How to get trouble codes? Switch on/off??
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03-09-2005, 06:18 PM
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#2
03-10-2005, 09:47 AM
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Jim -
Seems like the dealer should have taken care of this before it left the lot, since you just bought it.
I would try disconnecting the battery first to reset everything, and then see if you still have the check engine light. I like you am new to the forum and to the F150. But in the little time i have been here, I have never heard of troubleshooting codes using the ignition switch. They always say to hook it up to read the codes. I have read where places like AutoZone will read the codes for you. I hope you have one near you.
Good Luck!
John
Seems like the dealer should have taken care of this before it left the lot, since you just bought it.
I would try disconnecting the battery first to reset everything, and then see if you still have the check engine light. I like you am new to the forum and to the F150. But in the little time i have been here, I have never heard of troubleshooting codes using the ignition switch. They always say to hook it up to read the codes. I have read where places like AutoZone will read the codes for you. I hope you have one near you.
Good Luck!
John
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03-10-2005, 09:50 AM
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#4
03-10-2005, 10:05 AM
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Originally posted by NCCamper2003
Jim -
Seems like the dealer should have taken care of this before it left the lot, since you just bought it.
Jim -
Seems like the dealer should have taken care of this before it left the lot, since you just bought it.
They tried. They didnt have the correct plug on thier test equipment ( thier a Chevy/Chrylser dealership ).
Being that this is the older syle, the Ford dealership I stopped at needed me to leave it , which I didnt have time to do.
But in the little time i have been here, I have never heard of troubleshooting codes using the ignition switch. They always say to hook it up to read the codes. I have read where places like AutoZone will read the codes for you. I hope you have one near you.
Good Luck!
John
Good Luck!
John
There should be a way to do the ignitoin switch test. Most older vehicles can, even Cadillac's have them.
#5
03-10-2005, 10:12 AM
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Originally posted by cleat
Just go and buy a cheap code reader. They are inexpensive and come with instructions for test as well as a listing of what the codes mean. Good investment.
Just go and buy a cheap code reader. They are inexpensive and come with instructions for test as well as a listing of what the codes mean. Good investment.
I'll keep looking...
Thanx
#6
03-10-2005, 02:37 PM
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All the early fords had the plugs under the hood there are two plugs one sort of triangular one and one single wire one. The readers I can get on sale for around $25.00 CDN. You can fiddle with jumper wires but put one in the wrong spot and fry the ecm and you will be out lots of money and be without a truck for a while.
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03-10-2005, 02:42 PM
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#8
03-10-2005, 08:33 PM
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The key on/off three times are for chrysler vehicles.
You can get the codes from these with either a voltmeter or engine light by placing a jumper between 2 harness's under the hood. Haynes manuals have the procedure.
I would post how to do it,but you need to look at the pictures to identify the test and ecm harness.
You can get the codes from these with either a voltmeter or engine light by placing a jumper between 2 harness's under the hood. Haynes manuals have the procedure.
I would post how to do it,but you need to look at the pictures to identify the test and ecm harness.
#9
03-10-2005, 10:08 PM
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Originally posted by drown021
The key on/off three times are for chrysler vehicles.
You can get the codes from these with either a voltmeter or engine light by placing a jumper between 2 harness's under the hood. Haynes manuals have the procedure.
I would post how to do it,but you need to look at the pictures to identify the test and ecm harness.
The key on/off three times are for chrysler vehicles.
You can get the codes from these with either a voltmeter or engine light by placing a jumper between 2 harness's under the hood. Haynes manuals have the procedure.
I would post how to do it,but you need to look at the pictures to identify the test and ecm harness.
This is supposed to be for 81-95. Not for EEC-V, DI 7.3L Turbo Diesel & Villager.
#10
03-10-2005, 11:06 PM
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Hi, my Check Engine Light comes on every once in a while--more frequently I might add. This diagram seems correct--I am although unsure as to the components needed and my skill level--I am sure my mechanic could look at this quickly. my manual is vague as to what this light could mean--any guesses?
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03-11-2005, 11:00 AM
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#13
03-12-2005, 11:30 AM
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according to the manual you should first warm the vehicle up.
Then shut it off.
1)Then it states to place the jumper and then turn the ignition to run without starting it.
2)you can also start it if you want to check for codes with the engine running.
It says you will have either 2 or 3 digit codes.
Pauses between digits will be 2 seconds where as pauses between codes will be 4 seconds.
I have the list of codes also.
Hope that helps.
Then shut it off.
1)Then it states to place the jumper and then turn the ignition to run without starting it.
2)you can also start it if you want to check for codes with the engine running.
It says you will have either 2 or 3 digit codes.
Pauses between digits will be 2 seconds where as pauses between codes will be 4 seconds.
I have the list of codes also.
Hope that helps.
#14
03-12-2005, 02:33 PM
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Thanx much Drown021.
My results:
332
EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
Mine was a memory code.
I bought a new EGR valve ( $60 ). I will check to see if I can just clean some carbon out of the old one before I install the new one. I'll also check to make sure I've got a good vacuum on the one vac line that goes to it.
My results:
332
EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
Mine was a memory code.
I bought a new EGR valve ( $60 ). I will check to see if I can just clean some carbon out of the old one before I install the new one. I'll also check to make sure I've got a good vacuum on the one vac line that goes to it.
