http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2455448119

 

I bulit my on and they work excelent. They surely arn't worth 200 dollars if they are im going into business

 

Those are NOT home made, lol. I bet at around 25% of the people on this board that have T-bars run those.

-Kimball

 

Once you add Shipping, you can get JLP's for the same price,
he has them on sale right now

 

Why do you say that.........my buddy borrowed my Truck Traks and made a set identical. You honestly couldn't tell the difference between the 2.

--Joe

 

HI!... I built my own traction bars for about $125(can) They are fully boxed and TIG welded.

 

how hard is it to make them?? I would be very interested in making my own, since it's possible.

 

Here you go Joe.

My cousin built these.

 

Thanks for the "supprt" dudes

--Joe

 

OK, I guess I was expecting it to say homemade in the description on Ebay. Didn't mean that one could not make em. Heck, you can make most of the parts that are sold for our trucks at home depending on what kinda tools you got.

Too bad I dont have a CNC Mill or Lathe. But I do have access to them, just gotta convince the professors that it is for school.

-Kimball

 

Mine were not copied by measuring a set of Truck Traks. We jacked up the passenger side of my L and took the wheel off. We measured the length to go from behind the axle to just behind the front of the leaf spring. That piece was cut and we moved on from there. I already had the snubbers so we drilled the hole and mounted it. A spacer was used to keep it the right distance from the spring and the rest of the pieces were cut one at a time. Each piece was welded into place and the next measurement taken until the bar was finished. I wrote all the measurements and angles down as we went. We built the other side from the measurements and they both fit great.

The ones we built had flat bar on the top of the springs to connect them instead of using U bolts.

I came up with a unique idea when we built a set for a buddy. I notched the front of the bar back to the snubber hole. With slapper bars a load will cause them to set on the snubbers. The slot in the front will let you loosen the nut on the snubber and slide it out of the front for hauling a load.

 

Kimball,

You got that right about the tools. I'd hate to do this job with a hacksaw and a propane touch, LOL.

 

 

Thanks Chuck!!!

Any reason that I couldn't use 2"x2" for the risers - i.e. any interference issues I might need to be concerned about? I realize some of the other dimesions would need to change.

Joel.....

 

HI!... I used 2" X 2" square box for the risers and 3" X 2" for the main body. Mine were also built piece by piece. Mine all longer than the TRUK TRAKS. Mine line up the snubber where it should be, directly under the leak spring eyelet, not the leaf spring it'self. My exhaust was then re-routed to compensate for the longer traction bars.