Official F-150 Headlight Bulb Guide
#1
01-15-2011, 09:42 PM
Official F-150 Headlight Bulb Guide
This thread is to be used purely for informational (and in some cases, entertainment) puposes only. F150OL, IB, nor myself takes any responsibility for information posted in this thread. All information was researched and written by me. Photo credits are at the bottom.
Please be smart and disconnect your battery before attempting any electrical work on your vehicle.
------------------------------------------------------------
This guide was created to help everyone should you have any questions when it comes to main lighting on your Ford F-150. It covers years 1997-Present, and some exclusionary models.
First off, lets start with some basics. This following image is a up-to-date and correct guide that lists the bulb used in the headlamp and fog lamp for all F-150s. These are OEM reference numbers used for replacement only. This does not apply to non-OEM or aftermarket headlights.
Now, I will begin a review over each and every bulb that the F-150 can utilize. This includes the OEM specs (see picture above) and possible swaps to higher power bulbs.:
------------------
H-series:
------------------
H1- A medium sized bulb primarily used for auxiliary/fog/driving lamps, can also be used in some headlight lamps. Emits 1550 lumens of light @ 55W and uses a P14.5s base.
H3- A small, 55W bulb primarily used in auxiliary/fog/driving lamps, can also be used in some headlight lamps. Emits 1450 lumens of light, but utilizes a transverse-type filament. PK22s base, with pigtail for power.
H13- The H13 (incorrectly called "9008" by Ford) is a dual-filament bulb designed to replace the 9007 bulb. Its off-center low-beam filament burns at 55W and releases 1100 lumens of light. The focal center houses the high-beam filament which burns at 65W and 1700 lumens of light. Both are axial filaments and utilizes the P26t base.
----------------------
9000-series:
----------------------
9007- The 9007 (HB5) bulb, introduced in 1992, uses 12 Volts, has a 55 Watt low beam filament producing 1000 lumens, and a 65 watt high beam filament producing 1350 lumens. Popular design used by larger single-bulb headlights. Utilizes an axial filament, with a PX29t base.
9006- The 9006 (HB4) bulb is a single-filament bulb used in split-beam headlight designs as a low beam bulb. It puts out 55W @ 12.8vDC and 1000 lumens of light. Perfect for small or cramped housings. 90-degree P22d base with axial filament.
9005- The 9005 (HB3) bulb is a single-filament bulb used as a high beam bulb in a split-beam headlamp. It puts out 65W @ 12.8vDC and 1700 lumens of light. Perfect for small or cramped housings. 90-degree P20d base with an axial filament.
9011- The 9011 (HIR1) is a the high beam replacement of the older 9005 bulb. They are not designed to be interchanged (but it is possible). 65W @ 23500 lumens, and same heat output of a 9005, this is a great upgrade for high beams (and foglights) alike. ECE/SAE approved, halogen infrared type bulb. 90-degree PX20d base.
9012- The 9012 (HIR2) is the low-beam replacement of the older 9006 bulb. They are not designed to be interchanged (but it is possible). 55W @ 1870 lumens, and the same heat output of a 9006, this is a great upgrade for low beams (and foglights) alike. ECE/SAE approved, halogen infrared type bulb. 90-degree PX22d base.
----------------------
9100-series:
----------------------
9140- The 9140 (H10) bulb is a small, single-filament bulb uses primarily for fog or auxiliary lighting purposes. Emits 40W of power at 900 lumens, exceptional use for low-power, low-heat spaces. 90-degree PY20d base.
9145- The 9145 (H10) bulb is a more powerful version of the small 9140 bulb. Acceptable heat output for small spaces. 45W of power at 1100 lumens. 90-degree PY20d base.
9155- The 9155 (H10) bulb is the most powerful in the 9100-series family. Output of 55W and 1350 lumens of light. Highest heat potential, not recommended for small or plastic fog lamps. 90-degree PY20d base.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now that you have a handle on what is what, lets look at a very popular aspect of swaps. I have already covered information on the halogen to HID headlight swap >>>HERE<<< so I will focus on halogen replacements from here on out.
