I have an '04 screw fx4. Only mod's I have done is a HBS 2" level. Really don't want to move up to a Super Duty truck. But my beast isn't hauling them. I hate having to take the O.D. off just to keep from stalling going up hills.

I don't know where to begin with beefing it up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciative.

 

always start with the basic bolt ons like a intake exhaust and programmer. big difference i think thats all ull need!!!!

 

ebay ebay ebay the best place to look

 

since you have no idea, go ahead and do some research before you offer more bad advice...

 

you have larger tires?? if so go back to the stockers while towing...





a re-gear and a custom tune won't hurt anything either

 

In regards to locking out overdrive, its really not a "bad thing" by any standard, you are propably just use to listening to the engine run at a lower rpm, but in all reality, it will make for a pleasant drive (very controlled).

Let me give MHO on a couple of items.....tuners...

With regards to “Chips” and “Tuners”, years ago it was the best that most could do to enhance the ignition timing, fuel curve, transmission shift points, etc. It was (and still is) very important that a person verifies that the “Tuner” is ASE certified in both ECM and Transmission programming and IMHO be have current certification by the OEM whose vehicle you want to modify. There are plenty of persons who advertise their programs to be the best and even offer custom tunes, but in all reality, very few actually have credentials in these areas- but that’s not to say that some of these “geniuses” haven’t really caused damage to a few vehicles- just jump over to flatratetech.com and read just some of the comments from the MSE techs!. Or read.....

BullyDog Tuner
Posted 2/4/13
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...l#post12796183

Roush Dyno Tune
Posted August 26, 2012
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...need-help.html

Edge
http://www.epa.gov/enforcement/air/c...eproducts.html

Perhaps what is equally important is the parameters that can be adjusted are set by the OEM vehicle software…so there is really no “magic” in what they are doing anyway. Now about this new marketing hype that if you have a CAI you need a custom program………….hogwash!!!!!! The OEM software system is designed to adjust the fuel mixture up to 10% (25% on the 2000+ mod engines).......that’s more than enough to handle fuel mixture adjustments up to 7,000 foot elevation change! (for high elevations 8,000+ there are oem software programs for those specific applications) The 5.4 V8 for example if close to stock can only suck in a maximum of 480 cfm and a flat panel filter will flow 500 cfm, there is simply no way any CAI on a relatively stock engine can increase the air flow enough to exceed the ECM’s ability to adjust and maintain the correct fuel mixture. The only reason for the “custom” program to support the CAI is because the design is poor resulting in false readings from the air intake sensors, etc….period! If you look at the dyno charts from many of these supposed HP/TQ increases, they are typically around 5%-7% at peak rpm ranges…….guess what, 5% is a standard deviation even amongst mfg dynos and if you go to this link http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...ceTechTips.pdf the engineers at Ford racing have a article on just exactly how these “tuners” play games with the hp/tq ratings, how calibration can cause misleading dyno results, & some of the “tricks” that are used to gain supposed power increases when in fact, managing your engine….. and the most important item is……these “expert tuners” (at least most) do not have or choose not to test their results (in comparison to the oem intakes) during actual vehicle motion (or simulation- such as a wind tunnel) as the oems do. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with its noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed.

Testand Corporation conducted an ISO standards test on automotive air filters which can be viewed at this link: http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...r-testing.html. All I can say is this explains in detail the reason for

(Arlen) SPICER wrote,

“Now that I am not doing the tests and my objectivity is not necessary, let me explain my motivation. The reason I started this crusade was that I was seeing people spend a lot of money on aftermarket filters based on the word of a salesperson or based on the misleading, incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature. Gentlemen and Ladies, Marketing and the lure of profit is VERY POWERFUL!"

IMHO, if you live near any major city there are excellent tuning specialists with dynos who for the same price (if not less) will tune your vehicle taking into consideration your specific needs including environmental conditions, for your specific vehicle. IMHO, the best bang for the buck!

Changing the diff gears is probably the best $ for power you can get....and typically in the $500 range....for each .25 gear ratio change the rpms change by about 300....so you can get a "feel' of what the end results would be.

If you are comfortable and understand how to tune a vehicle, you can also do this yourself. There are several software programs available, that “Speak Common English” that will allow you to tune your vehicles ECM. One company is HP Tuners, they have a website….they offer two core programs, one for those who are doing dyno tuning and one for the home-garage mechanic (which is priced at about the same as most of the “canned tunes on the market) …this version limits the span of adjustments as a safeguard against doing something outside of the oem scope……basically, keeps you from doing something “too stupid by accident” (grin) and Sniper Delta Force Tuning Software.

 

what size tires are you running?...Install some gears, and get a custom tune...

 

You should not tow in OD anyway, this is very hard on the transmission.

 

Thank you all, for the great replies, and suggestions. I still run stock size tires. on 18" alum. mags. My "blue beast" can haul 2 horses. I haven't beyond an hr. drive away with 2. We will be competing all over Oklahoma. So the less I need to "beef it up" the better.

I think I'm starting with new shocks (need 'em) look into overload springs. Compare a few tuners. Thanks Beechkid. I'll update here, how it goes. lol

 

I don't see why you would be having any issues hauling two horses with the setup you're running. I am lifted on 35's (with 4.56 gears) and can tow 5-7K with ease and no downshifting problems whatsoever.

Do you possibly have 3.55 gears? If you do I wouldnt say change them, but that is the start of a towing issue. Also a custom tuned Gryphon (Edge) Programmer really helps. I used to run an edge and have since upgraded to a Gryphon and noticed a difference between the two, but that isnt to say the edge wasnt a big difference from stock. It's worth the 2-300 IMO.

As for keeping the rear end from sagging with your trailer, look into a Firestone Ride- Rite air bag kit. I have it, and it keeps the rear end from sagging up until you get 8-9K on a tandem 14K bumper pull trailer. They work nicely and are worth the money IMO. Heres a link to my install thread. I think they were around 250. Air Bag Link

Good luck!