89 ford valve adjustment

[coloredred]

I was checking out the chiltons manual. It says to mark balancer with 3 equally spaced marks and to ajust valve using these marks. Anyone use this procedure?

[PKRWUD]

Yes, it's simple. You apparently have a 4.9L I6, yes? Make a mark on the front of the balancer at TDC, and two more marks 120 degrees in each direction from the TDC mark. Remove the valve cover. With #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, adjust both valves for cylinder #1. Rotate the engine until the next mark comes up, and adjust both valves for cylinder #5. Rotate till the next mark, and do #3, etc, etc. The order to do them in is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

[coloredred]

I got my heads back from the machine shop. I didn't mark the rocker arm as recommended by chilton's manual. The machine gave me my parts back in a box. I don't really have a choice in which order i put them back on. Anyone ever have bad luck by not following this procedure? As long as i adjust the valve per specification truck should still run, right?
Thanks for any response
Sam

[Nathan Plemons]

It'll still run. The idea is that all of the parts have kinda worn in together. You might get a little bit more wear on the parts as they wear into their new location, but technically it will run.

[coloredred]

Going by the manual again. One book says i need to compress the lifters all the way down to do valve adjustment. The other has no mention. Which is right? Where can i buy this valve tool?
Thanks again
Sam

[coloredred]

After two years of sitting in the yard the "Whitey" started back up. I found out, I should of drain gas tank of old gas. Its a strong suspect of what cause the push rods to bend. Also since i couldn't find a tappet bleed tool I just torque the rocker arm to 23 ft. lbs. I don't know if i should if i have the right clearances for valves but i took the chance it would be ok. It started up although i need a new battery now. thanks to all for your input.
Sam