Keep in mind the bulbs that came with your truck (and listed above) were chosen by Ford for their price, acceptable heat output, and safety. Like most aftermarket products, there is room to do better, with headlights surely included. But be aware that should you venture into the world of aftermarket lights, you risk fire, melting housings, broken glass, toxic fumes, and days of hassle trying to call a customer help center in India if you are not careful and do your research. Hopefully this guide will help you, and again, the author nor F150OL takes part in your activities. You assume risk for all your modifications.
Choosing your bulb
Unless you plan to hunt down every bulb ever made and put them under a scope to get accurate readings, there's many different choices for the "best" bulb. Tip #1 is to avoid crazy advertising. And here's how.
Many companies are doing their best to get your dollar. And you can bet they are willing to lie to do it. Many offer "higher wattage" or a different type of gas filling, and even coat the bulb in pretty colors. But you should be aware, some are fake, and can even hinder light output. As a standard tungsten-filament bulb burns, it emits light around 3500K (yellowish white). And there is a reason for this. Yellow is the exact opposite of black. Same principal as yellow chalk on a blackboard. So at night (and foul weather conditions), yellow is actually the best color for light output. Many bulbs that you can find in an auto parts store usually have some sort of blue glass. This is an amethyst coating applied by the manufacturers. It is part of the marketing gimmick used to trick customers into believing that their light emits a whiter and brighter light. This is true, but also false. If you get the natural color of a tungsten-filament bulb (3500K, slightly yellow) and mix it with the blue coating, you get a white light. Because of the wavelength properties of white versus yellow, you eye readily sees this increase in white light therefore making you believe you are getting more light. But you are not. Blue is the shortest wavelength light, and since the bulb emits so little of it (remember, yellow), the blue coating is acting as a filter. So you get less luminous output, at the expense of more "white" light. Many people believe this is a trade-off, but like we on F150OL here say: "to each his own." Keeping in mind we are talking about the standard bulb (no specific manufacturer yet) there are different styles. And with the truck market, there are many different manufacturers. Some good, some bad. For example, Sylvania Silverstars appear to emit more white light than a standard General Electric bulb, but they use an expensive inert gas and tightly-controlled filament to get a higher output. Therefore the service length declines dramatically. So higher output but with a filter, you get the same luminous output, but a shorter life:
Example:
9007 (low beam) Bulb comparison
GE Nighthawk: 1350 lumens @ 320 hours
Sylvania Silverstar: 1340 lumens @ 250 hours
While I'm not bashing Silverstars (they are the only brand I tend to use, and compared to the other brands carried by my local retailers, they are my preferential choice), I'm just pointing out obvious facts. Let's move on to power.
Many companies (including PIAA) like to advertise that their bulbs can emit up to 85W from a 55W socket. The "55W = 85W" claims are a scam. The blue amethyst coating on the glass tints the light so that it is "whiter". Most bulbs that actually produces more light (i.e., higher-wattage bulbs used for spot lights on tractors) also burn with a whiter color than standard-wattage bulbs. With these color-coated bulbs, only the light color, and not the actual light output, imitates a high-power bulb. The laws of physics are the laws of physics. They don't bend even for the highest-paid advertising agency. There is no way to get "85 watts of light for 55 watts of electricity." So don't fall for that trick. That basically covers the advertising scams. Apart from word of mouth, I would check out several retailers (make sure they have good warranties!) and decide which bulb is best for you. Stylin' Trucks compiled a great guide (>>HERE<<)to different types of popular brands. Keep in mind what I told you. A bulb is a bulb. While some may be a bit different, no one has a superior rating or power output. Decide which is best for your price range and let it rip.
(SPACE RESERVED FOR FUTURE INFORMATION)
Feel free to contact me to include any additional information you think might be relevant.
Please be smart and disconnect your battery before attempting any electrical work on your vehicle.
------------------------------------------------------------
This guide was created to help everyone should you have any questions when it comes to main lighting on your Ford F-150. It covers years 1997-Present, and some exclusionary models.
First off, lets start with some basics. This following image is a up-to-date and correct guide that lists the bulb used in the headlamp and fog lamp for all F-150s. These are OEM reference numbers used for replacement only. This does not apply to non-OEM or aftermarket headlights.
