WOW! Really? They actually cast 2 completely different block for three years (10,11,12)?

This is incredibly timely information as I was literally just on the phone with a vendor and was about to purchase the Sport block but he needed to confirm it's availability. He said in all his research they are identical outside of a few performance modifications.

So I guess the bungs for the HSE diff aren't cast on the Sport block? Is that the only difference in terms of casting?

 

Not sure on if they are there or not. But I know first hand they are different in that regard.

2006-2009 LR3 and RRS are identical chassis/engine
2010-2014 LR4 and RRS are identical chassis/engine

"Big Range" Rover is its own beast. Totally different chassis, transfer case, suspension, brakes, etc

RR uses unibody style construction with seperate removable crossmembers for front and rear susp. Where as the LR3/4/ RRS is a full ladder frame construction

 

Hey, there's someone else here that knows what VAG-Com and triple squares are!

I don't know for sure but I seem to remember Dad having a RR or two in his yard. I really can't remember what model they were though. He runs Stadium Auto Parts in Westminster CO. It might be worth a shot to see if he has what you're looking for. Ask for Joe and tell him Joe sent ya. They do ship parts too.

 

What's the concern with the current engine? Why does it need a new one?

 

Unfortunately it's completely my fault. I was towing some excavating equipment and I guess it was a little too much for it or it was just it's time and the water pump started to leak. (60k on the odo)

So I replaced it but put the gaskets on backwards which caused a major leak that I tried to drive with for a few miles and ended up overheating it. Took it to the dealership and was told it had coolant in the oil so head gasket or warped/cracked heads or warped/cracked block. Was quoted some ridiculous price to tear down and investigate so took it back home and started the engine search.

From what I've heard it may actually be easier, from a technical know-how point, to replace the entire engine as opposed to trying to do heads and gasket in the hope that those are the the only issues.

 

If the Sport block works (bought it yesterday) my plan is to do the swap and then sell the old engine complete with all of the sport accouterments as a complete engine and maybe someone will take a flier on it and think they can get lucky with just head gaskets. For all I know that may be the case. Could be a great pick-up for someone. Thinking around $3k as parting it out can make you around the same.

 

5.0 water pumps is a known issue

You need to pull the cooling system into vacuum to refill and insure you don't have any coolant leaks. Also the water pump has the black connecting pipe that has orings (in water pump)(and on oil cooler)

Pulling heads off isn't bad, but you need about a dozen special tools to get the heads and timing setup correctly.

Much much much easier doing a long block swap then trying to do heads off

 

Good to hear. It looks like I made the correct decision then. Also, knowing the pump is an issue will get the wife off of my back a little. She was sure I did it by pulling the excavator around.

I guess I'll plan to replace the water pump while I have the engine out. Thoughts on how to pull a vacuum on the system without the "correct" equipment?

 

Just did some quick Google-ing. I found the tool for the coolant re-fill. It's a vacuum tool by AirLift. I've used an industrial one i the past but didn't realize they sold the "head" piece separately. The one I used had a capture tank and some other pieces as well. Seems like a tool I could use again and it's only $90. A drop in the bucket considering the cost of the rest of the project.

 

I use a SnapOn "hand held" unit that connects to shop air. It's P/N is "SVTRADUS" or something similar

 

Have you thought about filing the engine on your vehicle insurance policy?

 

Here's mine

https://store.snapon.com/Vacuum-Cool...l-P649162.aspx

 

I didn't think about insurance. Not sure how that would work but I guess I could look into it.

The snap-on tool looks identical to the one I saw on Amazon so I should be good to go on that front.

The engine should be delivered next week so I'm going to see if I can start the disassembely work this weekend and see how far I can get. I fully expect to be back on the board with questions. Thanks for all of your help so far.

 

I can promise you it won't work.

But good luck, since you apparently don't want to listen to my advise and expertise

 

Patman,

I‘m confused. Did I offend you somehow? Are we talking about the snap-on tool or the engine? I mentioned that I had purchased the engine in post #66 and you responded to that post but didn’t mention that you knew it would not work.

In post #62 you stated in response to my question about the casting and bungs for the diff being the same, “Not sure on if they are there or not.” I assume if you knew exact details about how they were different you would have stated it.

I truly appreciate your knowledge and expertise in this matter and if you can shine more light on what the specific differences are I would greatly appreciate it. Not a single LR tech that I spoke to (I called 26…. Yes, 26 different dealerships) knew why they were different. Just that they had different part numbers. If you know the answer to that question your expertise is truly elite.

Again, I’m sorry if I offended you by purchasing an engine you clearly told me will not work but that was not the impression I got from your posts.