Power windows on a 92
#1
Power windows on a 92
I just bought this truck on Friday. I knew the power windows didn't work. They are both out, and I was wondering if there were any common problems. I would hate to take everything apart for an easy fix. The power locks work in the same switch, and the fuse tested good. Thanks for any help.
Mike
Mike
#3
Still trying
I am still trying to sort this out. I got side tracked a little with cleaning, and polishing. It is actually cleaning up nicely.
Is there a relay that I can't find? The guy didn't tell me much except that the windows quit at the same time. That doesn't sound like the motors to me? I don't know. I am new to Ford's and need to get the window's working. AC doesn't, and I am not going to fix that.
Thanks,
York
Is there a relay that I can't find? The guy didn't tell me much except that the windows quit at the same time. That doesn't sound like the motors to me? I don't know. I am new to Ford's and need to get the window's working. AC doesn't, and I am not going to fix that.
Thanks,
York
#6
Originally Posted by adrianspeeder
Ok, do the motors run at all and the windows don't move? Or is everything dead from both switches?
Adrianspeeder
Adrianspeeder
What do you think?
#7
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
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Click the black Bronco in my signature & look thru the Doors album. The door window motors are identical to a Bronco tailgate motor, so look in the Tailgate Tech album, also.
Yes, you'll probably need a 3/8" drill to get to the bolt heads for the motor. There are dimples in the sheet metal indicating where to drill, and you only have to drill 2 of them because the 3rd is exposed.
But before doing that, pull the motor connector & test the wires for voltage when you work the switch. It should be full battery voltage, and it should reverse polarity when you reverse the switch direction. If that passes, put a test light across the wires & retest.
Yes, you'll probably need a 3/8" drill to get to the bolt heads for the motor. There are dimples in the sheet metal indicating where to drill, and you only have to drill 2 of them because the 3rd is exposed.
But before doing that, pull the motor connector & test the wires for voltage when you work the switch. It should be full battery voltage, and it should reverse polarity when you reverse the switch direction. If that passes, put a test light across the wires & retest.