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  #31  
Old 03-05-2009, 12:23 PM
JMC JMC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torkum View Post
NYfordguy, you might be interested in this method of access to the blend door
www.heatertreater.net
Good find. Save that link. In some instances a leaking heater core will short out the actuator motor. This video shows what is involved in the removal of the actuator motor.
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4.6 to 5.4 swap, M5OD w/ Hurst short throw, Warn XD9000i, OBX Long Tubes /w Cats, Troyer E-fans, P-1SC Procharger @15psi, Troyer tuned. ;)
Swap notes; http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ml#post3570245
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  #32  
Old 03-06-2009, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torkum View Post
NYfordguy, you might be interested in this method of access to the blend door
www.heatertreater.net
wish I knew about him when I replaced my blend door. I wouldn't have hacked my **** up like he did, but I would have bought his improved door.
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1999 F150 4x4 5.4, T3 front end replacement (the cow killer), T3 straight rear bumper 8" drop, Skyjacker AAL, T-bar maxed, Toyo Open Country, AT 285/70/17, Flowmaster true dual exhaust, Kobalt skinny truck box, Icom IC-V8000, Cobra CB radio, tint, Yeah that about covers it...
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  #33  
Old 07-03-2009, 10:50 AM
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Thanks Quintin,
Am in the middle to trying to get my Blend Door replaced. You're post is helping a lot. Still a lot of learn as I go on items in my '99 F150, but it would have been a nightmare without your help.

The vid at the site for the cut and fix(altenate) method was a help, in that, I used it to get the vent off the bottom and remove the actuator to see if I got bits and pieces of my blend door shaft. Sure enough.. what was left of the shaft fell out in my hand. Not one to butcher up a car when it is just labor needed to do it right, I jumped off into it. Only working in cool evenings, 3 days and dash about to come out. But, I have learned that many of the screws I took out were not required and reinstalling the Dash will go much quicker.

8

Last edited by Eight; 07-03-2009 at 06:29 PM. Reason: clarification
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  #34  
Old 07-04-2009, 12:00 AM
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You might want to reconsider putting those screws back in unless you can handle dash rattle
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  #35  
Old 07-11-2009, 02:44 PM
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LOL, I will..
I meant that the removal wasn't required to get the dash out and I wasted the time taking them out.. but for sure will put em back..
in fact I have.
Was a success in the end. A lot of labor but saved over $1,000 and all works..
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  #36  
Old 07-11-2009, 06:24 PM
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Congrats, you've probably done the most tedious job you will ever have to do on your truck.
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  #37  
Old 11-08-2009, 12:54 AM
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Blend door motor(actuator) replacement

I took the dash apart today on my 2003 Expedition and removed the acuator. I took it apart and found broken plastic gears inside. Verified blend door functioning properly and put it all back together. I am glad I did not have to take the plenum apart because the way Ford made it I would have had to remove the whole thing and disconnect the heatyer core lines and evaporator lines. Took me about 14 hours start to finish but took breaks for lunch and dinner and had to run to the parts store. Thanks for the pictures. Although they did not match it gave me a good idea what to look for and where.
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  #38  
Old 11-20-2009, 03:53 PM
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1998 Expedition

So this includes a 1998 Expedition XLT 4X4 4.6?

I get heat front and back but only for a minute or two. After that it's cool/ambient.

Coolant system has been flushed; new thermostat installed; and it appears good flow through heater core.

Help

Kevin

ksoren1779@aol.com

Last edited by ksoren; 11-20-2009 at 03:54 PM. Reason: email address
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  #39  
Old 11-20-2009, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksoren View Post
So this includes a 1998 Expedition XLT 4X4 4.6?

I get heat front and back but only for a minute or two. After that it's cool/ambient.

Coolant system has been flushed; new thermostat installed; and it appears good flow through heater core.

