I own a 90 F150 S-Cab with a 302, auto, and dual fuel tanks. The problem is that for some reason my fuel gauge stopped registering for the front tank, but it stills registers for the rear tank. Has anyone else ever had this problem, and if so how'd you fix it. Also, if anyone knows where I could get a couple of door lock actuator motors pretty cheap, I would appreciate that also.

 

my rear tank doesn't register and my front tank does. My solution? I run on the rear tank. When it's empty I switch over and start looking for fuel.

 

Thats what I have been doing, but I still want to have both of them working. I hate guessing how much gas is in the front tank after the rear runs low.

 

Yeah, I'd like the solution, too. Just playing a little on a Friday afternoon.

 

I've had the same problem with my 1995 F150 5.8L w/ Dual Tanks. The front won't register but the rear works fine. It's been driving me crazy as well and I've finally decided to go to the dealer, I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

My rear fuel gauge floats around but the front tank works fine.

 

Sounds to me like you each have a bad sending unit in one tank.

 

How much would I expect to spend on a new sending unit, including install?

 

Part #FOTZ9A299BA is the sending unit, and Ford lists it for $37.31. Average labor time to install is under two hours.

 

Thanx for the help. I'll have to put this on the list of things to do to the truck along with power door lock motors, valve cover gaskets, AC compressor, paint, and exhaust.

 

Please post when you have installed it to give us a heads up on how complicated this thing is.
Thanks,

 

If you already a DIYer then you probably have the ability to install new sending unit, its not that hard/complicated should you choose to do it. JMO!

If you can lift bed then you dont have to drop tank. I dropped rear tank from below & did it by myself. Less gas in tank = easier drop/reinstall.

Disconnect filler neck & straps or ? that hold tank. When lowering enough you'll be able to easily disconnect wires etc. on top of tank. I used alittle hyd. jack etc. to hold tank so it didnt drop on my face , only about gal. gas, so tank not that heavy.

OK, now you got tank on ground & looking at it, right? You'll see the fitting on top that has to be turned to remove unit. I used a brass drift, no sparks (actually brass water pipe fitting) & hammer to loosen. This was an 88 F250 4X4, but imagine would be same on yours?

Pump/sending unit come out together. Even thou f.p. was ok, I replaced it at same time as s.unit, due to age/mi. Got from local FMC parts dept. So, just install in reverse order. After you reconnect wires etc before final install of tank, go turn on ing. key (dont start e.) As I recall the f. guage showed full or ? dont recall exactly, but indicated it getting a signal from s.unit. Be sure its switched to r. tank when doing that test.

Only prob. I had on mine w/reinstall was trying to reconnect the filler pipe. Yours maynot have this but mine did. Another hose inside the outside filler hose. I saw it when dropping the tank & quickly realized it might be hard to get back up/in by myself. It was & that was only help I needed to reinstall. Been awhile so may not be explaining exactly, but you'll know.

I backed rear end up on portable ramps which made access/working easier. Just took my time & did ok.

I didn't replace right away as front f. tank guage worked ok. Shortly after I fixed rear, front guage quite.

Anyhow, maybe that helps? If you have it done, it's a straight forward job & should be able to get accurate esitmate $.

Good luck...OT

 

@ japickar

Did this end up working for you and fixing your gage issue? i have a 1995 f 150 doing the same thing.

 

Congratulations - you've resurrected a thread that died 7 years ago!

For everything you need to know about fixing your fuel level sender, read these captions & follow the links in them:

 

I found the sending units for about $50 on ebay under Motorcraft PS19 OR PS20