I was on the highway, when I had a sudden lack of power. I pulled off and limped into the gas station. I figured it was a bad fuel pump, so I switched to the other tank. That was a little better, and was able to make it home. I figured it couldn't be fuel pump if the symptoms were the same using either tank. The truck drives better than the first lack of power (or maybe I'm used to it now). I had one code: 542-fuel pump secondary circuit failure: PCM to Ground (I don't know how to fix this code). Help? please.

Truck idles poorly, stalls sometimes at stop signs, and shimmers/lopes at cruising speeds. It 'pings' when accelerating uphill. It feels like I am dragging an anchor behind me sometimes.

I changed the plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Still bad. New EGR valve, EVP sensor, IAC sensor. Still bad. Checked all the vaccuum lines and connecters to the injectors. Looked for vaccuum line to the transmission, but there isn't one on the E4OD.

 

Got the injectors cleaned today. Still bad. Anyone experiencing the same problems? Any ideas?

I guess it could be the EEC (PCM). Before I replace that, I was curious if anyone thought it might be something else.

 

There is a fuel pump circuit error.........does this not mean there is a fuel pump issue?

 

Not to sound mean, but you got a fuel pump circuit error code, and instead you're fixing all these other things that were fine and ignoring the fuel pump system, the most likely culprit? If you don't know how to fix it, which is understandable, then look into it, don't just throw enough crap at the wall and hope something will stick. You're just wasting your time and effort.

Yes, it's not the easiest thing to fix (wiring issues are always tricky) and fuel pumps tend to be pricey. But it might not be the pump. It basically means there's a short or poor ground somewhere in the pump's power line. Meaning the pump is either running slowly or intermittently, resulting in low fuel pressure, resulting in poor performance. There's a pump in each tank, and equally bad performance on either indicates that it is most likely NOT the pumps, but a voltage issue.

There's some way with "the paper-clip method" to clear the code, but the light will just come on again if it wasn't fixed. You can pick up a EECIV code scanner at AutoZone for $19 that reads and clears and has a few other diagnostic tricks as well.

A good and easy first step is to trace all the main grounds off the (-)battery post. Find where the wad of wires bolts to the frame. It may look fine, but 9 times out of 10 on older trucks it's corroded to hell underneath, which can lead to all sorts of wonky issues. Separate the eyes and brush off the corrosion. Put some dielectric grease(petroleum jelly works too) between them and rebolt it. There's several in the engine bay, the location varies with motor and model but none are difficult to get at or find. My truck had an issue with the starter running very, very slowly and sometimes not at all. It fried the starting relay before I traced it to a corroded ground. Cleaned it up, good as new.

 

Thanks RaWarrior. I will try to find any bad grounds from the battery. I'll have time this Saturday to look at it.

More background: Initially, when I got the codes from the computer, I had codes for EGR out of read. etc. (none of these were Hard codes and I changed the EGR valve anyway) The other stuff is just good maintenance stuff (plugs/wires/etc/injector cleaning). Other opinions (i've been reading the forums) regarding vaccuum lines, i investigated. I cleared the codes by leaving the battery disconnected. I didn't get another code for a long time. Then the 542 code came (only once-ever). I removed the wiring harness to the EECiv and put it back on. I cleared the codes again. That was at least a week ago. I have no codes right now.

I took it to the Ford dealership about a month ago. They could not find anything wrong with the truck, but told me it was most likely the IAC sensor. So I changed it. The dealer wasn't very helpful. They don't see very many older trucks.

 

Cleaned battery posts/wires with wire brush. Found 4 ground wires from the PCM; removed/cleaned/ no rust at at (just anit-rust goo). Truck runs better, Voltmeter indicates slightly higher volts.

However, I still have the stalling issue. At a near stop, I give a slight bit of gas and then take my foot off the gas - The RPM dives to near stall, and the Voltage meter dives down too.

My truck has 120K kilometers on it, and not a speck of rust. But because I am frustrated now, I actually visited the dealership and am ready to buy a new Ranger. I don't want to go into winter with an unreliable vehicle.

 

I see no mention of changing the fuel filter. If you haven't changed it, I would try that. Also try putting a container of fuel injector cleaner in one of the gas tanks, even though you had the injectors cleaned.

 

I changed the fuel filter. Sorry I didn't mention that. Yes, I have been using a fuel injector cleaner in the tank.

Also, someone mentioned that I shouldn't be running my gas tanks completely dry (which I have been doing), as that is not good for the fuel pumps. They said I might have equally damaged both pumps. They said a product from Lucas called 'fuel system lubricant' might work. Yesterday, I filled both tanks with premium and added a good dose of this 'lubricant'. Maybe that will work.

Thanks to everyone who is adding their comments. I appreciate it. I like my old truck, and know that it has lots of years left in it, if I fix this little problem.

 

Handy tool for you to buy would be an EFI fuel pressure gauge. Then check the pressure on the fuel rail.

Adrianspeeder

 

Ya, running the tanks totally dry (as in until the motor coughs or dies) before switching is not a great idea. Any crap in the tank will get sucked up by the pump when it reaches the very bottom, which can partially clog the pump. Over time it causes more load on the motor, and can result in failure. The pumps are also not designed to run dry, so even a few seconds of dry running can be detrimental.

Not that it really matters, but running premium fuel will have absolutely zero benefits in a motor designed for regular 87, in a stock truck you are just spending and extra $2 at every fill up.

Pour-in fixes are kinda hit-or-miss. Whenever I try one it either works great and fixes the problem, or has no noticeable effect at all.

Try the fuel pressure test too. I think there's a schraeder valve under there somewhere where the kit taps into. Haven't been around there in a while, I don't remember exactly where it is.

 

There is a TSB on www.alldata.com for Engine - Intermittent Stalling/ Miss/ Stumble/ No start. It says there may be wires grounding out between the PCM and The ICM. There is a process the find and repair and bad wires. I will give it a try this weekend. No Fuel pressure test yet - $80 for the pressure tester, and The ford Shrater is a special size.

 

Pulled away the foil and inspected the "Y" btw the PCM and ICM. No bare wires were found. Rewrapped, etc. No Change in operation. Truck still stalls occasionally at Idle/ stumbles,etc.

 

New symptom to consider, which I hadn't really noticed before. Once the engine is warmed up and running fine, I turn on everything electrical (fan, radio,etc) This causes a power drain, and the truck starts to stall out. I wonder if the problems I am having could be a weak alternator?