Need some help with wiring hella 500ff's!
#1
Need some help with wiring hella 500ff's!
i seached for a good diagram but i think i followed the hella diagram the best, they all seem very confusing so im asking for some help. i have never installed aftermarket lights before so i have lots to learn. i bought some hella 500's to put in my new n-fab light cage. anyways heres where i am...
i started running the red to battery, blue to ground and black to the lights. all from the relay.
now im stuck where exactly does the yellow wire go?
where do i run the green wire from the switch?
what wires go where on the back of the switch? / what order?
top-green?
middle-yellow?
bottom- ground?
also is it safe to run a 3rd hella off the same relay? i ask because the light cage only holds 3 lights and i dont want to run a seperate relay for just one light if i dont have to.
thanks everyone. here is a diagram
http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/...ingdiagram.png
i started running the red to battery, blue to ground and black to the lights. all from the relay.
now im stuck where exactly does the yellow wire go?
where do i run the green wire from the switch?
what wires go where on the back of the switch? / what order?
top-green?
middle-yellow?
bottom- ground?
also is it safe to run a 3rd hella off the same relay? i ask because the light cage only holds 3 lights and i dont want to run a seperate relay for just one light if i dont have to.
thanks everyone. here is a diagram
http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/...ingdiagram.png
Last edited by 04onefifty; 02-07-2012 at 01:00 AM. Reason: added info
#2
Join Date: Jun 2002
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Where you run the green wire depends on when you want to be able to use the lamps.
This is what Hella was trying to get at with the examples in the pictures.
so if you want to be able to have the lamps on with the high or low beams or parking lamps, you would splice the green wire to the parking lamp wire ( Ford this is the brown wire )
Same for low only or high only, splice the green wire to the correct wire for that function.
Q1 -> did that make sense ?
You can get into some different options by splicing to a given wire on the back of the main headlamp switch, so you have have the lamps operational with the low or high, but not when the parking lamps are on. Don't know if you want to get to that level of detail.
----------------
The switch diagram I have from a 500/550 kit, shows the order of the wires ( with the switch installed so up is on like a house switch )
Top = Ground
Middle = Yellow wire to the relay
Bottom = Green wire to lamp selection from above ( parking lamps, low beam, high beam )
You might have a different switch or were holding it upside down with the order you had. Not too sure which it is.
As for adding another lamp to the existing harness, the version I have shows a 15A fuse in the harness, which depending on the lamp wattage, the 3rd lamp would be right at the limit or just beyond it. Either way, add the 3rd lamp, and a harness for it.
You can use the same switch to operate the relay for the additional harness, by splicing the wire to terminal #86 ( on the 2nd relay ) to the yellow wire on the back of the switch ( basically jumpering pin #86 on relay #1 to relay #2 and the remainder of the install to the battery and the lamp are the same )
This is what Hella was trying to get at with the examples in the pictures.
so if you want to be able to have the lamps on with the high or low beams or parking lamps, you would splice the green wire to the parking lamp wire ( Ford this is the brown wire )
Same for low only or high only, splice the green wire to the correct wire for that function.
Q1 -> did that make sense ?
You can get into some different options by splicing to a given wire on the back of the main headlamp switch, so you have have the lamps operational with the low or high, but not when the parking lamps are on. Don't know if you want to get to that level of detail.
----------------
The switch diagram I have from a 500/550 kit, shows the order of the wires ( with the switch installed so up is on like a house switch )
Top = Ground
Middle = Yellow wire to the relay
Bottom = Green wire to lamp selection from above ( parking lamps, low beam, high beam )
You might have a different switch or were holding it upside down with the order you had. Not too sure which it is.
As for adding another lamp to the existing harness, the version I have shows a 15A fuse in the harness, which depending on the lamp wattage, the 3rd lamp would be right at the limit or just beyond it. Either way, add the 3rd lamp, and a harness for it.
You can use the same switch to operate the relay for the additional harness, by splicing the wire to terminal #86 ( on the 2nd relay ) to the yellow wire on the back of the switch ( basically jumpering pin #86 on relay #1 to relay #2 and the remainder of the install to the battery and the lamp are the same )
#3
awesome thankyou for your help. i would like to be able to turn the lights on whenever i want with the switch. so if i run my green wire to my cigarett lighter will that give me options to turn the lights on whenever? so basically you have to have constant 12v power right? thanks again!
ok ill run the second relay and run it to one switch like you told me, 2 switches would be dumb lol
ok ill run the second relay and run it to one switch like you told me, 2 switches would be dumb lol
Last edited by 04onefifty; 02-07-2012 at 09:18 AM.
#4
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Keep in mind, to the cigar lighter means that you can leave them on when the truck is off ( i.e. kill the battery ).
If you want them to be hot in Run position you can put an add-a-fuse in the fuse #13 slot, reinstall the 10A that was in that position, and add in a 1A for splicing the green wire to it.
fuse #13 is the fuse feeding the trailer tow battery charge relay coil ( and a few other things ).
This way, the key has to be in the run position to have the lamps work and removes the ability of being able to leave them on when the truck is off and kill the battery.
If you want them to be hot in Run position you can put an add-a-fuse in the fuse #13 slot, reinstall the 10A that was in that position, and add in a 1A for splicing the green wire to it.
fuse #13 is the fuse feeding the trailer tow battery charge relay coil ( and a few other things ).
This way, the key has to be in the run position to have the lamps work and removes the ability of being able to leave them on when the truck is off and kill the battery.
#7
I think what Steve was saying is that if you power it off of that circuit, you run the risk of walking away from the truck with the lights still on - which would kill the battery. If you go to a circuit that is only hot with the ignition on, you can't make that mistake.
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#9
I think what Steve was saying is that if you power it off of that circuit, you run the risk of walking away from the truck with the lights still on - which would kill the battery. If you go to a circuit that is only hot with the ignition on, you can't make that mistake.
#10
i hooked it into fuse 23 which lets me only turn the lights on when the key is on. got them working now. now i just need to run the second relay the same way.. thanks guys love this site!
#11
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fuse #13 is the fuse feeding the trailer tow battery charge relay coil ( and a few other things ), this is hot in run only.
Might want to check what fuse you used with the add-a-fuse.
#12
As I posted above :
fuse #13 is the fuse feeding the trailer tow battery charge relay coil ( and a few other things ), this is hot in run only.
Fuse #23 should be for the Right headlamp, which means you cannot use the aux lamps with only the parking lamps on, and this fuse is hot any time the main headlamp switch is on, and the MFS is in the low position ( key position not important ).
Might want to check what fuse you used with the add-a-fuse.
fuse #13 is the fuse feeding the trailer tow battery charge relay coil ( and a few other things ), this is hot in run only.
Fuse #23 should be for the Right headlamp, which means you cannot use the aux lamps with only the parking lamps on, and this fuse is hot any time the main headlamp switch is on, and the MFS is in the low position ( key position not important ).
Might want to check what fuse you used with the add-a-fuse.