How To: 5.4 Engine Assembly (Photos)
#91
02-04-2008, 09:38 PM
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Struck in AZ
Sal,
I wasn't inferring anything at all about the tuning and I'm sorry if you took it as a slight. I thought it was common knowledge that the ring end gaps were too tight for the planned nitrous use and spraying the thing just brought about its early demise. I was just making a simple comment that it didn't live long after being dynoed...and apparently it was dynoed several times.
I wasn't inferring anything at all about the tuning and I'm sorry if you took it as a slight. I thought it was common knowledge that the ring end gaps were too tight for the planned nitrous use and spraying the thing just brought about its early demise. I was just making a simple comment that it didn't live long after being dynoed...and apparently it was dynoed several times.
. But you could have just said "it blew up shortly after being on the dyno".
#93
02-05-2008, 04:51 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Milford Connecticut
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keep the pic's coming.
#94
02-05-2008, 06:03 PM
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#95
02-05-2008, 06:28 PM
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#96
02-05-2008, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by todd abbott
Struck, I never looked at the date
, I remember him selling his truck and just assumed he picked up another and started again (dumb ***) I believe he ended up with a JDM motor after this one had issues.
, I remember him selling his truck and just assumed he picked up another and started again (dumb ***) I believe he ended up with a JDM motor after this one had issues.
#97
02-12-2008, 11:39 PM
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ring gap
i know this is old old news, but,
on a typical 5.4 engine as in the lightning, supercharged, stock bore, what ring gap is seen?
I built a 408 windsor motor for our mustang last year. Absolutely no engine building experience aside from small engine and power equipment. It was a good learning experience. There are many things that you can f-up if you don't check and recheck.
We spray the car with a 175 shot. Went round and round on what to set the gap at. A little different, because this car is a track only car, not a daily driver, and we went .030, top and bottom. No issues
Where you are combining supercharging and nos, i was just curious where they would be?
on a typical 5.4 engine as in the lightning, supercharged, stock bore, what ring gap is seen?
I built a 408 windsor motor for our mustang last year. Absolutely no engine building experience aside from small engine and power equipment. It was a good learning experience. There are many things that you can f-up if you don't check and recheck.
We spray the car with a 175 shot. Went round and round on what to set the gap at. A little different, because this car is a track only car, not a daily driver, and we went .030, top and bottom. No issues
Where you are combining supercharging and nos, i was just curious where they would be?
#99
02-17-2008, 10:09 PM
#100
02-17-2008, 10:16 PM
Senior Member
#101
10-26-2016, 03:52 PM
Incorrect Torque Specs for 06 F150 5.4
apply a small bead of silicon rtv sealer to the gaps where the cylinder heads meet the block.
this is a 3 way intersection, the cylinder head, block and timing cover will all meet here, so a clean dry surface w/ some sealant applied is required to prevent oil leaks.
there are two of these joints on each side of the front of the motor.
now you are ready to install your timing cover.
(NOTE: you may want to install your front crank seal BEFORE installing the timing cover, it can be done with a simple seal/race installer or something similar. installing it afterwards requires a special tool)
you can now install the timing cover.
the bolts in the above picture are accurate for our trucks with the exception of number 10, we have a stud with a spacer behind it in that position. also the numbers in the above picture indicate the torque sequence. most people don't bother with it, but if you want it, there it is.
Tighten the engine front cover fasteners in sequence in three stages.
Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 5 to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 6 and 7 to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten fasteners 8 through 15 to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
I'm not sure why they want 1-5 left at 18ft/lbs, doesn't make sense to me, so I went back and tightened them up to 35lb/ft as a final step. I don't know if that was right or wrong, but IMHO, it's not a critical thing anyway.
this is a 3 way intersection, the cylinder head, block and timing cover will all meet here, so a clean dry surface w/ some sealant applied is required to prevent oil leaks.
there are two of these joints on each side of the front of the motor.
now you are ready to install your timing cover.
(NOTE: you may want to install your front crank seal BEFORE installing the timing cover, it can be done with a simple seal/race installer or something similar. installing it afterwards requires a special tool)
you can now install the timing cover.
the bolts in the above picture are accurate for our trucks with the exception of number 10, we have a stud with a spacer behind it in that position. also the numbers in the above picture indicate the torque sequence. most people don't bother with it, but if you want it, there it is.
Tighten the engine front cover fasteners in sequence in three stages.
Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 5 to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 6 and 7 to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten fasteners 8 through 15 to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
I'm not sure why they want 1-5 left at 18ft/lbs, doesn't make sense to me, so I went back and tightened them up to 35lb/ft as a final step. I don't know if that was right or wrong, but IMHO, it's not a critical thing anyway.
. The diagram he showed me had all the same numbers by the bolts but the instructions show:Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 15 to 25 NM (18 lb-ft)
Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 6 and 7 to 48 NM (35 lb-ft)
4 Oil Pan Bolts:
Stage 1: Tighten to 20 NM (15 lb-ft)
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 60 degrees
Hope this helps save someone from a broken bolt headache!