it goes to your heater core via a metal tube and rubber hose.

if you are using a new block like I am, then you'll have to transfer a metal fitting over for the tube to connect to.



put a little sealer on it and it presses in from the front of the block.

now is as good a time as any to install all of your hydraulic lash adjusters and your camshaft roller followers. I used the same ford valve spring compressor tool that I used earlier to install the valves/springs/keepers. make sure that all of these parts are clean and using a little assembly lube doesn't hurt either.

 

once your followers and lash adjusters are in place, you are ready to install your valve covers.

so install your valve cover gaskets into their respective covers.



ford says to glue them into place with "instant adhesive". some people glue 'em , some people don't.

run a bead of silicon sealer across the gaps where the top edge of the timing cover meets the cylinder head. there are two seams on each side that need sealer.



now install your valve covers and tighten them down.

here's a diagram of the right hand side torque sequence, the LH is similar.

 

allright I know I said in another post that I wouldn't post any more pics of my motor until it was completed, well I guess I lied.

these valve covers look too good to keep under wraps.

here's what the valve covers look like installed.




IMHO, THIS is the reason that we have the OIL in the INTAKE/THROTTLE BODY problem!

This is a picture of the "baffle" on the underside of each valve cover.



for whatever reason, the folks at ford didn't do much of a job designing this "baffle". it's nothing more than a empty box. If I had more time I might have cut this box open and installed some type of screen or better baffle system in there. in ford's defense they couldn't do a screen on a factory valve cover because it HAS to be serviceable. it would have to be external or replaceable like on the 5.0 motors. some folks are like us and change their oil constantly. while some folks do it seldom to never. for those people the oil would sludge up in the screen and cause blockage and excessive crankcase pressure and possible engine damage.

 

ok, now it's time to install your water pump.

stocker is no problem HOWEVER, if you are using a MEZIERE electric waterpump like I am, a LONG "WOBBLE" 6MM hex head socket tool is pretty much a must have item.

the bolts are for the most part BEHIND the idler pulley portion of the waterpump.

apply a little grease or a thin smear of silicon sealer to the o-ring on the pump and slide it into place. and tighten the bolts.

you can see why you need a special tool here:


at this point you can either proceed with the intake manifold/supercharger/etc or you can start bolting on the little stuff like motor mounts, oil filter relocater etc.

either way I'm not showing any more pics of the engine until it's complete.

see you on tuesday!


later,
chris

 

That is one bad a$$ motor. If it runs half as good as it looks youll be in good shape

 

cool. i realy needed a write up like this.

 

i wanna see it run!!! w00t!

 

It did .... For awhile

 

Chris, Very cool how-to, my hats of to you for all your effort.

 

Until it let go while being sprayed on Sal's dyno...

 

Uhhh... no.

 

Some reading you may find interesting....


https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...engine+of+doom


Maybe you would like to help him rebuild it too..... https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...engine+of+doom

 

Alright...shortly after being sprayed on your dyno. How long did it last after it came off the dyno?

 

First off.... Chris asked me for specs and clearances on how he should build the motor, to which I gladly gave him the needed info. He chose to use specs from someone else, which happened to be tighter tolerances than I told him. Tight tolerances and high hp (i.e. high HEAT) don't mix. Chris said when he pulled the motor apart after it failed, he could see the rings had expanded to the point where the ends hit each other.

BEFORE Chris even drove up for me to dyno his truck, he'd already been to THREE other tuners, who all took his truck to 6000 rpms on their dynos.

When he finally decided it was time to have the truck tuned right and he drove all the way to NY for me to tune it, the truck was already hurt as evident from what we saw on the plugs before I started tuning and the fact that the truck was already slightly smoking at the time.

I was able to tune the truck, to the best numbers it had ever seen, still with a nice safe tune even at over 700 rwhp. But the damage had already been done, it was just a matter of time, and the tolerances were just too tight for that motor to live at that power level.

So yes, the motor failed shortly after it was on my dyno, but there's a lot more to the story than your single sentance post. Your post makes it sound like his motor blew up because of my tuning.

 

Sal,

I wasn't inferring anything at all about the tuning and I'm sorry if you took it as a slight. I thought it was common knowledge that the ring end gaps were too tight for the planned nitrous use and spraying the thing just brought about its early demise. I was just making a simple comment that it didn't live long after being dynoed...and apparently it was dynoed several times.