Now you may be wondering why the axle deal is on the slide hammer with the bearing. It’s because the seal removal tool was cutting through the rusted seal like a can of tuna and I had to hammer both the bearing and seal together.
I did the only thing I knew to do on the passenger side to get the burrs out. I put a clean rag inside the axle housing past the burrs. Then I turned the air compressor down to like 25 PSI and took a die grinder to it taking the edge off and smoothing them out. I then took another clean rag and kept wiping until I didn’t get any more metal shavings; as I didn’t want them ending up in my gears!
I also scrubbed my diff cover with a scotch brite pad, razor scraper and brake cleaner. Then I painted her black.
I was also tired of the surface rust on my rotor hats. So I painted them as well since I had them off.
Now it’s time to put it all back together. The parts:
I did not have a race driver set, so I did as Quintin advised and just used an old bearing. I also used a block of wood that seem to help as well.
Now you need to clean you diff cover and get all the old sealant off as well as the axle housing it mates to. I cleaned my diff cover bolts as well with brake cleaner.
Now you need to remove the pinion shaft and retaining bolt you put back in (You did put it back in didn’t you?!!!!)
Slide the axles back in and remember to put the C-clips back in. I had a little trouble on the passenger C-clip for some reason. I fiddle with it and eventually got it. Now pull your axles straight out on both sides. Now you reinstall the pinion shaft and pinion shaft retaining bolt.
Put RTV sealant on your diff cover and bolt it up. Some have recommended waiting an hour before adding the gear oil while others advised you could put in right in. I decided to wait an hour as it couldn’t hurt; and it ended up being like 2+ hours as a neighbor came over and we started talking.
My hats look good!
Now just put your rotors back on, then you calipers.
Passenger side installed
With wheels on
Now I will say that the owner’s manual and Haynes manual LIE about fluid capacity. Quintin advised it takes a little over 3 Qts. I thought with his truck being an 04 and mine an 03 something was different. I went by the owner’s manual/Haynes manual. After you convert their PINTS to QUARTS, it is 2.75 Quarts for the rear diff. I put in 3 Qts of Royal Purple 75w140 Synthetic gear oil and it is still not full. It is not coming out of the fill hole and I don’t see it either. I even had to transfer the 3 bottle into one after I got most of it in so I could squeeze more into the diff. That horizontal fill hole SUCKS!!! I went and bought another quart today (1 for the rear and went ahead and bought another one for the front diff I plan on changing today). SO another lesson learned: TRUST Quintin!!!
Another tip: Don’t do this with a 105 heat index like I did yesterday. I got sick at one point and had to take more breaks. Overall it took me about 8-9 hours with trips to the parts store, about an hour lunch break, numerous water/cool down breaks, taking pictures, doing other tasks like painting my rotor hats and diff cover, and clean up.
So I hope this helps-----DirtySCREW