Hi All,

I went to start my 5.0L '95 F150, and it will not turn over. I do not think it is the battery. When the key is turned to the start position, there is a single click, and that's all. The lights don't dim whatsoever, and all the power options seem to work fine. However, I did try to jump it, but no luck - just the single click, as if a solenoid is engaging. I am supposing the starter may need to be replaced, but thought I would put it out here for any other advice. While the truck is used infrequently (1 or 2x weekly) it was just used yesterday, with no hint of trouble.

And, if it is the starter, is it difficult to replace on a 5.0? How much might I expect to pay to have it replaced?

I also posted this in the "Engines" forum, in the main forum area.

Thanks.

 

My 88 was 30 minutes, and the 92 was bout 45 minutes, but that is a stick. Are you sure you have a good ground?, no bad cables?, can you have someone look at a meter on the battery while you turn the key?

Adrianspeeder

 

Thanks for the reply.

Where would I look for the good ground? At the battery? What is that behind the battery - a solenoid or relay of some sort? Look there?

I don't have a meter to put on the battery. If I got one, what kind? What would I be looking for if I used it?

The last starter I changed was on my '60 Impala 283, and it seemed pretty straightforward - a couple of bolts and the wires. Are we talking the same kind of thing to change a starter nowadays? Basically a motor which turns the flywheel?

Thanks!

 

It will change out about the same way as your '60 Impala 283'.
It is a little smaller than the old ones.
The item behind the battery is a solenoid but in the 95 it is used more like a relay as there is another solenoid on the starter like the Impala had.
If your headlights do not dim when you turn the key to the start position your battery is OK and if everything else works your ground is probably OK also.
I think you may have a bad starter if the above checks out.
Yes it still turns the flywheel.

 

Subford,

Thanks for the reply. I am almost certain that it is the starter. I had an issue with my Bonneville recently. It acted more like a dead battery (no sound at all when trying to start, but yet all the power equipment worked fine), but it ended up being the ignition switch anti-theft feature - wires were just worn out.

Difference here is the very obvious single click when the key is turned to start, as if the solenoid is trying to engage something (starter) which doesn't want to work.

Looking at the engine from the top (and I like the fact that there is a lot of room to work) I can't see the starter on either side. So I am guessing the starter is accessed from below and will be attached to the flywheel housing. Is it on the driver's or passenger's side?

I notice you also drive a '95 F150. Does yours also have the 5.0 motor with the 4R70W transmission? Mine is high miles - over 220,000 - and is now enjoying a quiet retirement. It has only one main job now - to pull my little 8' popup camper, plus the occasional run to The Home Depot. I've had it for 7 months now; paid $500 for it, and this (starter) is really the first hint of trouble.

Let me ask you this: when traveling at interstate speeds - say 60-70mph - why would the transmission engage overdrive, even on the slightest grade? It just drops into OD, and then drops out. I can minimize this if I don't engage cruise control, but not completely eleminate it. I don't drive it hard at all. But I worry that something is wrong with the transmission. The truck does have _slightly_ oversize tires (265 vs. 235) and a 3:08 rear end. This happens whether I am towing or not.

Otherwise, the F150 runs like a dream! I love it.

Thanks,

 

Starter is accessed from under the truck on the passenger side on the tranny bell housing Undo cable, remove two bolts, don't let it fall on your face. (missed me by an inch...). Before this, I would invest in a simple multimeter. Nothing fancy is needed and I have several from 400dollars (really nice fluke) down to 3dollars (harbor freight special). The harbor freight special is fine for what you have to do, or you can pay a few bucks more if you want.

Ground...

Follow the neg (-) battery cable and make sure it is in good condition. Not sure on the 95s, but it should go to the block somewhere, and then to the frame. If these are bad, you might not get enough amps to turn the starter. Even with the above symptoms. A multimeter in continunity mode would find the amount of resistance in ohms of the cable and connections which tells go or nogo

Positive...

