Quintin

Quintin - I read the thread on the Xenon-HID upgrade with an H13 bulb (me: 2005 stock F150). However, the instructions I got from A Line Electronics are pathetic - and I did not fully understand the responses in this thread. Seems obvious that the high beam is now abandoned. On the A Line unit, though, there is a black wire and a red wire with narrow spade terminals on the end. I don't understand and A Line has not responded...black goes to ground and red to the low beam? The other connectors are obvious (to the ballast module for example). There is no visible igniter - so I assume it's integrated - though I do not see it in the cutaway view of the ballast housing.

A small Lincoln-Mercury & Mitsubishi dealership in Columbus.

Hey bud. Which dealership do you work at?

Check the upstream O2 sensors. I've seen a few times where the engine mounts wear out and break, allowing the O2s to hit the frame rails and rub through the wiring, causing a short to ground and blowing the PCM fuse.

PCM Fuse
1997 Ford F150 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 100000 miles
Hey Quintin I have a problem and from what i see on this site it seems like you are the right guy to ask this question and if you have any ideas please let me know.... Thanks

I have recently tried to get my truck running again. I have went through and replaced and diagnosed some things and now I am stuck with a PCM 30amp fuse that blows every time i try to start the truck. It did start the first time and ran for 5 mins and blew the fuse. Since then i havent been able to even start it before the fuse blows. It even blows a 40amp fuse. I am not sure how the PCM works or what could be causing it to blow.

I just pulled my spark plugs and they were in bad shape I had 2 broken plugs and they all had a 100 thousand gap(double what they were suposed to have). I heard that if my coil pack was bad it could blow my PCM fuse. Could this be the problem?
Any help is appreciated
Thank You

It's from "The Call of Cthulhu," by HP Lovecraft.

Great sig quote - I love it! (Whose is it?)

Cool. Glad you got it.

Quiintin,

Solved the whistle problem last night. Slapped in a Ford remanufactured alternator - just like some of the posters said in the '04-'08 forum. The silence is golden!

Quintin,

As you suggested, I gathered some more information for you on my whistling truck. First, here’s the VIN #: 1FTRF14535NA65131. That should come back to a 2005 XLT regular cab / short box 4x4 with the 5.4 liter motor.

Next, I tried to see if I could make the noise appear with the truck in Park. Much to my surprise, I could. Unfortunately, nobody else was around to hold the pedal whilst I poked my head around under the hood to see if I could hear it. But, the whistle appears only below about 40 degrees – colder if it’s wet outside. (Today it’s wet and 40 and no noise. When I took the truck down to North Carolina last month, it was dry and about 40 and it whistled the whole way down.)

The nose sounds like either a whistle or one running a wet finger around a wine glass. It fades in at about 1,700 RPMS and fades out at about 1,900 RPM under light load. (Remember, the factory tachometer isn’t all that accurate.) When it happens while I’m driving, all one has to do is slightly vary the pressure on the accelerator pedal (up or down) and it’s gone. It does it when the truck is cold or up to operating temperature – again – as long as it’s cold outside. I recently replaced the serpentine belt with a Goodyear Gatorback and it had absolutely no effect.

Hopefully you can shed some light on this one. It’s really driving me wild. You’ll find numerous posts on it in the 2004-2008 forum.

Thanks again!

Tom