Excellent write up and pics Chris!!!

 

What a good post. I am now taking orders on a strictly first come first serve basis on built 5.4 mod motors.

 

Good luck getting it all finished. Can't wait to see what she can do!

So are you wanting to divulge what all you are doing with the truck yet? I'm sure one can just go back through some of your recent posts and find out I guess.

Here's what I found so far (correct me if I'm wrong):

-Built shortblock by Superfords
--03' Ford Block
--03' Ford Crank
--Manley Rods
--CP Pistons
--ARP Main studs and Rod bolts
-Extrude Honed 03' Heads
--Crower 1mm oversized valves
--Crower Cams
-03' Lower Intake ceramic coated/hand ported
-Apten Ported Eaton
-Upper intake ceramic coated/extrude honed
-PSP 6# lower pulley
-PSP air filter
-Billetflow single blade throttle body
-Kooks ceramic coated long tube headers
-Magnaflow/Car Sounds high flow cats
-JDM Silver bullet catback
-PSP tuned chip
-Denso IT?? plugs
-Electric Fan
-Meziere electric water pump
-Heat exchanger
-Nitrous Express 150 shot!

 

all of that plus,

extrude honed upper

crower cams

NITROUS EXPRESS 150 SHOT!!!

changing my plate to "kenne bell this"

prolly some other stuff I forgot too.

I'm at work right now. I was hoping to have the truck running today but it just isn't gonna happen.

I will have some bada$$ COMPLETE motor pics when I get home though.

stay tuned.

later,
chris

 

Looking GOOD

I wonder what FordTek is doing??????

 

ok guys, we are ready to time the engine.

first if you are using a new block, you need to install two small dowel pins in these two holes. both align the timing cover, and one is used to time the engine.


you also need to install these two long dowel pins, they are for the timing chain tensioners.


if you are using stock cams, your cam gears are pressed on and are already in place, however if you are using aftermarket cams you'll have to bolt the cam gears onto the front of each cam. just line up the keyway and slip them on.

 

(NOTE: ignore the timing chains in these two pictures, and pay no attention to the man behind the curtain, or something...)

making sure that you've got a spacer behind each gear


put your washer and bolt on the front


go ahead and snug the bolts down by hand.

you can install your timing chain guides now if you like. two 8mm bolts on each side, 89inch lbs, they are left and right side specific.


IMPORTANT!!!: notice the oil galley hole identified by the arrow in the picture above! if you are using a new block, you MUST install a new oil galley plug in this hole and another one in the hole at the other end of this main oil galley in the rear of the block. If you are using a used block then they will already be installed. the plug is approximately 13.85mm and available from ford. Do Not Bolt the Timing Cover or the Rear Seal Cover on without first installing or checking for these plugs! low oil pressure and potential engine damage will result!

(even after looking at these empty holes over and over again, I still managed to forget to install the plugs. I had to go back and remove the timing cover and rear seal cover plate and install the galley plugs. you may notice them missing in some of the following pictures, like I said, it's because I forgot to install them and had to go back and do it later. a stupid mistake, so don't forget these ok!)

 

you can now install the crankshaft timing tool. this tool is shaped like a handle so you can spin the crankshaft over, when the hole in the tool lines up with the dowel on the passenger side, you press it into place and this puts the #1 cylinder @ Top Dead Center.


you can now install your crankshaft timing gear.


it will go on in both directions, so make sure you don't put it on backwards.
if you've got it right, you'll see an engine timing mark on the bottom face of the gear. if you look closely at the above picture, you can see the timing dot peeking out from around the crank snout.

you are now ready to install the left hand (driver side) timing chain. take the chain and look at it. it SHOULD have 3 copper colored links. two of them are side by side, and the other one is an equal length away from both of them in either direction.
(meaning it's on the opposite side of the chain)

sometimes the copper marks are difficult or impossible to see.

in that case all is not lost, just lay your timing chain out like this:

 

when you stretch the chain out you'll notice that one end looks like this (one link):


and the other side will look like this (two links):


go ahead and mark the end links, these will take the place of your copper links if you couldn't find them. the marks you make will be your timing marks.