Help

Kevin

ksoren1779@aol.com
You've got the same set up
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  #40  
Old 11-21-2009, 11:16 AM
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i have been on the blend door and temp control not working discussion threads. I have opened the lower dash to access the acuator and it is working. With a mirror i don't see any cracks around the area that the acuator slides into. Before tearing more apart is there a way to see if the core is plugged? I have run water through it and it seem's to be fine. I am just disconnecting the hose that goes from firewall to front of engine and forcing water through it. Any suggestions? I don't want to do the blend door unless i am sure that is it. Thanks for the help.
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  #41  
Old 11-29-2009, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyf150 View Post
But i'm glad i own a 92.
i have the same feeling man. i'm glad for my 94
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  #42  
Old 12-11-2009, 07:22 PM
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1999 F150 Heater Problem (suspect the blend door)

Hello - I have a 99 F150 (manual 5 speed 216K miles) where the heater is not working properly. I've changed all the ususal (hoses, thermostat, flush, etc.) and my problem remains. I suspect the blend-door. Here is what happens. After the car heats up (5 minutes on the road), the air coming through the panel vents is quite warm (not hot but quite warm) - if I turn on the fan, the air gets cooler! Anyone have a suggestion and do I have to pull the dash (ugh) to check further. Thanks so much/Vic S. vstannish@***.net
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  #43  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstannish View Post
Hello - I have a 99 F150 (manual 5 speed 216K miles) where the heater is not working properly. I've changed all the ususal (hoses, thermostat, flush, etc.) and my problem remains. I suspect the blend-door. Here is what happens. After the car heats up (5 minutes on the road), the air coming through the panel vents is quite warm (not hot but quite warm) - if I turn on the fan, the air gets cooler! Anyone have a suggestion and do I have to pull the dash (ugh) to check further. Thanks so much/Vic S. vstannish@***.net
http://www.heatertreater.net/index.htm
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  #44  
Old 12-15-2009, 09:47 PM
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Dash removal, with pictures


http://nator.net/files/Heater%20Core%20Replacement.doc
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  #45  
Old 12-27-2009, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quintin View Post
The parts used...
Click the image to open in full size.
XL3Z-19E616-AB is the blend door actuator itself. I think it might be different on trucks with manual temperature control though, so check with your friendly neighborhood Ford or Lincoln-Mercury store before using this part number for sure. Also, before teardown, if the motor still runs set it to half way temperature (70-80 degrees W/EATC) since it eases removal and installation of the new door. YL7Z-19D963-BA is the blend door.
Hi Quintin,

Can you confirm if the blend door actuator P/N is different from a manual AC and the EATC AC? Your P/N above is XL3Z-19E616-AB and I found another thread where a person changed his blend door actuator on an Eddie Bauer and they said the P/N was XL3H-19E616-AB whereas the prefix ends with a H instead of a Z

I converted my wifes 99 Expy XLT to have Eddie Bauer options but have this one problem with the AC. I have no control of the blend door but all other modes work fine(def/floor) and there is DTC B1249. I ran the Pinpoint test twice. The end result it to change the blend door actuator. There was no problem with the blend door before the conversion and I tried connecting 2 different actuators (so you can visual operation) from the rear AC that look the same and they dont work either. Keep in mind in the pinpoint test you jumper the pinouts to drive the actuator manually but I am sure you know this already. My theory is even though the actuators look the same there is some internal difference for the EATC application; I can't believe I have 3 bad actuators.

Thank you

EDIT: I found some Ford dealer with a searchable parts database. Your P/N is good and the number I quoted from another post is not. Also this database indicates the rear AC actuators are different even though they may look the same the pinout is probably different on the connector. So in a nutshell, I think I have a bad actuator and the two I am trying to troubleshoot with wont work anyway causing me to chase a wild goose.

EDIT: Problem resolved in case anyone cares. The actuator p/n for a Auto Air (EATC) is different from the manual air. The EATC actuator p/n is the same as mentioned above XL3Z-19E616-AB and this solved my problem. If you read this and have a manual air system your actuator p/n is different, check with ford.

Last edited by SVT54; 01-06-2010 at 04:33 PM. Reason: update
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:00 PM


 
 
 
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