I'll try again..I can't get the switch out,,whats the secret ? Thanks

 

Houndog,

Mine was so tight I almost gave up on it. Finally, what I did was use a rag around a butterknife blade and gently pry the right side of top center. Then I pulled with my fingernails and it started to come out at the 3 o'clock position. Then I used my fingernails at that point and it came out on the right hand side. Once I had the right side in my hands, I gently worked the left side from there.

After seeing it firsthand, it appears as though a very thin instrument such as a small metal fingernail file could be inserted in the "slot" at the bottom to disengage the bottom metal clip and then work from there. That must be what the dealer does, otherwise the slot wouldn't be there. Just take your time and use a rag on the prying instrument so you don't "dent" your dash. Well, except fingernails, of course. Just take your time, it will come out. Don't use the **** to pull on, it's relatively fragile. Any other ?'s I'll be happy to answer.

------------------
Jim
Black '00
#1,757 of 4,966
Built 3/30/00 (a Thursday!)
Clear corners
J.L. Enhanced R9
J.L. Stage II Ram-Air
FMS oval T/B next




[This message has been edited by gforce (edited 05-09-2001).]

 

I need help in my lightning mine is a 99 and have only 6 wires in the three plugs so you said there is 9 wires could you tell me what i should do i have cut the pisce out of the light switch so whats next need your help on the

------------------
99.5 Lightning
Downs intake
Superchip
Slotted Rotors F&R
Lo Pro Tonneau
Netro wing
Alpine Command unit

 

FASTBOLTof LIGHT
Have you tried the Mod of adding the toggle
switch and tapping into I believe the yellow
wire then going through the switch contacs to
a hot wire. ALso ground the switch case.Then
you can turn the lites to parking and turn on the toggle and the Fogs should come on. Be
careful when you though the switch as to not bounce onto off. I have blown fuses but thats all and I run with only the Fogs most of the time. Make sure to check my wire colors out I would have to pull it apart to make sure I'm correct.There was a post thatI
printed out onhow its done but don't remember
where it was. Sorry I hope I helped?

------------------
Robert B. Chuhran

 

FASTBOLTof LIGHT
Have you tried the Mod of adding the toggle
switch and tapping into I believe the yellow
wire then going through the switch contacs to
a hot wire. ALso ground the switch case.Then
you can turn the lites to parking and turn on the toggle and the Fogs should come on. Be
careful when you though the switch as to not bounce onto off. I have blown fuses but thats all and I run with only the Fogs most of the time. Make sure to check my wire colors out I would have to pull it apart to make sure I'm correct.There was a post thatI
printed out onhow its done but don't remember
where it was. Sorry I hope I helped?

------------------
Robert B. Chuhran

 

I collected a bunch of info on the headlight mods and posted it all together ( With Authors permission ) on my site - You might find the info you are looking for there.... Click on the how to link www.SVTLightnings.com

Doug

------------------
Picked up Silver 2000 Lightning 2/28/00!!
1st run 13.9 sec 1/4 !! Best Run 13.43
drbdkb@hotmail.com

My Web Site www.SVTLightnings.com

2000 Lightning, FMS 3.73 gears ( Expensive ), PSP 4 Way Chip ( Retired due to pinging ), PSP Intake, Valentine 1, Snuglid, Bedrug, Lighted Ford Logos, Superchip R9, and 3m Panther Black nickel tint, Clear corners., Boston Acoustics 5x7s and Components, Alpine v12 5 channel Amp and JL Sub.

 

I realize I've resurected a post that's almost a year old. But I just did this. I was frustrated that unlike my Jeep Grand Cherokee, I couldn't keep the driving lights on with auto-lamps or turn them on with the parking lights only.

Man am I impressed with the guys that took the time to post everything. My switch now acts and feels like OEM and does everything I wanted. Driving lights with autolamp and with parking lights.

Big Kudo's to Doug and his SVT Lightning Site where he has consolidated these guys hard work. Click on "Links to how to's" on the left.

Each version was helpful. If you do it, don't mis What04's description at the bottom where he suggests increasing the notch around the shaft just enough to have the OEM feel **** "click" into place in auto-lamp. It makes a huge difference if you want that OEM feel.

One thing that may be obvious but I didn't catch it at first, you can easily remove the **** from the shaft to disassemble the switch enough to make the cutting and filing very easy. On the opposite side from the white mark on the front of the ****, you'll see and small square opening. I used a nail to slide in push and viola, it pops off and you can see how to do the rest when you see the shaft.

Also, I cut the heat tabs; it was easy and I couldn't see how in the world anyone sould do the mods without opeing it up. I tried to use super glue but the bottle we had was so old, it didn't work. Here's another tip. I took a nail, heated the tip and (holding with pliers I might add) reheated the heat tabs and the thing was back together tight as new. I just poked the hot nail right back into the hole with the heat tab. Worked great and clean too!

A free mod (except for the tap clip to splice the wires if you elect to do that part.

I did this at the same time I installed my Xenon 9007's so I'll be driving somewhere, anywhere as soon as it gets dark to check them out!!

Kudo's guys, you all did a great job with the instructions and to Doug for putting it all in one place.

------------------
2000 EDDIE BAUER EXPEDITION 4x2

• Estate Green
• 5.4 ltr
• 3:55 LS rear
• Superchip!
• Airaid FIPK
• Gibson S/S Swept Side Cat Back Exhaust
• Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar
• Xenon Super White Headlights
• Tow Package
• Rear Load Leveling
• Moonroof
• Century Child Seat!
• Front Polyurethane Anti-Sway Bar Bushings ordered

-->Come share my Addiction<--

[This message has been edited by FamilyRide (edited 03-03-2001).]

 

Thank you very much for the info. My Expedition does not have autolamps so there are only eight wires going into the connector. The two wires you mentioned are still the ones to splice (black w/ white stripe and brown) without autolamps. By the way, the item you use to splice the two wires is called a Scotchlock (as in 3M). Again, thanks for the research and info.

 

i did the driving light mod today by splicing the the headlamp output wire with the driving light wire. it took me anout 5 min and cost 1.00 for the splicer and i didnt have to cut anything. i was going to perform the mod as it was in the how too but it seemed too difficult. so i took the wire chart and used it to find out what wires to splice. now that i spliced the whires the driving lights are always on with the headlights. includin autolamp they also stay on for 20 sec when i shut the truck off with the headlights. they only downside is i cannot turn them off (when the headlights are on)and i also cant have only the foglights on. but i can remove the splice easily and there wont be any permanent modifications.

 

This weekend I attempted the mod on my 2002 F-150 per Rick's write up. I was having an issue once the mechanical and electrical mod was complete. Per instruction, it said to connect #2 (W/BK) and #12 (BN) with a jumper. When I did this I had my low beams coming on in the parking lamp switch position. After some testing and trials I found that I needed to cut the #2 (W/BK) wire. The splice remains between #2 and #12 going into the switch but the #2 (W/BK) wire going to the vehicle is no longer connected. This corrected the issue and all operation is good.



This is not a Canadian vehicle but I noticed that the write up spoke of cutting the #2 (W/BK) wire away from the switch connector. It was unclear which side of the splice the cut was made.