what does a good set of 35"s cost a guy these days? Anyone need anything moddified on their brakes or drive shaft to make ends meet with a 6" lift??

 

I know BDS is good stuff, but what would I sacrifice if I went with a cheaper brand like tough country or ruff country??? Not that I would... I just would like to know what the $ difference is.

 

to many replies... sorry

 

to many replies... sorry

 

I put the rough country lift on my truck. I only did 2.5", but did go with the radius arm drop brackets. However, I welded them onto the frame which if it cracks, I think I got other issues However, I was impressed with the instructions and tech support.

If you do the lift I would opt for the rear springs and not blocks just makes the truck ride better and safer.

I would go with the steering stabilizer is makes a world of difference. Also, when you go to remove the bolts holding the A arms in place, make sure you have NOT disconnected the radius arm yet. Otherwise, catch

Lastly, something I did not do, it would be a good time to remove, inspect the grears and service the front diff, since you have almost out anyway. I need to pull mine down, and what a lot of work that is going to be now.

Well thats my 2 cents, oh and I don't really have other lift shocks to compare but I am not really happy with RC9000's they are extremelly stiff for everyday driving.

 

I used a tuff country 6" lift for my truck, which has been running great since I bought it, stiff enough for the everyday drive and I have much more flex than I did before. I think parts were around $1100 and I would definitely recommend the extended radius arms, much less stress on the frame, you get better travel, and it looks better in my opinion. I didn't get the steering stabilizer, would it really help that much? I mostly due city driving, with the occasional romp through the woods. Have heard it saves your steering components, but since I don't off road all that much I figured I didn't need it. Looked into a BDS lift as well, their warranty is better, but components wise after talking to my friends who work at our local lift shops and such, they said that Tuff country is just as good so I saved a few $$.

As far as tires go I am trying the Hankook RT03's which weren't that spendy only around $800 I believe mounted and balanced, they are holding up great so far in an Oregon winter, though not much snow has fallen yet. They have a soft tread so I have heard so unfortunately I couldn't give you much info about a wear rating, haven't had them that long. Toyo MT's are the most common for the 'performance traction' tire around here they were about $1k I believe.

Hope this helps man, good luck on the lift.

 

I was told either tuff country or rough country was a rip of one another... Was this true?? If so which one? I would think about one if guys are having good luck with one. Does it handle worse with the lift and no steering stabalizers?

 

I don't know about one being a rip off of the other, though I suppose it's possible. However, the Tuff country lift has done me well so far, the handling hasn't gone down at all even without a steering stabilizer, or at least not that i have noticed. Though now the tires rub a bit on the radius arms at full turn, but it's just barely and my tires have some extra sidewall tread that sticks out and may be adding to it. Otherwise no complications, had to drop my transfer case about half an inch because my driveline was at too great an angle and I didn't want any vibration. However that is probably due to the short bed and regular cab, makes the axle and T-case pretty close together.

I can't say that I have tested it thoroughly in an off road environment, but in everyday driving it seems just as good as before if not better with new shocks. Off road it did much better than my stock setup did, much faster reaction and of course more travel.

Later.

 

How hard is it to drop the transfer case?? Im pretty used to tires rubbing because the last owner of my truck squeezed 32"s on the stock set up, so she rubs pretty good at full tilt. And is it unheard of for any of these kits to break?? I mean I wouldnt do it if they are common for being problematic for the buyers...

And then how much do some shops that do this charge for the labor?

 

Dropping the T-case is fairly simple from what I've read, just have to take out the stock bolts from the t-case mount then throw on some washers, depending on how far you need to drop it, and then use longer bolts to secure it in place. I have personally never heard of any components braking, though if you have the shop install everything, they will usually cover it for a good long time if anything needs to be done. Even lowering my T-case was done and payed for by the shop because it was considered a 'fault' in the lift. Though I suppose it depends on the policies for whomever does it for you.

Warranty wise, I believe that Tuff Country's warranty only applies if you have someone certified for their kits do it, but don't quote me on it. They will replace anything that was broken due to some problem with the kit, ie they won't replace it if you get into an accident or something. BDS's is much more lax I believe, one guy told me he felt his springs were sagging a bit so he sent them back to BDS and they mailed him new ones free of charge. They also don't seem to mind if you race the kit or how you mess it up. Though I don't know if it matters who installs it or not. My local shop will also do repair labor for free on the tuff country's if something goes wrong, whereas the shop that had BDS would not.

In that regard it would seem that if you are going to do the kit yourself, BDS might be the way to go, the extra cost of the kit is offset by the rather great warranty on the parts and you could do the labor yourself so it wouldn't cost any more. Though since I let the shop install the kit for me, I went with Tuff country as they are warranted for parts and labor through my shop. As well as I bought my tires and wheels through them as well so I got a good deal on all of it.

I don't recall exactly how much it was for labor though I think it was around $300, for install and alignment.

 

Wow, I really appreciate all this insight! Im really on the fence on which to go with... Sounds like your paying for service more than anything. I see there is like a 6" rough country lift on ebay for $500 what luck have people had with these? Just out of sheer curiosity.

What was your difference in gas mileage when you installed the kit? Any difference at all?

 

No problem at all man, when I was deciding which kit for my truck I was looking everywhere for info and such, hopefully you'll be able to get all the questions answered right here. I haven't heard anything about the rough country, I don't even remember if the places around here carried them. Though if I remember, Ill call some of my buddies up a bit later in the day and see if they have had any experiences installing or servicing those kits. As far as mileage goes, it's hard to say, I haven't recalibrated my speedometer yet so I would assume that the odometer is reading off as well. However, I do think I lost a bit of mileage and I know I lost some 'passing power' on the highway and is why headers and exhaust is next on the list of upgrades. It's not a drastic difference, but noticeable. I think I used to fill up about every 2 weeks, but after the lift I am filling up every 12-14 days. Hope this helps and I am off to bed, talk to you later.

 

Yeah I guess I can understand the power loss thing your describing. I was told that the bigger tires are what does it, and not necessarily the lift. I was toying with the idea of just getting 33's like 1muddytruck has, but then paying all that $ to go from a 32" to a 33" doesnt hardly seem worth it. My truck has lifetime tire allignment at tires plus, suppose they'll still honor that after I lift my truck??

Yeah... I already got my exhaust done, and I went with true dual straight pipes after 3.5" high-flow cats, then when I thought about headers, I was told that Id have to run shorty headers and I wouldnt notice the big of a difference for the cost, so I just did new manifolds myself. And Im really happy with it for the most part. Times it can be tooo loud if thats imaginable.