Now, I will begin a review over each and every bulb that the F-150 can utilize. This includes the OEM specs (see picture above) and possible swaps to higher power bulbs.:
------------------
H-series:
------------------
H1- A medium sized bulb primarily used for auxiliary/fog/driving lamps, can also be used in some headlight lamps. Emits 1550 lumens of light @ 55W and uses a P14.5s base.
H3- A small, 55W bulb primarily used in auxiliary/fog/driving lamps, can also be used in some headlight lamps. Emits 1450 lumens of light, but utilizes a transverse-type filament. PK22s base, with pigtail for power.
H13- The H13 (incorrectly called "9008" by Ford) is a dual-filament bulb designed to replace the 9007 bulb. Its off-center low-beam filament burns at 55W and releases 1100 lumens of light. The focal center houses the high-beam filament which burns at 65W and 1700 lumens of light. Both are axial filaments and utilizes the P26t base.
----------------------
9000-series:
----------------------
9007- The 9007 (HB5) bulb, introduced in 1992, uses 12 Volts, has a 55 Watt low beam filament producing 1000 lumens, and a 65 watt high beam filament producing 1350 lumens. Popular design used by larger single-bulb headlights. Utilizes an axial filament, with a PX29t base.
9006- The 9006 (HB4) bulb is a single-filament bulb used in split-beam headlight designs as a low beam bulb. It puts out 55W @ 12.8vDC and 1000 lumens of light. Perfect for small or cramped housings. 90-degree P22d base with axial filament.
9005- The 9005 (HB3) bulb is a single-filament bulb used as a high beam bulb in a split-beam headlamp. It puts out 65W @ 12.8vDC and 1700 lumens of light. Perfect for small or cramped housings. 90-degree P20d base with an axial filament.
9011- The 9011 (HIR1) is a the high beam replacement of the older 9005 bulb. They are not designed to be interchanged (but it is possible). 65W @ 23500 lumens, and same heat output of a 9005, this is a great upgrade for high beams (and foglights) alike. ECE/SAE approved, halogen infrared type bulb. 90-degree PX20d base.
9012- The 9012 (HIR2) is the low-beam replacement of the older 9006 bulb. They are not designed to be interchanged (but it is possible). 55W @ 1870 lumens, and the same heat output of a 9006, this is a great upgrade for low beams (and foglights) alike. ECE/SAE approved, halogen infrared type bulb. 90-degree PX22d base.
----------------------
9100-series:
----------------------
9140- The 9140 (H10) bulb is a small, single-filament bulb uses primarily for fog or auxiliary lighting purposes. Emits 40W of power at 900 lumens, exceptional use for low-power, low-heat spaces. 90-degree PY20d base.
9145- The 9145 (H10) bulb is a more powerful version of the small 9140 bulb. Acceptable heat output for small spaces. 45W of power at 1100 lumens. 90-degree PY20d base.
9155- The 9155 (H10) bulb is the most powerful in the 9100-series family. Output of 55W and 1350 lumens of light. Highest heat potential, not recommended for small or plastic fog lamps. 90-degree PY20d base.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now that you have a handle on what is what, lets look at a very popular aspect of swaps. I have already covered information on the halogen to HID headlight swap >>>HERE<<< so I will focus on halogen replacements from here on out.
Keep in mind the bulbs that came with your truck (and listed above) were chosen by Ford for their price, acceptable heat output, and safety. Like most aftermarket products, there is room to do better, with headlights surely included. But be aware that should you venture into the world of aftermarket lights, you risk fire, melting housings, broken glass, toxic fumes, and days of hassle trying to call a customer help center in India if you are not careful and do your research. Hopefully this guide will help you, and again, the author nor F150OL takes part in your activities. You assume risk for all your modifications.
Choosing your bulb
Unless you plan to hunt down every bulb ever made and put them under a scope to get accurate readings, there's many different choices for the "best" bulb. Tip #1 is to avoid crazy advertising. And here's how.