 

go ahead and install the left hand chain. the two link marks go on either side of the timing mark on the gear:


NOTE: there is a raised hump or bar on the left hand (driver side) timing chain gear. this is NOT a timing mark, it is the trigger for the camshaft position sensor that will be installed in the timing cover. use the DOTS for timing

and the single marked link lines up with the dot on the crank gear:

 

now you can install your timing chain tensioner guide and the oil pressurized tensioner itself.

this is another one of those areas of the buildup that is very important, and takes both hands to do so unfortunately I don't have any good pictures of installing the tensioner and tensioner guide.

the way it is supposed to work is that you put the tensioner in a vise and compress it. similar to compressing the piston on a set of disc brake calipers. once compressed you install a little lock tool to keep the piston from popping back out. however I have yet to find this tool, so I had to find the help of an assistant to squeeze the tensioners into place.

there is a little oil pressurized piston on your timing chain tensioner that expands to push against the tensioner guide and keep tension on the timing chains. there is one on each side. they are bolted on over top of an oil galley hole that supplies oil pressure to the back of the pistons to take up any slack in the chains.

the end of the guide opposite the tensioner fits onto one of the long dowels mentioned earlier in this post.

here's the LEFT (driver) side:



after you bolt the tensioner up on the left hand side, you can proceed to the right hand (passenger) side and repeat the same procedure for installing the chain..


when you are done, double check and make sure that neither of your chains jumped a tooth, and that all of your timing marks are still in the correct place:

 

IMPORTANT!!! don't forget to tighten the bolts on the front of each CAMSHAFT!!! I searched but couldn't find a torqe spec. I think I did mine to like 65 or 75ft/lbs. in the shop most guys just hit 'em with an impact gun. either way you should be holding the cams with a cam holding tool (stock cams) or a wrench (aftermarket cams) when you are torquing these.

now you can install your crankshaft position sensor trigger wheel.

it's teeth face outwards like this:


now you are ready to install your timing cover.

the timing cover uses 3 seperate rubber gaskets. install each one in it's respective location.

 

apply a small bead of silicon rtv sealer to the gaps where the cylinder heads meet the block.

this is a 3 way intersection, the cylinder head, block and timing cover will all meet here, so a clean dry surface w/ some sealant applied is required to prevent oil leaks.

there are two of these joints on each side of the front of the motor.


now you are ready to install your timing cover.

(NOTE: you may want to install your front crank seal BEFORE installing the timing cover, it can be done with a simple seal/race installer or something similar. installing it afterwards requires a special tool)

you can now install the timing cover.




the bolts in the above picture are accurate for our trucks with the exception of number 10, we have a stud with a spacer behind it in that position. also the numbers in the above picture indicate the torque sequence. most people don't bother with it, but if you want it, there it is.

Tighten the engine front cover fasteners in sequence in three stages.
Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 5 to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 6 and 7 to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
Stage 3: Tighten fasteners 8 through 15 to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).

I'm not sure why they want 1-5 left at 18ft/lbs, doesn't make sense to me, so I went back and tightened them up to 35lb/ft as a final step. I don't know if that was right or wrong, but IMHO, it's not a critical thing anyway.

 

you can now install the CKP (crankshaft postition sensor)


and the CMP (camshaft position sensor)


and your front seal if you didn't do it earlier.

 

apply some motor oil to the lip of the front seal and to your balancer and you are ready to install the harmonic balancer/ crankshaft dampener.

you install these WITH AN INSTALLER TOOL, NOT A HAMMER!

especially when it's a pretty one like this


here's the BHJ (same people who made the torque plate we used earlier) SFI approved steel balancer installed. notice the hole in the back of the waterpump opening.