okay, I have installed the stereo into the truck. I have a 04 Scab Lariat. Factory 6 disc HU not audiophile. I have 2 stinger rca convertors wired in right behind the deck to the speaker wires. I have 2 amps. They are powered by a single 4 guage wire from the postive post of the battery, split at a distribution block into 2 8 guage wires going to the amps. They are grounded with 8 guage to the bolts that hold the jack assembly to the floor. The remote wire for the amps is provided by pin # 2 (accesory delay power).
I am getting some igniton noise through the speakers, I am thinking it is probably from the rca convertors, possibly need to get better ones. Power wires are well away from all thw other wires. Thjinking of grounding the HU to the same spot as the amps first before buying new convertors.
anyways, the REAL problem is this. Since I have installed the system. The windows will all only work from the drivers control. All windows work just fine, except they will only work from the drivers side control. Also, the deck and all the accesory delay items will not shut off after turning the key off and opening the drivers door. They all go off when I open the passenger door but not the drivers.
I have checked the accesory delay relay, seems fine, checked the power window breaker, seems okay. Any ideas what the hell would cause this. Is there a ground in the drivers door preventing it from recognizing it opening? The only wire touched in this whole episode is the accesory delay into the back of the HU.
okay, I have installed the stereo into the truck. I have a 04 Scab Lariat. Factory 6 disc HU not audiophile. I have 2 stinger rca convertors wired in right behind the deck to the speaker wires. I have 2 amps. They are powered by a single 4 guage wire from the postive post of the battery, split at a distribution block into 2 8 guage wires going to the amps. They are grounded with 8 guage to the bolts that hold the jack assembly to the floor. The remote wire for the amps is provided by pin # 2 (accesory delay power).
++ Sounds like a solid set-up as long as you ran your power lead as far away as possible from your speaker path wires. This will cause interference as well.
I am getting some igniton noise through the speakers, I am thinking it is probably from the rca convertors, possibly need to get better ones. Power wires are well away from all thw other wires. Thjinking of grounding the HU to the same spot as the amps first before buying new convertors.
I would NOT ground the HU and amp in the same spot. I would agree the interference is probably coming from the RCA/line-out converters. I tried them a few times years ago, and they always had the engine buzz.
anyways, the REAL problem is this. Since I have installed the system. The windows will all only work from the drivers control. All windows work just fine, except they will only work from the drivers side control. Also, the deck and all the accesory delay items will not shut off after turning the key off and opening the drivers door. They all go off when I open the passenger door but not the drivers.
I have checked the accesory delay relay, seems fine, checked the power window breaker, seems okay. Any ideas what the hell would cause this. Is there a ground in the drivers door preventing it from recognizing it opening? The only wire touched in this whole episode is the accesory delay into the back of the HU.
I'll bet a few $'s that while working on it you knocked a wire or two loose. Also, if you used a Pac type conversion harness, they aren't always right on the money. I've seen a bunch of those that got cross wired and/or were missing pins.
Scott
I'll bet your amps are sending enough power to turn on the delayed acc. after you open your driver's door even though you killed the system
grab the turn on from an acc. or use a relay. look at this thread... Remote Wire for 3 amps?
...also the engine noise you have could be from a bad ground, try grounding the wires somewhere else, I'd use a spot on your door sill...just get a wire brush to take off a bit of the paint to get a good ground and shoot a few self tappers there, just watch out for anything underneath the cab.
You engine noise could also be caused by your converters...get an inline noise filter
If the previous suggestions yeild no results(I also second the don't ground the HU with the amps)...
When using RCA converters, here are some additional tips NOBODY ever tries(well almost nobody). UNGROUND THE RCA converters? If that didn't do anything, make sure the BODY of the AMPS are NOT grounded. Often times this can REDUCE noise considerably.
PS, you don't have the child lock turned on do you? LOL!
You might want to try grounding everything seperatly. Use the shortest ground wires possable and make sure the ground wire is the same gauge as possative wire. Try even grounding the amps sepertly. If none of this works, get your charging system checked. Most local auto parts stores will check your battery and alternator for free. Hope this helps, good luck. Robbie
Okay, I tried grou8nd loop isolators, they sucked, didnt kil the noise but killed all the vocals in the music. I tried grounding the HU to the same spot as the amps and the sound is gone. system sounds great now.
Anyways, does anyone have suggestions on the door accesory issue. I have tried removing the amps from the circuit(remote turn on) making the truck as it was factory. and the windows and the drivers door were still the same. So i just hooked up the amps again. I am wondering if there is another fused circuit that may have shorted somehow that relates to those controls. Is there maybe a fuse for the child lock on the windows? I didnt use a harness, I hardwired into the ford harness for the deck, so is pin #2 the correct pin for remote turn on for the amps.
Anyways, does anyone have suggestions on the door accesory issue. I have tried removing the amps from the circuit(remote turn on) making the truck as it was factory. and the windows and the drivers door were still the same. So i just hooked up the amps again. I am wondering if there is another fused circuit that may have shorted somehow that relates to those controls. Is there maybe a fuse for the child lock on the windows? I didnt use a harness, I hardwired into the ford harness for the deck, so is pin #2 the correct pin for remote turn on for the amps.
Check your fuses (maybe even relays/circuit breakers you coulda fried them) and get power from ANYWHERE but pin 2! If I was you I'd grab the power from the keyswitch ACC or IGN wire and fuse 'em,
but the route you should go is a relay to turn on your amps...
yeah, removed amp remote power from pin 2, it is now back to normal just going to the deck. I grabbed power for the amp remote from the fuse panel from a switched source.
Problem with the accesory delay still happens. It is like the truck isnt recognizing the drivers door opening. and the windows still only work from the drivers switch. I tested power from the window on/off switch and it works as it is supposed to. Power going out when switch is on, no power going out when switch is off. But when i test for power at the othe windows, regardless of switch position I get nothing. Is this a CPU problem?
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