Many companies are doing their best to get your dollar. And you can bet they are willing to lie to do it. Many offer "higher wattage" or a different type of gas filling, and even coat the bulb in pretty colors. But you should be aware, some are fake, and can even hinder light output. As a standard tungsten-filament bulb burns, it emits light around 3500K (yellowish white). And there is a reason for this. Yellow is the exact opposite of black. Same principal as yellow chalk on a blackboard. So at night (and foul weather conditions), yellow is actually the best color for light output. Many bulbs that you can find in an auto parts store usually have some sort of blue glass. This is an amethyst coating applied by the manufacturers. It is part of the marketing gimmick used to trick customers into believing that their light emits a whiter and brighter light. This is true, but also false. If you get the natural color of a tungsten-filament bulb (3500K, slightly yellow) and mix it with the blue coating, you get a white light. Because of the wavelength properties of white versus yellow, you eye readily sees this increase in white light therefore making you believe you are getting more light. But you are not. Blue is the shortest wavelength light, and since the bulb emits so little of it (remember, yellow), the blue coating is acting as a filter. So you get less luminous output, at the expense of more "white" light. Many people believe this is a trade-off, but like we on F150OL here say: "to each his own." Keeping in mind we are talking about the standard bulb (no specific manufacturer yet) there are different styles. And with the truck market, there are many different manufacturers. Some good, some bad. For example, Sylvania Silverstars appear to emit more white light than a standard General Electric bulb, but they use an expensive inert gas and tightly-controlled filament to get a higher output. Therefore the service length declines dramatically. So higher output but with a filter, you get the same luminous output, but a shorter life:
Example:
9007 (low beam) Bulb comparison
GE Nighthawk: 1350 lumens @ 320 hours
Sylvania Silverstar: 1340 lumens @ 250 hours
While I'm not bashing Silverstars (they are the only brand I tend to use, and compared to the other brands carried by my local retailers, they are my preferential choice), I'm just pointing out obvious facts. Let's move on to power.
Many companies (including PIAA) like to advertise that their bulbs can emit up to 85W from a 55W socket. The "55W = 85W" claims are a scam. The blue amethyst coating on the glass tints the light so that it is "whiter". Most bulbs that actually produces more light (i.e., higher-wattage bulbs used for spot lights on tractors) also burn with a whiter color than standard-wattage bulbs. With these color-coated bulbs, only the light color, and not the actual light output, imitates a high-power bulb. The laws of physics are the laws of physics. They don't bend even for the highest-paid advertising agency. There is no way to get "85 watts of light for 55 watts of electricity." So don't fall for that trick. That basically covers the advertising scams. Apart from word of mouth, I would check out several retailers (make sure they have good warranties!) and decide which bulb is best for you. Stylin' Trucks compiled a great guide (>>HERE<<)to different types of popular brands. Keep in mind what I told you. A bulb is a bulb. While some may be a bit different, no one has a superior rating or power output. Decide which is best for your price range and let it rip.
(SPACE RESERVED FOR FUTURE INFORMATION)
Feel free to contact me to include any additional information you think might be relevant.
Last edited by Raptor05121; 02-02-2011 at 02:00 PM.
#2
01-15-2011, 09:42 PM
Headlights
As discussed above, I will go into further detail here for name-brand bulbs and their color. I will list all available information I can find, and unless otherwise noted, all information listed is based on in-house testing of a 9007 bulb (picture is for bulb variation only, not actual product), with prices listed for a pair.
Manufacturer: General Electric
Model: T4.75
Output: 1345/990 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 150/400 hrs
Color: 3100K
Retails: ~$20-$25
This, is the definition of efficient. This is a general bulb, with a relatively normal service life. Ford chose this for is simple and basic design, life expectancy, and cost. For a normal driver, this bulb should last about two years. Its lighting isn't the best, but does meet DOT standards. Gas-filled, hard-glass surface, this is an all around great bulb for the everyday driver. Recommended.
Manufacturer: Sylvania
Model: Silverstar
Output: 1340/1000 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 75/200 hrs
Color: 4000K
Retails: ~$30-$35
The Sylvania Silverstar is a great product for a knowledgeable car fanatic looking for more of a performance bulb. The Silverstars feature a blue amethyst coating which cancels out the natural yellow hue of halogens and bumps the color up to 4000K. It also features a thinner (and more fragile, Sylvania's are known for VERY short lifespans) tungsten filament, which increases power output slightly, but a very short service length. For a normal driver, expect these to last no longer than a year. (It should be noted that the two pairs I had lased 6 and 8 months, respectively). They do offer more and a whiter light compared with the OEM General Electrics, but if you do not feel like replacing these often, I would stick with something a bit cheaper. Recommended (if you can't afford the Ultras).
