I think you sold me on the Lincoln fan and the FK35. I want to know one thing though. you said you extended the fan shround on the lincoln fan around 6 inches i think (can't find the post). question is, how did you go about doing that? what's the process? thanks.
You know I did it with a shroud off an old Ford straight six that I found in the junk yard. personally, I wouldnt botther again. the Shroud that come on the Lincoln/Thunderbird is a nice square shape and adding some baffles on either side of the lincoln shroud to close off the gap to the radiator would be the best way... I did that exact thing on my shroud on the left side of the radiator. I still love my mounting brackets and considered making the darn things with instructions to sell to potential interested folks that want to mount the lincoln fan to the F150. I only have two screws holding the whole shroud to the radiator, with no rods going through the fins etc. I will try to take some pictures so you can see it. My upper brackets are in my photos.
The shroud on the Lincoln/thunderbird is easy to make brakets for and either pop rivet them on as I did or use traditional screws and nuts. Mounting the shroud essentially in the middle of the radiator from left to right should be quite sufficient for cooling, heck the darn thing never comes on except when the air conditioning is selected or you are in heavy, hot, stop and go traffic. back to your original questions I used a fiberglass kit from Walmart and part of this other junk shroud and abasically put the two shrouds together on the right side of the radiator. But I wouldnt bother. The Fan is 18inches and the original fan is only 19 inches and the lincoln shroud covers over 75% of the radiator. If you look at my last picture of the gallery under e fans and look closely you will see the extension baffle that reaches the radiator coils. It was some plastic from lawn edging that I had laying around and I painted it black and pop riveted it to the lincoln shroud. This essentially cause the fan to suck all air through the raidiator instead of through the gap that would have been there.
You know I did it with a shroud off an old Ford straight six that I found in the junk yard. personally, I wouldnt botther again. the Shroud that come on the Lincoln/Thunderbird is a nice square shape and adding some baffles on either side of the lincoln shroud to close off the gap to the radiator would be the best way... I did that exact thing on my shroud on the left side of the radiator. I still love my mounting brackets and considered making the darn things with instructions to sell to potential interested folks that want to mount the lincoln fan to the F150. I only have two screws holding the whole shroud to the radiator, with no rods going through the fins etc. I will try to take some pictures so you can see it. My upper brackets are in my photos.
The shroud on the Lincoln/thunderbird is easy to make brakets for and either pop rivet them on as I did or use traditional screws and nuts. Mounting the shroud essentially in the middle of the radiator from left to right should be quite sufficient for cooling, heck the darn thing never comes on except when the air conditioning is selected or you are in heavy, hot, stop and go traffic. back to your original questions I used a fiberglass kit from Walmart and part of this other junk shroud and abasically put the two shrouds together on the right side of the radiator. But I wouldnt bother. The Fan is 18inches and the original fan is only 19 inches and the lincoln shroud covers over 75% of the radiator. If you look at my last picture of the gallery under e fans and look closely you will see the extension baffle that reaches the radiator coils. It was some plastic from lawn edging that I had laying around and I painted it black and pop riveted it to the lincoln shroud. This essentially cause the fan to suck all air through the raidiator instead of through the gap that would have been there.
thanks lenore,
if you think it's not necessary, i'll probably just mount the fan in the middle like you said and see if it's worth the trouble later on to extend the shroud. if you think about it, everyone else who runs dual fans, with the exception of the flex a lites', don't have ANY shroud.
i like your mounting brackets and will probably emulate them. did you use off the shelf parts, or fab the metal yourself? any special tools? i have all kinds of hand tools, but nothing but a vice and a hammer to shape metal.
i'm a little confused when looking for the lincoln fan. some ads say that the later model mark viii's used the 4300cfm fan and that the earlier models, didn't have the same output.
i'm a little confused when looking for the lincoln fan. some ads say that the later model mark viii's used the 4300cfm fan and that the earlier models, didn't have the same output.
that is what the fan looks like, I got mine at a local u pull it. Look at the v-8 powered later model thunderbirds, they have that fan. The blades measure 18 inch and make sure to cut the harness back in the car to give yourself some wire to work with. I welded the upper brackets to wrap over the top of the radiator.
that is what the fan looks like, I got mine at a local u pull it. Look at the v-8 powered later model thunderbirds, they have that fan. The blades measure 18 inch and make sure to cut the harness back in the car to give yourself some wire to work with. I welded the upper brackets to wrap over the top of the radiator.
Yes, and according to Brian, He sells the 18 inch fan and the FK35 together. But the junk yard is a lot cheaper, By the way look at my pictures for the source of ignition source for hooking up the controller, the plug I went into on the firewall on the right side of the engine compartment has a red with yellow stripe wire that is switched when the truck is turned on. As for the AC connnection I went right down to the harness on the compressor. The black wire is ground and the other wire is 12v switched on when the compressor runs.
Yes, and according to Brian, He sells the 18 inch fan and the FK35 together. But the junk yard is a lot cheaper, By the way look at my pictures for the source of ignition source for hooking up the controller, the plug I went into on the firewall on the right side of the engine compartment has a red with yellow stripe wire that is switched when the truck is turned on. As for the AC connnection I went right down to the harness on the compressor. The black wire is ground and the other wire is 12v switched on when the compressor runs.
thanks again man. what sort of connectors did you use to make your connections? i know a lot of people use the blue clamp-style connectors, but i was a completely clean, factory looking install.
thanks again man. what sort of connectors did you use to make your connections? i know a lot of people use the blue clamp-style connectors, but i was a completely clean, factory looking install.
I used the clamp style on the AC and IGnition connections, Bought some of that corrogated sleeving to cover all wires and protect from damage. The controller comes with all connectors for the fan, and battery connections. I have a professional crimping tool (my past career was 38years of electronics) so my crimps are excellent and with the type of current draws you can get at 12v you want very good connections. The highest failure rate is do to bad connections in automotive wiring. I dont know what your skill level is in this area. Take your time, do it right, and it will work well for you.
I used the clamp style on the AC and IGnition connections, Bought some of that corrogated sleeving to cover all wires and protect from damage. The controller comes with all connectors for the fan, and battery connections. I have a professional crimping tool (my past career was 38years of electronics) so my crimps are excellent and with the type of current draws you can get at 12v you want very good connections. The highest failure rate is do to bad connections in automotive wiring. I dont know what your skill level is in this area. Take your time, do it right, and it will work well for you.
i have some experience with electronics and soldering and would solder and heat shrink all my connections. i'm well aware of problems with current and poor connections and it's not something i'm willing to risk on my daily driver.
when you pulled the fan from the junkyard, what tools were necessary? i'm going to go today to look for one, but don't want to lug my whole tool chest down there.
when you pulled the fan from the junkyard, what tools were necessary? i'm going to go today to look for one, but don't want to lug my whole tool chest down there.
A small socket set I cant remember the size of the bolts, 8mm, 10mm, sorry but just carry a small range, and a large pair of dikes to cut the wiring harness back about a foot or so from the plug on the fan. The wire is like a 8 to 10 guage. And by the way soldering, great, with heat shrink.
If you have the rubber fuse holders I would also recommend dielectric grease. I have melted two of them in two 1/2 years and two days ago melted the third and last. I removed the EFans last night and returned to stock.
If this is your daily driver I would highly recommend thinking twice.
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