I have a ford f150, 2004 fx4 with the 4hi and 4lo lights blinking 3 times and then repeating 3 times after awoke longer, what does this mean?

 

I amhaving similar problems with my 2005 FX4, it would not go into 4Hi or Lo, I keep trying every now and then, and one day it does go into 4WH, GREAT!!!!!! now it won't come out of 4WH, so I try putting it into 4WL, it goes in, and now won't come out of LOW. I replaced the shift motor last summer when this happened, and it fixed it for a few days, then stopped going into 4WD, I don't think its the IWE's cause it wouldn't go into 4WD and drove in 2WD no problem, until the ESOF finally did send a signal to the shift motor to change to 4WD.

I think my shift motor is not getting the signal to change. I have also replaced the vacuum solenoid, so that rules that out. My mechanic did say I had no power going tot he shift motor at one point when he was working on it, but then power came back.

 

I had this problem too, and after several days of frustration finally re-checked the switch. And that was where the problem was. It was intermittent, sometimes it would work, other times only some of the contacts would work. I would get the 4X4 to engage but not disengage. Sometimes the indicator light would work, other times it was out when the switch was on.
Hope this helps.

 

your 4x4 is a vacuumed activated system. Tapping your hubs with a hammer may help loosen up a stuck actuator. There is also an electric motor on your transfer case. Mine would hang up when I first got my truck due to that the previous owner never used it. I had to tap the motor a few times and then it started to work. Since then I engage it at least once a week to keep it free. There is a lot of info on the net and probably this site on how to check your vacuumed system for leaks etc. good luck. Cudda

 

Who exactly is your reply directed to? Please note the date of each post.

 

did u ever get it fixed

 

I had a simular problem. Sometimes I would not even get a lite on the dash. I checked the celinoid,vacuume etc. Guess I got lucky. I read on this site that the mecinisims hang up at times and as simple as a tap with a hammer can free them up. Well to my surprise it workeded. I had to climb under the truck a few times but tapping on the front hubs from the inside and on the electric motor on the transfer case. The later I think was my main thing. Just tapping on and around the area on the transfer case would cause it to activate. After several of these it seemed to free up. Now I try to put it in low and Hi range out at my deer camp at least ounce a week to keep it from sticking from non use which I believe was my problem from the start. The fella I bought the trck from never used the 4X4. Good luck. Hope it as easy for you.

 

I got a 05 4x4 base shift on the floor. Everything seems to work. It feels like everything locks in but the front wheels won't pull. I found a vacumme leak n fixed it and it has vacumme but front wheels won't pull

 

Well, It has been cold and snowy. I missed 2 doctors appointments this week.
The truck is on icy road behind the house and does not want to go into 4WD.

Here is what I have done.

I have read the threads on how it works.

Checked the Solenoid. Just electrically. It clicks and thumps with 12V.

The connector plug ALWAYS has 14V DC on it, UNPLUGGED, and all
positions of 4WD switch. Measured with wires stuck down the connector plug.

Disconnecting it (No Vacuum, I guess), still no action.

I dried it out with a hair dryer. Yes, the water pours on it, directly as
the snow melts off the truck.

I pulled and checked with an ohmmeter Fuses mention as important.

Now, my biggest question is WHAT turns on the Lights on the dash?
The Hi, Low 4wd indicators. I would think they would be turned on by
the computer (ECM?). They never turn on.

So, So maybe it is the dash switch? How do you get to it or check it.

So, anyone know what comes first, Lights from the Switch or ECM and then
vacuum taken away for 4WD?

Sounds like the switch is not getting to the system?

Thanks for any info!

Mike, snowed in for 4 days in Crestline, Ca.

 

Check the Solenoid on the firewall for proper operation. If that's working, you need to check your IWE's on each side. Vacuum releases them, so the Solenoid cuts vacuum to lock each side. With no vacuum present the IWE's should be locked and your half shafts should turn with your wheels. Plenty of posts here on IWE problems and how to deal with them.

 

Check this thread out: https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ore-snows.html

I'm betting that a few love taps on your ESOF Motor will wake it up.

 

Thanks for the Reply!

I knew the Solenoid for Vacuum was OK, but I got a new one with the Shield.
The melting snow runs directly on top of the old design.

So, online for $28 and free shipping I got a new Ford one.
There were aftermarket ones for $19. The vacuum lines and
check valves looked great.

Besides changing out the solenoid, I climbed under to look at the
transfer case. There is a big solenoid and a roundish square thingy.

Probably the shift on the fly motor. I wacked everything several times with
a ball-peen.

After 20 times of going in to neutral and switching the 4WD switch,
no action at all. No noises or lights?

So, I am wondering what next?

Thanks
Mike

 

I'd get a test light out and see if you have power to the ESOF Motor. If you do - and it's not shifting the TC - I'd get a new motor. Unfortunately, the motors go all the time. You'd think they'd have figured out how to make one last after all these years.

While you have the test light out, I'd also be tempted to check the ESOF Switch to see if you're indeed sending power to the motor. Remember, the only way you get 4x4 (Hi or Lo) lights on the dash is after the TC successfully shifts.

 

I would like to find out the wiring at the TC.

I am looking for a schematic.

Not sure I can get to the switch on the dash.

I may have a manual somewhere? I am a good troubleshooter, as
have been an electronic engineer for 50 years!

I watched youtube on changing the motor. You have to pull
a bunch of pins out of the connector. Looks like a pain.

About $100 for a Dorman brand motor.

It is cold here and ICY, I already fell a couple of times, so I may wait for a
nice day. Don't ever turn 70 years old!

Thanks again!

Mike

 

I'd stay away from the Dorman products. I've had (and heard) nothing but bad stuff about it.