Manufacturer: Sylvania
Model: Silverstar Ultras
Output: 1350/1000 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 100/250 hrs
Color: 4100K
Retails: ~$40-$50
The Silverstar Ultras are the basic Silverstars with a thicker coating of amethyst to give it a bluer color and the symbolic "gold" glare cap to identify the Ultras (marketing ploy). The only difference between the two is the life span, with the Ultras lasting longer than the regular Silverstars. Luminous efficacy remains the same, but since it has a thicker coating, you do get more white light, but less luminous output (if that makes sense). Out of the ones you would find at an auto parts store, I would be reaching for these, but by no means are they the best. Recommended.
Manufacturer: IPCW (In Pro Car Wear)
Model: Wizard Ultra White
Output: ????/???? lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: ???/??? hrs
Color: 5000K (estimate)
Retails: ~$20
These next ones are something special. They are advertised by ICPW (I am unsure about who manufactures them) but these fall under the category of "ricer lights". They have a VERY thick coating. They emit light near the 5000K limit and no doubt very short lifetime. These will be the ones you see with flashy advertising at your local auto parts store. Their website lacks any contact information and after an extensive search, I was unable to locate any service length, luminous output or color numbers. I called around and several customer reps even told me most of the in-house bulbs (Nokya and the Streetglows are all made by the same company in China). A very low-tech bulb, you couldn't give me a pair of these.
Manufacturer: PIAA
Model: Extreme White Plus
Output: ????/???? lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: ???/??? hrs
Color: 4000K
Retails: ~$50-$80
PIAA is famous for their 65/55W -> 80/100W claims, and these bulbs are an example of it. They are made in Japan and feature a 4000K coating like the Silverstars, but I was unable to locate any solid output or lifetime numbers. Their claims are based on the color output rivals the 80/100W bulbs, but do not be fooled. PIAA does make good off-road lights, but these are not them. Insanely high price makes these unattractive to prospective buyers (or even more foolish for thinking they're worth the money)
Manufacturer: General Electric
Model: Nighthawks
Output: 1195/690 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 150/320 hrs
Color: 3450K
Retails: ~$30
These bulbs are listed as a few of the "good ones". They have a lower light output, with no coating, so they give off the proper yellow light. They do last longer than the Sylvania's which makes them a prospective buy for peopling looking for a mix of life/performance. The tip of the bulb has a thin coating to help color the bulb past OE standards. Recommended.
Manufacturer: Phillips
Model: Xtreme Night Vision
Output: 1345/1105 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 150/320 hrs
Color: 3540K
Retails: ~$40
The Phillips (like the GEs) are pretty good bulbs. Made in a quality-like environment in Germany, they in fact compete with the Nighthawks. They do offer more power, and the same life span. I cannot seem to find a downside to these bulbs other than the higher price. Recommended.
(More bulbs later!)
I was going to rate and list Luminics, Streetglow, and Nokya but I can't think of anything positive to say about them. They are a waste of money, and they are NOT DOT/SAE compliant They cause excessive glare and you should avoid these bulbs like the plague.
As discussed above, I will go into further detail here for name-brand bulbs and their color. I will list all available information I can find, and unless otherwise noted, all information listed is based on in-house testing of a 9007 bulb (picture is for bulb variation only, not actual product), with prices listed for a pair.
Manufacturer: General Electric
Model: T4.75
Output: 1345/990 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 150/400 hrs
Color: 3100K
Retails: ~$20-$25
This, is the definition of efficient. This is a general bulb, with a relatively normal service life. Ford chose this for is simple and basic design, life expectancy, and cost. For a normal driver, this bulb should last about two years. Its lighting isn't the best, but does meet DOT standards. Gas-filled, hard-glass surface, this is an all around great bulb for the everyday driver. Recommended.
Manufacturer: Sylvania
Model: Silverstar
Output: 1340/1000 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 75/200 hrs
Color: 4000K
Retails: ~$30-$35
The Sylvania Silverstar is a great product for a knowledgeable car fanatic looking for more of a performance bulb. The Silverstars feature a blue amethyst coating which cancels out the natural yellow hue of halogens and bumps the color up to 4000K. It also features a thinner (and more fragile, Sylvania's are known for VERY short lifespans) tungsten filament, which increases power output slightly, but a very short service length. For a normal driver, expect these to last no longer than a year. (It should be noted that the two pairs I had lased 6 and 8 months, respectively). They do offer more and a whiter light compared with the OEM General Electrics, but if you do not feel like replacing these often, I would stick with something a bit cheaper. Recommended (if you can't afford the Ultras).
