Hi guys..

Kinda stuck here.

Here's what I have and what I want to do.

I have a 3 prong switch (Positive, negative, accessory.)
Relay- 4 prong, 85,86,87,30

All I want to do is hook up the manual switch correctly! I cant seem to get any juice to the fan no matter how I hook it up. Fan does work. Already tested. Wondering if I have a bum relay, however, I can hear it switching.

Help!

 

Check out the website The 12 Volt

You can specifically look at the The 12 Volt the relay page.

Your switch will control the coil (lugs 85 and 86) which 'pulls' the high amp circuit. You will only use the switch to open and close the 'coil' circuit. Don't worry about 'accessory' on your switch unless it is a lighted switch.

The lug common '30' will connect with lug 87. Check the diagram on your relay, this shows the circuit at rest.

EDIT:
Do you have voltage on the high amp line supply to lug 30 and to to coil wires?
Is this line ignition switched?

 

Dennis,

Thanks for the reply. The switch I had does have an LED, the line is not ignition switched.

Ill check those diagrams.

 

I bought a similar one from RadioShack. The LED lights 'on' and when current is flowing through it. I had a three lug switch and never used the third conneciton either.

Also the flow goes one way through the LED.

 

Finally was able to get this thing hooked up. I hooked the switch to one side 86, with 85 to ground. 30 went to the fan and 87 was a fused link to the battery. Works like a charm!

Did a 0-60 with my Edge. Dropped .23 seconds to 7.76 seconds. We'll see about the MPG.

Dont 'feel' much of a difference, but numbers dont lie.....

Total cost to me:

$40 for the fan
Switch, wire, and relay- $20.
I'll prolly implement a controller soon, but no rush.

Thanks Dennis..

 

I have the 4.6L and it really is a dog but my MPG went up. I have felt a big difference with all the mods combined on my truck. I have been cruising with the cruise controls on the freeway and long stretches and I was able to manage 18 MPG out of my last tank.

I went over board with the FAL kit and spent $400. You got off MUCH better on the seat of the pants/wallet ,

How big is your single fan and what is the CFM value? The FAL is a dual 15 with 5500 CFM with both running. I am in Texas so I need that cooling, I think.

Since you have the EVO, set the alert on it for the ECT at a temperature setting your comfortable with so if you forget it will flash at you. I am assuming that the fan is manual on only with the single fans, switch and relay as you described.

 

The fan is 16" rated at 2500 CFM setup as a puller. Right now, yes, it is manual only. I agree, I will need to set an alarm. I've been monitoring it by the CHT degree and it hasnt been out of the norm as of yet. Ive heard others say when their fan(s) kick on, the idle goes low for a tad. Ive yet to experience this. Not sure if this is because I only the one, but I do also have an amplifier installed. So far so good.

 

I can undertsand the logic as well in the idle issue but I have yet to experience it as well. The FAL controller is a sort of soft start. It starts at 60% then bumps up as needed to 100%. Mind you as well they are both hooked up to the run at the same time so it would be similar to 2x 60% (or close to it).

How does the 16" fit? I have read others put a smaller fan to kick in with an AC trigger on the homebrews. Maybe be something to think about once you see if the single 16 will be sufficient for your driving and maybe towing. Ont he flip side I read other argue the point of having a second fan for backup purposes. At $40 each, that wouldn't be a bad thought.

 

I was thinking a 14" for the AC, however, I believe the single 16" is sufficient enough specially when I dont tow. So far, I've noticed no abnormal temps even without having a fan. I cant wait to try the pullies and TB.