Not necessarily. Open doesn't mean both won't turn. It means that if one starts slipping, that is the one that will get all power. Also slipping in the front is less likely as this would also require that the rear is spinning freely too, as both diffs turn at the same rate.
Aaron,
Look at your battery in your F150 and look against the firewall. You will see a little solenoid there that has two vaccum lines going into it. It's super easy to take off.
thank you trogdors4x4 and kingfish51. i did a little researchin but still confused. is the IWE and the actuator the same thing. if so that makes sense. the pop i heard came from the passenger side as did the whining sound. so did the gears strip on the actuator side, not allowing it to engage anymore. if so what all do i need to order to replace it. and is there anyway to test and make sure before i go spendin a pile of money on it? don't think the solenoid is the culperate because it was working right before the POP. unless i lost vaccuum and it slammed it out of 4x4.
thank you trogdors4x4 and kingfish51. i did a little researchin but still confused. is the IWE and the actuator the same thing. if so that makes sense. the pop i heard came from the passenger side as did the whining sound. so did the gears strip on the actuator side, not allowing it to engage anymore. if so what all do i need to order to replace it. and is there anyway to test and make sure before i go spendin a pile of money on it? don't think the solenoid is the culperate because it was working right before the POP. unless i lost vaccuum and it slammed it out of 4x4.
The IWE is the hub at the wheel that disengages and engages. The solenoid on the firewall is what sends vacuum to it to disengage. As the default is engaged (what it would be in 4x4), if there is a problem with the solenoid, the IWE will give off a grinding noise because it is engaged when in 2wd. When this happens, if not taken care of it will destroy the hubs.
I have a 2004 4x4 that did the same thing Took it to the dealer It was the shift rod in the t case It was a $600.00 job But i had a ford esp And it cost me $100.00
alright one more question. since the squeeling stopped im assuming that its shot. if so what will i need to replace at the hub? just the actuator or the whole assembly?
The hub is one piece. So if they are shot you will have to replace both hubs. If the solenoid failed causing the problem, then that will have to be replaced also. Or if it is bad vacuum lines, they will have to be replaced.
More than likely you wont need a hub. They are built stout and it would take alot to ruin that. The actuator looks like its built to give out before the hub for ease of changing and probably the cost as well. Replace your IWE solenoid on the passenger firewall and your actuator first. Trust me its very easy to do. Look in the how to forums for TN-F150's thread about changing it. I followed that and got it done in about an hour. An extra pair of hands really helps as well. If I remember correctly the solenoid from my local ford dealer was $60 and the actuator was about $130. Then to get it installed would of been $500 with parts so I saved myself some change there!
yea i was gettin a little confused with the actuator and hub. thank you for the input, i was trying to find this part on tasca ford but they say they don't have any. my local dealership is higher than a girraffes ass on parts so i was lookin for a place that was a little cheaper. kinda workin on a budget. thanks again for all the help.
Aaron you need to call your dealer or another closer to it and give them your vin and they will be able to tell you. Tell them you want part numbers they should give them to you.
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