Fixing the OEM Subwoofer 'POP'.
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03-19-2009, 12:50 PM
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Fixing the OEM Subwoofer 'POP'.
OK. What is the correct way to do this? I have searched through these forums and this is what I have found:
These are just some of the solutions I found. Can anyone tell me which one of these (or any others) is the 'best' solution for the subwoofer pop problem?
Or, maybe this unit for $11.99 is the way to go?
http://www.sminntech.com/ampinterface.html
Here is the information I got from crutchfield when I asked about my factory sub system.
"The factory stereo only sends 5V to the sub amp. When an aftermarket stereo is installed, there may be a turn on/off pop from the subwoofer. To avoid this, a 12V to 5V regulator can be installed on the remote lead. The Radio Shack part is 276-1770. (This regulator has three terminals: the first is the input, the second is the ground and the third is the output. The regulator produces a large amount of heat for its size and should be bolted or screwed to a clean metal surface that will act as a heat sink)."
"The factory stereo only sends 5V to the sub amp. When an aftermarket stereo is installed, there may be a turn on/off pop from the subwoofer. To avoid this, a 12V to 5V regulator can be installed on the remote lead. The Radio Shack part is 276-1770. (This regulator has three terminals: the first is the input, the second is the ground and the third is the output. The regulator produces a large amount of heat for its size and should be bolted or screwed to a clean metal surface that will act as a heat sink)."
Or, maybe this unit for $11.99 is the way to go?
http://www.sminntech.com/ampinterface.html
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03-19-2009, 01:45 PM
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03-19-2009, 01:50 PM
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03-20-2009, 08:35 AM
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Thanks for the replies.
The voltage regulator seemed like the best solution, so I went ahead and ordered the pre-wired version from SMinnTech. It should make the install a little easier since the wires are already soldered unto the regulator leads. They also add capacitors to the input/output leads to prevent oscillation on the output side. Just a little extra protection for the sub amp.
The voltage regulator seemed like the best solution, so I went ahead and ordered the pre-wired version from SMinnTech. It should make the install a little easier since the wires are already soldered unto the regulator leads. They also add capacitors to the input/output leads to prevent oscillation on the output side. Just a little extra protection for the sub amp.
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03-22-2009, 01:53 AM
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03-23-2009, 01:03 PM
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#11
04-08-2009, 07:40 AM
Worked for me too
I installed this fix.
Head unit is a Pioneer AVIC F900BT with the stock Ford subwoofer. It would "pop" when the key was turned to the on position.
The voltage regulator was installed (Radishack part number 276-1770 - Model 7805 - $1.67) as shown. No more pop. Works perfectly.
Matt
Head unit is a Pioneer AVIC F900BT with the stock Ford subwoofer. It would "pop" when the key was turned to the on position.
The voltage regulator was installed (Radishack part number 276-1770 - Model 7805 - $1.67) as shown. No more pop. Works perfectly.
Matt
#13
01-02-2010, 06:02 PM
#15
03-02-2011, 02:29 PM
I hate to delve back into a 2-year-old topic, but this is the issue I'm faced with. I know I need a voltage regulator, but I'm a little confused as to what amperage is needed for the subwoofer 'pop' fix.
A lot of the '7805' voltage regulators that I come across (we don't have Radio Shack in Canada anymore) are 1.5A, while I see some that are 1.0A. Does the amperage even matter? I know it has to be +5V, but I need to know if it matters what amp rating I buy.
Thanks, guys!
A lot of the '7805' voltage regulators that I come across (we don't have Radio Shack in Canada anymore) are 1.5A, while I see some that are 1.0A. Does the amperage even matter? I know it has to be +5V, but I need to know if it matters what amp rating I buy.
Thanks, guys!