Oil pan and rear gas tank replacements
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Oil pan and rear gas tank replacements
I've been told I'll have to raise the engine up to replace the oilpan. I was hoping I could just drop the crossmember since I don't have an engine hoist.
I've also been told I'll have to pull the bed to replace the rear tank (18 gallon). Again, I was hoping I could do it from the bottom.
I'm probably going with a ford oil pan since I can get one for the same price as aftermarket. But I was thinking about an aftermarket tank, as they are half of a ford tank. Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket fuel tanks?
I've also been told I'll have to pull the bed to replace the rear tank (18 gallon). Again, I was hoping I could do it from the bottom.
I'm probably going with a ford oil pan since I can get one for the same price as aftermarket. But I was thinking about an aftermarket tank, as they are half of a ford tank. Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket fuel tanks?
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Yes, I did it from the bottom. You might need a helper to unplug wires and lines. To pull the bed off you'll need 4+ helpers, them things are heavy.
I checked for leaks and rust almost monthly for about a year after the install. All was good. Make sure you get a new fuel pump O-ring and take good care of your sender and float as you swap things over.
My spare tire hanger and crap was all rusty. I ended up cutting all that off because I knew if I got a flat in the winter it would be impossible to get the spare down. So I kept the spare in the bed. If yours isn't all rusty you might as well keep it all there. A full size spare takes up a lot of room in the bed. The crank mechinisms are cheap to replace also, $40-ish bucks I think.
Both tanks are a tight squeez, and obviously are easier to work with when empty.
I checked for leaks and rust almost monthly for about a year after the install. All was good. Make sure you get a new fuel pump O-ring and take good care of your sender and float as you swap things over.
My spare tire hanger and crap was all rusty. I ended up cutting all that off because I knew if I got a flat in the winter it would be impossible to get the spare down. So I kept the spare in the bed. If yours isn't all rusty you might as well keep it all there. A full size spare takes up a lot of room in the bed. The crank mechinisms are cheap to replace also, $40-ish bucks I think.
Both tanks are a tight squeez, and obviously are easier to work with when empty.