Manufacturer: Sylvania
Model: Silverstar Ultras
Output: 1350/1000 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 100/250 hrs
Color: 4100K
Retails: ~$40-$50
The Silverstar Ultras are the basic Silverstars with a thicker coating of amethyst to give it a bluer color and the symbolic "gold" glare cap to identify the Ultras (marketing ploy). The only difference between the two is the life span, with the Ultras lasting longer than the regular Silverstars. Luminous efficacy remains the same, but since it has a thicker coating, you do get more white light, but less luminous output (if that makes sense). Out of the ones you would find at an auto parts store, I would be reaching for these, but by no means are they the best. Recommended.
Manufacturer: IPCW (In Pro Car Wear)
Model: Wizard Ultra White
Output: ????/???? lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: ???/??? hrs
Color: 5000K (estimate)
Retails: ~$20
These next ones are something special. They are advertised by ICPW (I am unsure about who manufactures them) but these fall under the category of "ricer lights". They have a VERY thick coating. They emit light near the 5000K limit and no doubt very short lifetime. These will be the ones you see with flashy advertising at your local auto parts store. Their website lacks any contact information and after an extensive search, I was unable to locate any service length, luminous output or color numbers. I called around and several customer reps even told me most of the in-house bulbs (Nokya and the Streetglows are all made by the same company in China). A very low-tech bulb, you couldn't give me a pair of these.
Manufacturer: PIAA
Model: Extreme White Plus
Output: ????/???? lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: ???/??? hrs
Color: 4000K
Retails: ~$50-$80
PIAA is famous for their 65/55W -> 80/100W claims, and these bulbs are an example of it. They are made in Japan and feature a 4000K coating like the Silverstars, but I was unable to locate any solid output or lifetime numbers. Their claims are based on the color output rivals the 80/100W bulbs, but do not be fooled. PIAA does make good off-road lights, but these are not them. Insanely high price makes these unattractive to prospective buyers (or even more foolish for thinking they're worth the money)
Manufacturer: General Electric
Model: Nighthawks
Output: 1195/690 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 150/320 hrs
Color: 3450K
Retails: ~$30
These bulbs are listed as a few of the "good ones". They have a lower light output, with no coating, so they give off the proper yellow light. They do last longer than the Sylvania's which makes them a prospective buy for peopling looking for a mix of life/performance. The tip of the bulb has a thin coating to help color the bulb past OE standards. Recommended.
Manufacturer: Phillips
Model: Xtreme Night Vision
Output: 1345/1105 lumens
Wattage: 65/55W
Lifetime: 150/320 hrs
Color: 3540K
Retails: ~$40
The Phillips (like the GEs) are pretty good bulbs. Made in a quality-like environment in Germany, they in fact compete with the Nighthawks. They do offer more power, and the same life span. I cannot seem to find a downside to these bulbs other than the higher price. Recommended.
(More bulbs later!)
I was going to rate and list Luminics, Streetglow, and Nokya but I can't think of anything positive to say about them. They are a waste of money, and they are NOT DOT/SAE compliant They cause excessive glare and you should avoid these bulbs like the plague.
Last edited by Raptor05121; 01-16-2011 at 04:37 PM.
#3
01-16-2011, 04:33 PM
Fog lights
So, you want to increase the light output down under to fill in the black hole? You've come to the right place. Here I will let you know what is and isn't safe to run in your truck.
Most vehicles come with either the 9140 or 9145 bulb (see chart above). The only difference between the two is wattage output. The 9140 puts out 40W of power, and the 9145 puts out 45W of power with 900 and 1100 lumens, respectively. There is a reason for this madness: HEAT. Chances are, you have a plastic fog light assembly. If so, you want to stay ~20% within OEM specs to avoid melting your lights and possible risk of fire. For vehicles with larger or metal housings, you can safely swap larger bulbs.
