Hey all! I have the stock head unit in my 07 F150, I have everything to install my sub w/ amp system to hook up, I have to use the "IAC" or whatever its called I got from BestBuy the "convertor box thingy, for RCAs",.. My question is whats the best way or location for hooking up the IAC box for the RCAs to the stock radio wiring?... I was thinking of doing it by taking out the stock cd player, unhook it from the stock wiring harness then splice in the IAC wires into the wires of the wiring harness...? Is this the best way to do it??
The IAC needs to splice into a Right pos+ and neg- speaker wire and also into a left pos+ and neg- speaker wire, then I need to run a remote wire for the amp--(which I think is supposed to splice into the Acc.Wire of the stock wiring in the harness?) please any help would be nice, whats the best way of splicing into the stock wiring of the wiring harness, use a T- connector? I want it done right and neat this is why I am tryin to do it on my truck instead of a stereo shop.. thanks for all who can help me! - Tyler
Rather than cut your factory wires, you'd be better off getting a harness that interfaces with the stock wiring. Google Metra BT-5520 bluetooth connector.
There's a few different ways to go. The simplest way is to use t-taps on your rear speakers wires directly behind the cd player along with the ACC wire for your remote.
You can also strip back the insulation and solder the wires on or cut the wires and add butt connectors. You can also purchase a 70-5520 and a 71-5520 and splice them together adding your adapter wires. And then there's the BT5520.
If you were to take it to a shop, most of them would simply t-tap it.
Radio Ignition pink/black or lt. green/yellow
Left Rear Speaker (+/-) gray/lt. blue - tan/yellow
Right Rear Speaker (+/-) orange/red - brown/pink
There's a few different ways to go. The simplest way is to use t-taps on your rear speakers wires directly behind the cd player along with the ACC wire for your remote.
You can also strip back the insulation and solder the wires on or cut the wires and add butt connectors. You can also purchase a 70-5520 and a 71-5520 and splice them together adding your adapter wires. And then there's the BT5520.
If you were to take it to a shop, most of them would simply t-tap it.
Radio Ignition pink/black or lt. green/yellow
Left Rear Speaker (+/-) gray/lt. blue - tan/yellow
Right Rear Speaker (+/-) orange/red - brown/pink
Do NOT use T-taps. T-taps are ghetto and lazy.
Strip back the wiring insulation, and splce/solder your speaker leads on the LOC to the speaker wire in the truck. You can also tap switched 12v at the radio for your amp turn on wire. Make sure you fuse this wire.
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Ok, thanks for all the help everyone.. The t-tap method seems much easier and something I could handle, b/c I dont know about all the soldering and the stripin back of the insulation.. that seems pretty tough to do and I've never delt with anything like that before. I just dont want to pay like $100 bucks to have all this done, when I could simply do what they are goin to do if I do take it to a stereo shop,
So no matter what I need to use a fuse within the wiring, if Im running a remote wire from the stock radio to the amp,.. If I use one of those harness' (^) like stated up above, if I splice into the new harness how does that new harness interface with the stock radio harness. I dont quite understand ..where does it plug into if the stock harness is still there to plug into the radio?... Im sorry. thanks for all the help..
Youd get one with a male end and one with a female end...
Or for $30 more you could pay someone to do it the right way, and not risk setting your truck on fire since you obviously dont have any audio experience. Sorry, not trying to sound like a ****. But any stereo shop that is worth anything isnt going to use t-taps. They arent even allowed in our bays at best buy, and installers caught using them can put on final for it.
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- 285/70/17 BFG ATKO - AVIC N3 - Infinity Kappa - Infinity 475A - Magnaflow SIDO -
- Magnaflow Hiflow's - Volant CAI - Lightning Heads - LED Corners - Security by Viper -
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CEA# 174955
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yeah.. my stereo experience is at a low.. I did do the last system installation in my last truck my 2000 S10, but it was much easier with me replacing its stock radio then doing the amp and sub install afterwards.. and there was no need for the LOC in it.
I was thinkin of taking my new truck to best buy and having them doing it since Im wantin to keep my stock head unit in it, how would they install it there..? and I didnt expect if simply and neatly done splicing into the speaker wire themselves t-taps or not could cause a fire?.. I figured could just skip the ttaps and use one to one wire connectors.. use single splice connectors and just twist in the LOC speaker wire to one of the speaker wires then reconnect crimp them with the connectors?? I can see Caution concern with the Acc wire being spliced to a remote wire for the amp, that causing an issue if not fused correctly.. but Ill check with bestbuy within the next days if the price is right
Last edited by tman07f150; 10-09-2009 at 04:14 AM.
Should be $70 for amp install and a $5 shop charge.
The way I do is pull head unit, tap accesory for remote wire (kind of hard to do it anyplace else in the truck due to RAP) and then I tap the speaker wire behind the head unit for the LOC as well. I personally use military splice method wrapped tightly with electical tape around the specific wire, then retape the entire bundle of factory wire. Have yet to have any issues.
__________________
- 285/70/17 BFG ATKO - AVIC N3 - Infinity Kappa - Infinity 475A - Magnaflow SIDO -
- Magnaflow Hiflow's - Volant CAI - Lightning Heads - LED Corners - Security by Viper -
MECP Certified Geek Squad Autotech
CEA# 174955
Give a n00b the answer he will be learn for a day; show him the search button, he will learn for life.
I had my stock 08 radio hooked up with sub/amp, but finally got a double din. All i did was tap into my factory harness with t-taps and then connected the line-out converter into the taps. very simple just look up the radio wireing diagram and you should be able to do it.
Thanks for all the input, Im currently in progress of doing it, Already ran my power and ground, quick question whats the best way to run the RCAs from the LOC to the amp, I ran the power wire atop the wheel well down underneath the pass side of truck and through rubber cromet to inside the rear pass side of cab.
I heard that when running RCAs they shouldnt be ran on the same side of truck as the power wire or kinda near it, seems the best way to run the RCAs from the H/U is down the rail inside the truck under the plasitic step plate molden. Any recommendations?
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