I haven't found any info if you put the gasket maker on both surfaces or just one. Do cooler temps result in slower curing times? Highs are in the sixties. Do you assemble the plate partially onto the rear diff to squeeze out the gasket maker before it cures? I'm using the Permatex black. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I've only put it on the cover. Let it tack up some and then install, only finger tight on the bolts. I let this sit overnight and then tighten the bolts in a 'star' pattern to evenly distribute the seal. I don't tighten to the point where the sealer starts squirting out of the sides, just until I see it on the edge.
It's still hit and miss for me on this too! Sometimes it works, sometimes it leaks!
At least having only the sealer on it makes for easier cleaning of the surface next time!
apply to either the diff or the cover. i think the cover would be easier.
finger tighten bolts until seal starts to squeeze out. let this sit until it sets up then go back and tighten to spec.
__________________ 2002 F150 FX4. Black two tone. Extended cab.
-SI/DO flowmaster catback
-AFE cold air
-EDGE Attitude. Level 2 Custom.
-Headmaster Shorties. One cat for each side.
-305/70R16 ProComp Xterrains-16" American Racing rims.
i use black rtv silicone.. clean both surfaces apply to diff housing.. put cover on and run em down with a 3/8s impact in a star pattern.. say what u want.. i havent had one leak yet...
i use black rtv silicone.. clean both surfaces apply to diff housing.. put cover on and run em down with a 3/8s impact in a star pattern.. say what u want.. i havent had one leak yet...
I ended up using the Permatex black,cleaned both surfaces,applied a generous bead to the cover,reapplied the cover till it just started squeezing out,let it sit for an hour then torqued the bolts and let it set overnight before filling with lube and so far (knock on wood) no leak.
Well I did this and used RP Gear oil .. I heard it already has the friction modifier in it .. I will do a test drive tomorrow .. I went with the real gasket cost me 6.00 at autozone..
__________________
John B
2003 FX4 5.4L K&N Cold Air, and Other Stuff
Owner of
B&R Fire Protection
The reason why a silcone made gasket leaks is because either or both of the surfaces were not cleaned good enough. I have always used "brakecleen" to clean both surfaces before I applied silicone to just one of the surfaces. After I applied the silicone, I tightened the bolts to the proper torque spec and then filled with fluid. I never had one leak if I cleaned it properly.
Well I did this and used RP Gear oil .. I heard it already has the friction modifier in it .. I will do a test drive tomorrow .. I went with the real gasket cost me 6.00 at autozone..
go ahead and add the friction modifier. no other oil manufacturer seems to get the right modifier or not enough in their oils. always best to add ford's friction modifier when the application calls for it.
OMG Cheif FX4 ... I gotta smell that green skunk Stuff again.. It to almost a week do get the smell out of my driveway when I spilled a little on the concrete... Oh well I will put it in .. Better safe than sorry..
__________________
John B
2003 FX4 5.4L K&N Cold Air, and Other Stuff
Owner of
B&R Fire Protection
I've only put it on the cover. Let it tack up some and then install, only finger tight on the bolts. I let this sit overnight and then tighten the bolts in a 'star' pattern to evenly distribute the seal. I don't tighten to the point where the sealer starts squirting out of the sides, just until I see it on the edge.
It's still hit and miss for me on this too! Sometimes it works, sometimes it leaks!
At least having only the sealer on it makes for easier cleaning of the surface next time!
Good luck!
Mitch
i usually do what is said here with cheap rtv, the one time i used "the right stuff" it was a sob to get it back off but did not leak.
let her sit for 15 mins or so til its not just a goo, and finger tighten it. come back the next day sometime and snug em up.
One thing to consider is that the fluid in the rear will continue to slowly drain and can contaminate the sealer. If I ever remove a diff cover again, I'm using a gasket. The synthetic fluid is too expensive to dump and replace again just because the rtv didn't seal properly.
Just use the Permatex, use it nice and heavy around the lip, press it up, and tighten it. If you want it to look neat, get a shop rag and go around the lip a few times from the ooz it produces.
Just wait about 30 minutes, add the gear lube and 5 oz of friction modifier (if you got LS!) and wait about an hour or two for the RTV to really cure well.
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