Now, if you scroll up and look at the bases of bulb, you will see the 9005, 9006 and 9100 series fog lamps all share the same base. WRONG. They are all different (9140, 9145, and 9155 share the same base). BUT. They are SLIGHTLY different. So with some force and dexterity, you will be able to put and bulb in any socket. For example, if you have a 9145 45W bulb, you CAN fit a 65W 9005 bulb in the same socket. The only difference is a slight off-adjustment of one of the three retainer lines (see above). However, you must be careful.
Vehicles equipped with plastic, round fogs (2006-2011 F-150, exc. Raptor) should not install bulbs over 45W of power! Since they come with 9140, a 9145 would be a good swap. Do not install 9155, 9005, or 9006 bulbs, you WILL melt your housings![/b]
Trucks with the rectangular (2004-2005) or metal housings (STX) are free to increase to highest wattage available (9005, 9011)
This is a flow chart, from least powerful to most powerful halogen drop-in replacements. Heat rating (H) is on a scale from 1 to 5, 1 being coolest and 5 being hottest.
9140- (40W @ 900 lu/H1.5) H10 not a good upgrade bulb, and OEM for some fog lamps. Next step: 9145
9145- (45W @ 1100 lu/H2) H10 bulb. Can be used as an upgrade from 9140 for slightly more light output without risking melting. Next step: 9155
9155- (55W @ 1350 lu/H3.5) H10, great upgrade (if you can handle the heat) from 9145. Next step: 9005
9005- (65W @ 1700 lu/H5) This is a great upgrade for those with metal/glass fog lamps or large housings. Next step: 9011
9011- (65W @ 2350 lu/H5) This is the HIR1. Can be swapped in place of the 9005 with minimal cutting. No heat increase (in comparison of 9005).
9006- (55W @ 1000 lu/H4) This would be used in the stock 1997 & 1998 F-150 fog lights. You can swap to the higher-output HIR2 9012 bulbs or use a different brand 9006 for more power. Next step: 9012
9012- (55W @ 1870 lu/H4) HIR2 bulb. Can be swapped in place of the 9006 with minimal cutting. 55W @ 1870 lumens. No heat increase (in comparison of 9006).
H3- (55W @ 1450 luH3) 55W transverse bulb. You can upgrade to 100W H3, but caution for heat. Next step: H3C HID.
H1- (55W @ 1550 lu/H3) 55W axial filament bulb. Can be upgraded to 100W H1, but caution for heat. Next step: H1 HID
So, you want to increase the light output down under to fill in the black hole? You've come to the right place. Here I will let you know what is and isn't safe to run in your truck.
Most vehicles come with either the 9140 or 9145 bulb (see chart above). The only difference between the two is wattage output. The 9140 puts out 40W of power, and the 9145 puts out 45W of power with 900 and 1100 lumens, respectively. There is a reason for this madness: HEAT. Chances are, you have a plastic fog light assembly. If so, you want to stay ~20% within OEM specs to avoid melting your lights and possible risk of fire. For vehicles with larger or metal housings, you can safely swap larger bulbs.
Now, if you scroll up and look at the bases of bulb, you will see the 9005, 9006 and 9100 series fog lamps all share the same base. WRONG. They are all different (9140, 9145, and 9155 share the same base). BUT. They are SLIGHTLY different. So with some force and dexterity, you will be able to put and bulb in any socket. For example, if you have a 9145 45W bulb, you CAN fit a 65W 9005 bulb in the same socket. The only difference is a slight off-adjustment of one of the three retainer lines (see above). However, you must be careful.
Vehicles equipped with plastic, round fogs (2006-2011 F-150, exc. Raptor) should not install bulbs over 45W of power! Since they come with 9140, a 9145 would be a good swap. Do not install 9155, 9005, or 9006 bulbs, you WILL melt your housings![/b]
Trucks with the rectangular (2004-2005) or metal housings (STX) are free to increase to highest wattage available (9005, 9011)
This is a flow chart, from least powerful to most powerful halogen drop-in replacements. Heat rating (H) is on a scale from 1 to 5, 1 being coolest and 5 being hottest.
