Last year at about this time my A/c was weak barely blowing cool air. Took it in and they rechatged my A/C, i have a tiny leak somewhere. Once they recharged it last spring , it lasted the entire summer with no problems. This year i have the same issue again, but i would like to do it myself. i have the cans (kit with hoses and adapers) also i picked up a leak fix can as well.
Does anyone have a link with the steps on how to do this? pics would be great!
I have replaced my heater core on my own, so this should be a breeze. I just need some steps.
Meaning no disrespect, there are two ways to do it. The right way and the wrong way. If you have a leak as you suspect, have the system evacuated and the leak fixed, it may just be a o-ring. To try and add freon and stop leak might be just a waste of time and money. When it comes to a/c doing it right the first time is usually the cheapest and the best. Because if you make a mistake, big $$$$$$$$. Leave it to the pros. MTC
Meaning no disrespect, there are two ways to do it. The right way and the wrong way. If you have a leak as you suspect, have the system evacuated and the leak fixed, it may just be a o-ring. To try and add freon and stop leak might be just a waste of time and money. When it comes to a/c doing it right the first time is usually the cheapest and the best. Because if you make a mistake, big $$$$$$$$. Leave it to the pros. MTC
Thanks for the info, if by chance it is a simple o-ring, how would i figure that out? where are the o-rings located?
I am not very familiar with the 1999 but there is more to it than just evacuating the freon. You need a vacuum pump to evacuate the system completely of all contaminents to do it right. You will also have to add oil to the system. You will need a charging station to make sure you are putting in the right amount of freon and oil in. If you put too much in you blow something. I applaud your exhuberance, but , the risk of damage is very great and unless you find the leak you will wind up spending more time and/or money. Get it done professionally that way you are covered if some thing goes wrong.
Firstly, where is the low side valve? I found 1 valve on the passengers side, but it has a black cap on it??
How do you discharge the old stuff?
First:
Don't let what is in the system bleed off. Just add to it.
The pressure tap is on the accumulator mounted to the firewall. It is an aluminum looking can. and it does have a cap on the connector.
Usually where there is a leak in the system, there will be dirt and oil selected. Just trace out all the lines and look for anything obvious, as I said where there is a leak there will be oil and dirt. Sometimes it can also be rubber lines leaking
Just follow the directions that came with the kit. But be sure to bleed the o2 out of the connection line, if the directions tell you to do so. Moisture in your system can cause hydrochloric acid deposits to collect in the orifice tube if you don't purge the line.
It's simple to do, and if you're not experienced with A/C workings. Just add one can per session. It is good to monitor the pressure on the high side, but if you don't have the gages, you'll be OK just adding one can.
Most of the cans are 12oz, but I've seen some at the parts store that are larger. Our whole systems hold less than three cans.
It is better to undercharge it than to overcharge, so keep that in mind.
You can tell when the can is empty by the temp of the can. As you start, you will notice the can gets cols and can frost over. When it's empty it will warm up.
Thanks Tumba, The kit i have is ozone friendly ( www.redteck.com)
comes with a small oil release filter and a pressure gage.
this pressure tap on the accumulator, does it have a blue plastic cap on it? or is it a different color? i know some vehicles actually place an "L" on the blue cap as well.
Thanks Tumba, The kit i have is ozone friendly ( www.redteck.com)
comes with a small oil release filter and a pressure gage.
this pressure tap on the accumulator, does it have a blue plastic cap on it? or is it a different color? i know some vehicles actually place an "L" on the blue cap as well.
I think it's the only cap on there. But anyway, your connector will only fit one thing on the whole truck
Thanks Tumba, The kit i have is ozone friendly ( www.redteck.com)
comes with a small oil release filter and a pressure gage.
this pressure tap on the accumulator, does it have a blue plastic cap on it? or is it a different color? i know some vehicles actually place an "L" on the blue cap as well.
First take that can of leak fix and return it. If they won't take it back just throw it away. Not only will it likely cause more damage than it fixes, if you ever have to take it to a professional a/c shop and they test for stop leak and find it in your system they probably won't touch it.
the above poster has good advice on the leak fix it will cause more damage than repair ( i know from first hand experience using it). you can get a can of freon that has the uv dye in it and put that in it then use a black light to find the leak or the little lights they sell for detecting it at the parts store.
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