Follow the red (+) wire. It should go right to a little "can" with posts on it. That is your first starter relay/solinoid. Basicly a big ole switch that sends power down to the starter. A quick way to find if it is bad is to put the tranny in PARK, key ON, and use a big ole screwdriver to jump the terminals. If the starter engages and the engine fires, pull the screwdriver away, and you found your problem.

Adrianspeeder

 

Adrianspeeder,

Boy, this brings back the memories!

On the same '60 Impala - prior to changing the starter - I had to turn the key to run, then open the hood, take a screwdriver, and use it to jump the terminals on the solenoid to start the car. It was intermittent, but I went through this routine for over a year! Trouble was, the solenoid was attached to the starter, so I had to reach way down to start the motor. The Impala was my very first car, and I loved that thing. I always thought the starting routine gave it character! (Or so I tried to tell myself!)

Thanks for the tips and the stroll down memory lane!

John

 

It is on the passenger's side, accessed from below and is attached to the flywheel housing.

Make sure that the cable that runs from the solenoid to the starter has good connections at each end. Also that the POS cable from your battery has a good connection at the solenoid.

The solenoid could also be bad, just because it clicks will not mean that it is a good solenoid, it could have bad contacts inside.

Do the above before changing the starter.

"Does yours also have the 5.0 motor with the 4R70W transmission?" YES

Why would the transmission engage overdrive, even on the slightest grade?
oversize tires (265 vs. 235) and a 3:08 rear end
Its going into 3rd gear on the hills and if need be 2nd gear. The same as if you put the peddle to the floor.

Anyway here is how to change the starter.
Starter Motor


Removal

WARNING:
WHEN SERVICING STARTER MOTOR (11001) OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER MOTOR, NOTE THAT THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID (11390) IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. MAKE SURE THE PROTECTIVE CAP IS INSTALLED OVER THE TERMINAL AND IS REPLACED AFTER SERVICE.

1. NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.

Disconnect the battery negative cable.

2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

3. CAUTION: When disconnecting hardshell connector at S-terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off. Do not pull on wire. Be careful to pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S-terminal. If any part of the connection is damaged, replace the damaged components.

Disconnect starter cable and push-on connector from starter solenoid.

4. Remove upper bolt.

5. Remove lower bolt.


Installation

1. Position starter motor to engine and install upper and lower bolt finger-tight.

2. Tighten the upper bolt to 20-27 N-m (15-20 lb-ft).

3. Tighten the lower bolt to 20-27 N-m (15-20 lb-ft).

4. Be sure that heat shield is properly positioned over starter solenoid. Connect connector on starter solenoid. Be careful to push straight on and make sure connector locks in position with a notable click or detent.

5. Install starter cable nut to starter terminal. Tighten to 9-14 N-m (80-124 lb-in).

6. Replace red safety cap.

7. Lower vehicle to floor.

8. Connect battery negative cable.


I hope this helps and good luck.

 

Here is also the schematic of the circuit.

 

The ground cable on these is a known problem area. It corrodes thru at the intermediate ground point on the chassis. It will pass enough current to run the lights, etc. but it cannot pass the 600 or so amps that the starter draws.

 

Thanks. So I would just follow the ground from the battery to where it is attached on the chassis? I understand there may be a stop at the engine, then down to the chassis, right? This sounds fairly easy to check.

Thanks!

 

No. The ground runs from the battery to the chassis to the engine where it terminates at the starter flange. The cable tends to rot out at the midpoint where it attaches to the chassis.

 

Ok. I'm on it!

I will check the ground cable before I do anything else to the truck.

Thanks for the tip.

 

You cant allways see if the cable is bad from the outside, but take a lookie anyway.

Adrianspeeder

 

Uhoh...

Are you saying the cable might be corroded and bad in the sheath? I guess I was thinking about the connectors, not the cable itself. How can I check for that? I have no meters.

Thanks for the input