do you have stock Rear Disc Breaks or drums?

you should be ok on breaks but im not sure yet. Im only runnin front breaks cause i need to get everything setup to add disc breaks.

The rear springs will work but you will have to make drop hangers or use blocks. Id say not to go with blocks. Lift springs arent that expensive. My 12" springs cost $550 shipped to my door. id call Competitionleafsprings and see what kinda deal they will give you for 6-8" springs. Just tell them 56" eye to eye and 2.5" wide. They will give you a better deal if you call.

I think an all spring setup is much cleaner, drop hangers will work fine for 8" of lift but it would have looked horrible if i did mine that way. 22" of hangers... lol

im not looking to do any crazy 4 link, i will add to it down the road. But right now im looking to just get the base setup...
I was wondering if i would be able to reuse the rear leafs and just add shackles and blocks? Or is that a bad approach?
Will my stock master cylinder work with these new axles brakes?
And what about drive shafts?

If you do it yourself it can be done for under a grand, If you have someone do it you will be looking 1500-2000. Id really call Jesse at Farmboy Fabrications. Im sure its a pretty far drive for you but he is THE BEST when it comes to F150 SAS. Like i said his parts will save you money and time. The HD 44HP is moderately stronger than the 8.8R. I believe it will handle 38's and a under powered v8.

Awesome, thanks Trim. 38 x 15.50s is probably what i'll roll with. I know i could do a 6" and then a body lift and regear it, but what's the fun in that? An HD 44HP would be stronger than our IFS correct? And the flex possibilities will be great with a SAS. I already practically max out the IFS rolling off a steep road grade into a high driveway, haha. I know these aren't cheap conversions, but do you have any idea what this would cost at the cheapest? Im going to be starting up at UF here in the summer and saving some cash to transform my truck. Right now I'm just going to try to plan it out and piece together parts. The two biggest concerns i have are brakes and steering.

If you go D44 get a HD 44HP its a Heavy duty D44 that has a high pinion. Its 7 lug but you might beable to find someone that can make you some shafts with the 5x135. If not then you can always get wheel adapters. Wouldnt really hurt that much, just loctite them on with the middle grade loctite.

Also get with Farmboy Fabrications, he has a website. Email him and get your parts from him. Last i know he has a kit made for these trucks.

To run 40's saftely you will need at least 10-12" of lift i believe.

Id say stick to 38's just for the fact that a D44 will be holding it up.

Id go with chevy 8" leaf springs, 2.5" wide. then you can get another 2" just out of the hangers.

Dont look at the size of the spring to get your lift amount though. For instance my font springs are 16" lift springs, and rear are 12" lift springs. But im around 20" of lift.

.u can probably sell your rear axle and find a 1 ton for cheaper than regearing the 8.8. Just find a 1 ton already geared. Id try to find a 14 bolt rearend they are great axles and cheap. D60's are good and have alot of aftermarket support but stock on stock the 14 bolt is stronger. If you go with a ford 1 ton rear axle you will want the 10.5 not 10.25

Hey Trim, I'm digging the progress on the truck. It is looking awesome!
I was wanting to do a small SAS with a d44 up front (i know you aren't too fond of them).... and keep the stock rear end. Do 4.88's and 38's to 40's at the most. Are there any 5x135 hubs for the 44 so i can keep my 16x10 mickey thompson wheels. I know there is no such thing as a cheap SAS, but I'm definitely not putting the same strain on my truck as you do. I just want some decent flex and height for trail riding. I'm keeping the 4.6 for now, the green machine is still running strong.
I can't wait to see yours done, I show all my friends the build and make their mall crawlers look like ****. HAHA

Id say go with a 16x10 with 4.5" of BS. thats gonna give it the BEST stance.

and those wheels will work if you decide to lift and run and size tire up to 15.5" wide

haha, just what I need a prarie dog for a truck...
thanks man, I think i might just rock 33x12.50s
i havent been able to find cheap 16x9
i only see 16x8 and 16x10 wheels
what would give a wide meaty stance?
maybe even stock wheels?

To fit 35's you will have to crank the torsion bars ALL the way up. Id also think about going with a narrow tire. Like a 35x11.5 or 35x10.5 this will allow for a better turning radius, less rub and dig like no other tire you have ever had.

if you reallly want to run 12.5's then id really consider a body lift soon after.

Hey trim, I know the question has appeared on this forum almost everyday in the tire section, but im wondering if there are exceptions:
-Can i fit 35" x 12.50" tires on stock rims on a stock 4 wheel drive f150 with the torsion bars cranked up a bit.
-The only reason I am wondering is because a fellow student drives around here with an '03 screw stock height with cranked torsion bars and 35"s... i think they might be 315/ somethings: the equivalent of a 35, maybe not quite 12.50 wide on a stock fx4 wheel.
-my friend swears up and down i can fit them because I had 33x13.50s on my stock rims at one time without the torsion bars cranked and it only rubbed at full lock barely when doing a u-turn...
-I've seen a ranger with just the t-bars cranked running 35" boggers... and it was flexing just fine... i dont know how, there might have been trimming but the fenders looked stock...