Rear Axle Seal Replacement - F150online Forums



Rear Axle Seal Replacement

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Old 11-22-2010, 03:32 AM
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Rear Axle Seal Replacement Questions

Well during the summer when my truck was in the shop I found out that my passenger side axle seal was busted. If I can remember right my bearings are ok just the seal. So I have a few questions for you folks.

I'm planning on doing the seal myself. I found two articles on here that are going to help tremendously.

This one from a 2003
http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...nt-2003-a.html

and this one from a 2004
http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...lots-pics.html

Is the article with the 2004 pretty similar to a 2001 F150 4x4? I also know that the 2003 should be identical, cause I know 97-03 are pretty much the same. Should I replace just the busted seal or do both sides since I'm at it?

Also another question:
On one of the steps from the 2003 write up, he says to
Quote:
Put the pinion shaft and bolt back in to prevent the spyder gears from moving without the axles in!!
Does that mean I take pinion shaft and bolt out, then take the c-clips off and take the axle out...then put the pinion shaft and bolt back in the same place so the gears don't move?

That's about the only step I'm some what confused on.

Also I plan on using all OEM parts to do the repair, but I want to add Royal Purple gear oil do you folks recommend that? Or stick to Motorcraft gear oil?

Thanks everyone! Sorry for the long post.

Last edited by |SoCal|Screw; 11-22-2010 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:44 PM
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bump
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:51 PM
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the swap is exactly as the write-ups tell you. all straight forward and easy enough to do.

go ahead and do both sides as well as the bearings while you are in there. it's best to just get it done and have the peace of mind. gear oil is around a hundred bucks alone.

as far as the pinion shaft goes, i think i left mine out during the swap. it is just to make sure the spider gears don't pop out in case the diff spins. keep the truck in drive and don't go banging on the diff in any way and you should be fine but if you're nervous about it, go ahead and just put the pinion shaft back in. no need to bolt it back up at this point or anything.

whatever gear oil floats your boat will do. if you have the limited slip differential ADD FRICTION MODIFIER. I don't care what any of the oils say, you will need the friction modifier in a l/s diff.

hope i answered everything.
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefFX4 View Post
the swap is exactly as the write-ups tell you. all straight forward and easy enough to do.

go ahead and do both sides as well as the bearings while you are in there. it's best to just get it done and have the peace of mind. gear oil is around a hundred bucks alone.

as far as the pinion shaft goes, i think i left mine out during the swap. it is just to make sure the spider gears don't pop out in case the diff spins. keep the truck in drive and don't go banging on the diff in any way and you should be fine but if you're nervous about it, go ahead and just put the pinion shaft back in. no need to bolt it back up at this point or anything.

whatever gear oil floats your boat will do. if you have the limited slip differential ADD FRICTION MODIFIER. I don't care what any of the oils say, you will need the friction modifier in a l/s diff.

hope i answered everything.
How can I tell if I have a LS differential?
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:26 PM
glc
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If the first digit of your 2 digit axle code on the door jamb sticker is a letter, it's LS.
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