A-KELL

Hey man, I like your Green Machine as well. It looks mean with those new rims too so I like it with the new and old ones. You mentioned my stance on my truck. I appreciate it but didn't cost me much,lol. I just cranked the torsion bars to level it out and put 285 75 16s on it instead of the factory 235 70 16s and doing that with the cranked bars lifted it 2.5 inches over stock. Cool to meet you and have one so similiar to mine.

do you have stock Rear Disc Breaks or drums?

you should be ok on breaks but im not sure yet. Im only runnin front breaks cause i need to get everything setup to add disc breaks.

The rear springs will work but you will have to make drop hangers or use blocks. Id say not to go with blocks. Lift springs arent that expensive. My 12" springs cost $550 shipped to my door. id call Competitionleafsprings and see what kinda deal they will give you for 6-8" springs. Just tell them 56" eye to eye and 2.5" wide. They will give you a better deal if you call.

I think an all spring setup is much cleaner, drop hangers will work fine for 8" of lift but it would have looked horrible if i did mine that way. 22" of hangers... lol

whats up man. in that pic its actually got a 3" bodylift and the torsion bars are cranked all the way up. the rear i added an inch to the exsisting block and the tires rubbed like a muther. but all in all i didnt want to spend any money on a lift that was gonna be changed. but i think if you go with a 5" susp. you shouldnt have a probablem. maybe a lil tire rubidge

If you do it yourself it can be done for under a grand, If you have someone do it you will be looking 1500-2000. Id really call Jesse at Farmboy Fabrications. Im sure its a pretty far drive for you but he is THE BEST when it comes to F150 SAS. Like i said his parts will save you money and time. The HD 44HP is moderately stronger than the 8.8R. I believe it will handle 38's and a under powered v8.

If you go D44 get a HD 44HP its a Heavy duty D44 that has a high pinion. Its 7 lug but you might beable to find someone that can make you some shafts with the 5x135. If not then you can always get wheel adapters. Wouldnt really hurt that much, just loctite them on with the middle grade loctite.

Also get with Farmboy Fabrications, he has a website. Email him and get your parts from him. Last i know he has a kit made for these trucks.

To run 40's saftely you will need at least 10-12" of lift i believe.

Id say stick to 38's just for the fact that a D44 will be holding it up.

Id go with chevy 8" leaf springs, 2.5" wide. then you can get another 2" just out of the hangers.

Dont look at the size of the spring to get your lift amount though. For instance my font springs are 16" lift springs, and rear are 12" lift springs. But im around 20" of lift.

.u can probably sell your rear axle and find a 1 ton for cheaper than regearing the 8.8. Just find a 1 ton already geared. Id try to find a 14 bolt rearend they are great axles and cheap. D60's are good and have alot of aftermarket support but stock on stock the 14 bolt is stronger. If you go with a ford 1 ton rear axle you will want the 10.5 not 10.25

Id say go with a 16x10 with 4.5" of BS. thats gonna give it the BEST stance.

and those wheels will work if you decide to lift and run and size tire up to 15.5" wide

To fit 35's you will have to crank the torsion bars ALL the way up. Id also think about going with a narrow tire. Like a 35x11.5 or 35x10.5 this will allow for a better turning radius, less rub and dig like no other tire you have ever had.

if you reallly want to run 12.5's then id really consider a body lift soon after.

hey green gotta question did your truck come with the flares or did you buy them? do u kno where i could get some for my 02 f150? reg cab

the 4.6 coupled with a manual transmission will handle 35's just fine. It will feel alittle sluggish but will be ok.

If you wanted to you could regear 4.56 and it will help out alot turnin them 35's in the sand or mud.

Do you plan on going any bigger? 37's or 38's If so id hold off on regearing till then and go with 4.88's

Id also look into getting a Limited Slip (ls) they are well worth the money.

Im gonna be running 5.13's and 40's then once the 40's are done ill go up to 44's or bigger.

And to answer your question about welding on the axle tube, you can but you have to becarefull. You dont want to burn though it. And id also drain all the fluid. The easiest way would be to weld on TABS then make the traction bars with tabs that bolt on to the tabs on the axle.

I got mine from 4wheelparts.com you can find them cheaper but really not much. Just make sure to go with a Peformance Accessories brand. They are the most complete kit. You will need gap gaurds if you want to hide it. I decided not to get them, i was going to make some but never got to them.