9140- (40W @ 900 lu/H1.5) H10 not a good upgrade bulb, and OEM for some fog lamps. Next step: 9145
9145- (45W @ 1100 lu/H2) H10 bulb. Can be used as an upgrade from 9140 for slightly more light output without risking melting. Next step: 9155
9155- (55W @ 1350 lu/H3.5) H10, great upgrade (if you can handle the heat) from 9145. Next step: 9005
9005- (65W @ 1700 lu/H5) This is a great upgrade for those with metal/glass fog lamps or large housings. Next step: 9011
9011- (65W @ 2350 lu/H5) This is the HIR1. Can be swapped in place of the 9005 with minimal cutting. No heat increase (in comparison of 9005).
9006- (55W @ 1000 lu/H4) This would be used in the stock 1997 & 1998 F-150 fog lights. You can swap to the higher-output HIR2 9012 bulbs or use a different brand 9006 for more power. Next step: 9012
9012- (55W @ 1870 lu/H4) HIR2 bulb. Can be swapped in place of the 9006 with minimal cutting. 55W @ 1870 lumens. No heat increase (in comparison of 9006).
H3- (55W @ 1450 luH3) 55W transverse bulb. You can upgrade to 100W H3, but caution for heat. Next step: H3C HID.
H1- (55W @ 1550 lu/H3) 55W axial filament bulb. Can be upgraded to 100W H1, but caution for heat. Next step: H1 HID
Last edited by Raptor05121; 02-02-2011 at 02:22 PM.
#4
01-16-2011, 04:41 PM
Sources:
Daniel Stern Lighting- http://www.danielsternlighting.com
Wikipedia- http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_lamp_types
Don Schnapp Bulbs- http://www.donsbulbs.com
Candle Power, Inc.- http://www.candlepowerinc.com/products.html
Lim Battery- http://www.limbat.com.sg/htm1/halo.htm
Osram Sylvania- http://www.sylvania.com
Stylin' Trucks- http://www.stylintrucks.com
Daniel Stern Lighting- http://www.danielsternlighting.com
Wikipedia- http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_lamp_types
Don Schnapp Bulbs- http://www.donsbulbs.com
Candle Power, Inc.- http://www.candlepowerinc.com/products.html
Lim Battery- http://www.limbat.com.sg/htm1/halo.htm
Osram Sylvania- http://www.sylvania.com
Stylin' Trucks- http://www.stylintrucks.com
#6
01-28-2011, 11:16 AM
#7
02-02-2011, 02:01 PM
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#9
03-20-2011, 11:25 PM
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#11
08-23-2011, 08:58 AM
#12
09-25-2011, 12:55 PM
#13
09-25-2011, 05:52 PM
I need to upgrade that because I was speaking selfishly when I typed that. My fog lamps are aftermarket ones from a Mustang company. While they are OEM Spec for Mustang Cobras, 03 STX, 02-03 HD, and 06+ Escapes, since they are aftermarket they are quartz glass lenses and stainless steel reflector bowls. The OEMs from the factory (like yours) should be plastic, so 9145 is fine.
#14
02-14-2012, 10:44 PM
Not for most of our trucks, but for anyone that can use the 9005 or 9006 bulb stock you REALLY should consider dropping a little more $ and getting the 9011 or 9012 instead. They can be found cheap on Amazon. These HIR bulbs really are a great upgrade over standard.
I replaced the bulbs in my Toyota with these and the improvement was significant. I had to modify the wings that lock the base into the housing just a tad. It was pretty easy by simply comparing the old bulb with the new bulb.
I replaced the bulbs in my Toyota with these and the improvement was significant. I had to modify the wings that lock the base into the housing just a tad. It was pretty easy by simply comparing the old bulb with the new bulb.
#15
02-15-2012, 09:49 AM
Not for most of our trucks, but for anyone that can use the 9005 or 9006 bulb stock you REALLY should consider dropping a little more $ and getting the 9011 or 9012 instead. They can be found cheap on Amazon. These HIR bulbs really are a great upgrade over standard.
I replaced the bulbs in my Toyota with these and the improvement was significant. I had to modify the wings that lock the base into the housing just a tad. It was pretty easy by simply comparing the old bulb with the new bulb.
I replaced the bulbs in my Toyota with these and the improvement was significant. I had to modify the wings that lock the base into the housing just a tad. It was pretty easy by simply comparing the old bulb with the new bulb.