I just got mine in from McMaster-Carr. It is stainless steel, has 3/8" barbs and costs $14.62. They don't offer 5/16" but the hoses still fit on this one.

Here it is:



Part number is 2653K66. Here's their website:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Jody

 

That's a great find!

But, I just ordered the parts to do a custom dual lines out the top of the tank with mine yesturday........ O well; it will work great when I decided to add the spray

 

Nice find...

 

Nice find Jody. McMaster Carr rules.

There's really nothing wrong with the stock plastic one, just people overtighten the worm clamps and that usually caves the plastic in. I've been guilty of it myself in the past.

 

I love McMaster Carr! Mine was crushed on install when the engine was done, and it took me months to figure out what it was. Guess that's what I get for not monitoring fuel pressure. As soon as I did I knew something was wrong.

Now the truck runs awesome on closed loop, something I couldn't get before.

Jody

 

Jody, was there a pressure drop that flagged your problem?

Peace,

Suavy

 

Suavy,

I was chasing an inconsistent idle and a lean condition up top with my methanol and water setup. With straight denatured alky it was fine. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on and saw I had a max of 35 psi, so I bypassed the high/low relay and still only had 35 psi, when it should have been 50-60. So I dropped the tank and pulled the pumps out and saw that the "Y" was crushed on one leg to the point of that pump not working, and the other side was maybe 2/3's of normal. The guy who installed the pumps didn't get the clamps far enough up from the end of the nipple.

I replaced the nipple and still had an inconsistent idle pressure, but had 60 psi at wot. At idle the pressure varied from 22-28 psi, going up and down constantly. Well that big of a difference plays heck with your tune and a/f so I bought new pumps thinking one or both was bad. This did not solve the issue so I installed an adjustable regulator.

The regulator solved two things. It allowed me to bump the idle pressure up to a steady 33 psi or so, and the increased pressure made my hot starts much faster. I had played with cranking fuel for a long time but even if you added more or less the psi was still too low to get a consistent start.

My wot fuel pressure issue is something I've had since the new engine was installed. Since I run a lot of alcohol injected in the extra alky gave me the fuel I needed to keep my a/f good under wot even though the fuel pressure was way low. When I started mixing alky and water as an experiment I lost the extra fuel and discovered I had to radically change my maf transfer to compensate, which I knew the change was too much and something else was wrong.

The purpose of this thread was because several others have had the plastic Y's break, crack, etc. and people have been looking for a metal replacement.

I also think there may be an issue with some trucks and the 255 pumps. My 03 could not control the voltage to the pumps at idle/cruise, always fluctuating. The wiring on the truck actually cuts the voltage to the pumps under idle/cruise until you hit a preset tp/load, ? and it relays to full voltage, speeding the pumps up and making the pressure jump. This makes the pumps last longer and stay cooler as they're not always working full speed. As a matter of fact until the regulator came in I bypassed the high/low relay and ran 60 psi all the time. Just did a quick maf transfer adjustment and dialed it in perfect for the increased pressure. Truck ran great, but the pumps heated up and after driving 30 minutes or more the pressure started dropping and varying. The gas tank was very hot to the touch and the tune went away. On a race truck this would be fine but a street truck cannot run this way all the time. I do think that there are others fighting a fuel pressure issue and don't know it yet.

Jody

 

As always Jody great Post! I learned alot from it. I'm gonna drop my tank and check my set up out.

God Bless,

Suavy

 

I would first suggest checking fuel pressure at idle and with the high/low relay bypassed. That will tell you a lot right there. After dropping the tank a few times I can drop it, swap pumps, and re-install in about 45 minutes! I do have a car lift too though which makes a big difference.

Jody

 

Great find...Just ordered one for my Lightning!
wjm

 

For what it's worth I dropped my tank tonight in plans of new pumps and found that my "Y" fitting was crushed on both legs that go to the pumps. I put them in a bucket of fuel under the truck and watched them and they were both leaking at the "Y" fitting.

A better "Y" fitting is a MUST for anybody that installs pumps IMO.

Hopefully fixing this will fix my fuel/lean problems........

 

Like I said great find Jody!

Peace,

Suavy

 

Thanks guys. I hope it helps out a few who are chasing mysterious tuning issues. Since a fp gauge isn't standard fare on these trucks and I've found several people who've had issues, sharing info will hopefully help out.

Jody

 

Hope this solves it Casey. I chased a mysterious lean out issue when I first started tuning this built motor at a load just before it would go open loop and never could figure it out. I fixed it (band aid actually) by tuning it for open loop all the time and forcing the a/f I wanted. Now I see why I was having problems.

Jody

 

Jody, my truck doesn't lean out at WOT when I let off the gas and it goes to coast it feels like I'm pulling a trailor. Thats why I think that I have a smashed or cracked "Y" cuz on the low pressure side the fuel starts to by pass through the crack. At 1/2 throttle no pinging or burnt plugs feels strong it's the low pressure I'm fightning.

Peace,

Suavy