Earlier today I got in my truck and turned the key to start it. I got the usual sound of the fuel pump priming, but when I turned it to the point that it usually starts, nothing happened. I ended up turning it to the point where it stop before it started. I made a couple of stops at places, and each time I tried to turn the truck on, I'd have to turn the key a couple times before I could get the ignition to engage. When I hit it just right, it starts fine, no chugging or hesitation.

Does this sound like a ignition cylinder problem, or ignition switch problem? If so, how difficult is it to replace those parts?

1989 Ford F-150 P/U. 5.0L EFI 2wd.

 

I wouldn't rule the switch out, but suggest there may other more likely possibilities. If the ignition key cylinder is rolling over - would rule that out.

Check for 12V on the starter relay coil wire mounted on the passenger side fender, when the key is in the Start position. If 12V is present, it's the relay, or perhaps even the starter if you're hearing the relay pull in. If 12V not present, then have to go back upstream in the circuit.

Another thought - may be the neutral switch on the transmission if auto, on the clutch if manual.

Ignition key cylinder isn't too difficult to change - recommend to get a shop manual - Chilton's, Haynes, etc. to guide you through the process. These have wiring diagrams as well.

The ignition switch is located on the steering column down by the brake pedal. There's a rod that goes from the ignition lock cylinder, down to this switch. It's a challenge to get at.

Also, for future note, there's a pot metal horseshoe-looking part attached to the ignition cylinder that connects to the long rod going down to the switch. These are known to fail - the key will just roll over with a completely different feel than normal - with little resistance.

 

Wde3477, you wouldn't happen to know what that little horseshoe shaped thing is called would you?

So I went outside, and just on a whim, adjusted the steering wheel so it was all the way up. The key turned and the truck started normally. I put the steering wheel back down, and now the key turns to the point it stops, and does nothing.

Any ideas?

 

The Chilton's book refers to it as an actuator - have an upper and a lower but the picture isn't very clear on which is which.

As far as I know it's a dealer-only part - and any parts guy that has been there awhile will know exactly what you're after.

It's sounding more like the problem is in the upper part of the steering column.

 

Okay, so I tried to start my truck after I got off work. I turned the key, fuel pump primes, dash lights come on, I turn the key further to start it, and again it goes until it stops. This time, tilting the steering wheel didn't do anything. The dash lights would dim like they normally would when I start it, but nothing happened. I tried a couple more times, and actually ended up breaking the ignition cylinder. Crud. I took that out, and tried sticking a screwdriver in the slot in the steering column, but I wasn't able to turn anything, so I'm hoping that means nothing is broken in there.

Is it possible for the ignition cylinder to go bad in these things, and if so, can that cause it to not start?

 

I've been through a problem with an actuator. I bought an 87 f150 from my brother. He had taken the cover off the steering column and was cranking the truck with a pair of pliers. I believe he put a new part in and it didn't last very long. The track that the actuator slides in wore down and it seemed to get in a bind.

To fix my truck I removed the part and found that the long shaft or plunger had broken off the horseshoe. I drilled a small hole through the horseshoe where the part had broken. I used a piece of key steel (1/4 inch probably available at a machine shop) to replace the section that broke off. I rounded the end off about 3/8 inch down the shaft of the key steel to fit into the hole. I took a small hammer and bradded the rounded end over. It had enough flexibility to move through the slot without binding. It was still working when I sold the truck about 6mths later. By the time I sold it, I had located a steering column without the tilt, but hadn't installed it.

Just an idea that worked for me.

Also, if you take the cover off the steering column you should see a plunger wire about the size of a coat hanger in diameter. If I remember correctly, this is the setup to activate the ignition switch that is located lower on the column. I have not been into that part on an f150, but some of them I have dealt with are adjustable. If nothing else is hindering it, you should be able to push the plunger to activate the switch. This may give you some direction in isolating the problem.

 

Ugh..not what I wanted to hear, especially since it's stuck back at work right now. Guess I'll have to see if I can locate an actuator as well as an ignition cylinder.

 

Have most of you had to use a steering wheel puller, or does it usually come off with a bit of jimmying?

 

I used a wheel puller. No luck with getting it off otherwise here. Plus - didn't want to jimmy around and screw up something inside - I imagine those electric parts fabbed out of plastic would be a real chore to replace.

 

It's been a few years since I tore into mine, but I believe I pulled the wheel using a puller. There are several things that could be damaged if you are not careful.

There are 2 functional parts in the key/ignition system, if I see it correctly, the lock cylinder mechanism and the actual ignition switch. The other parts make the two work together.

Your description sounds like the lock cylinder broke inside. That part is replacable as a unit.

The cover I mentioned is the two piece plastic cover that is behind the steering wheel. There should be a couple of screws to connect it together. On the tilt models I believe it comes out in 2 sections. My brother had taken that cover off and used a pair of pliers to push the plunger rod to move the switch and get your truck home. The big question is whether or not you can unlock your wheel. You may have to replace the lock cylinder first. The actual ignition switch is a plastic part, usually black.

Good luck.

 

Well, I bought a new lock cylinder, put that in, and had the same problem. No start. Of course, it was then that I noticed that I could no longer shift it out of Park either. I thought about it for a bit, and I decided that it probably wasn't the best idea to start tearing into my steering column while my truck was still sitting at work. So I ended up having my truck carried over to a shop, where they'll hopefully sort out the problem. I thank you gentlemen for the info, and will post back when I find out what the problem was.

 

Did you ever get that fixed and what was replaced to solve the problem?
roltech

 

I just went through that last weekend, you need steering wheel puller. The pot metal half horse shoe is the "ignition actuator arm" and the rod that goes down the column is the "ignition actuator rod". The "arm" has a guide on it that goes into a square slot in the column, when that guide breaks it falls down the slot past the notch in the arm and stops a column shift from being able to move, I had to tear apart my entire upper column to fish that tiny piece of pot metal out so I could shift. When the guide from the actuator arm breaks off your ignition actuator arm no longer moves straight forward pushing the actuator rod down the column to the switch and keep it in a run and idle position. It is not bad but you will have to break the column down to pulling the two pins for your tilt to make enough room to get the new actuator arm in. I know it's a bit late, but hope it helps in the future. The whole ordeal only took two hours of actual work time.
Brian

 

Hi
1995 302
I spent about 300. 150 for the links than 150 for a new lock
one year later.

The next year after a screw fell on my foot.
I found none of the work was as it should be,
(two full turns to tighten the one still there).
(about 8 turns to replace the one that had fallen out).
From certified FORD.

I know one thing.
My life depends on a "servce rep",
If I cannot depend on that person "I am dead".

THINK ABOUT IT
wrong100

 

roltech,

Geez, I forgot about this post. I ended up taking it into a shop, and they replaced the ignition actuator. Turns out the old one had broken. Everything is working fine now. Cost was $90, which was much less than I expected.