I am looking at a:
2006 f-250 4x4
155,000 miles
6.0 auto
short bed
6 inch rough country lift kit
new 17 inch B F good rich wheels and tires
fifth wheel hitch
touch screen / G.P.S ken wood radio
They are asking $19K
What are your opinions on this truck, what should i look out for, and does the pricing seem reasonable?

I have had (1) 1997 V6 F150, (1) 1997 5.4L F150, and (1) F250. but my F250 was a 1984 F250 6.9L naturally aspirated.
During the week I drive 30min to work in city traffic. I tow my bassboat nearly every weekend in the summer, sometimes across the country. My fall and winter are spent off road for hunting.

I want something that does better on fuel economy in both city as well as towing on HWY. Also something that hauls my boat better than my current 97 F150 5.4L that i have had for nearly 10yrs now.

 

I wouldn't touch a 6.0 of any year with a 10 foot pole unless the engine has had all the deletes done, head studs, and is properly tuned.

 

The engine is completely stock.
I am not opposed to do the work to make the 6.0L right as long as i knew what all needed to be done and that 155K wasnt too late to do it. How would the perf of the 6.0L after necessary mods compare to a stock 7.3L?

I cant afford a newer 6.4L twin turbo. So as far as i know i am stuck either with a 6.0L or going back older to a 7.3L, which i would prefer, but its hard to find a 7.3L around here for sale at any reasonable price.

If i had my choice i would get a 4dr, long bed, 7.3L with 6sp manual. But around here i stand just as good of a chance of finding a Bugatti Veyron Super Sport.

 

Well, you are looking at a few grand to do the mods. After the mods it will run circles around a 7.3. Without the mods the engine is living on borrowed time.

 

I think one of the worst issues is that the EGR cooler makes the coolant boil over and the engine runs hot. My son had that problem with a rental truck when he moved to Florida.

I also think that some of the problems like the head bolts may be caused by programming the boost to a higher pressure for more power.

There is a lot of information on the web about the 6.0 problems.

 

Ok So i have done allot of reading
I have compiled a list of 6.0L mods
For those of you that have the experience with them. Not hearsay but really experience. Can you please help me prioritize into 3 categories:
1. What i have to do to it when i buy it
2. What should be done soon
3. What could be done to improve it

Here is my list of mods i have read about:
Head Studs
Head Gasket
EGR Failure
ICP
IPR
FICM
HPOP
Turbo
Wire Harness Chaffing
Orings in Oil Rail Plugs
Degas Bottle
Intercooler tube near turbo cracks on the underside, check with mirror
Branch connectors from HPOP to the Rails break on occation
Sticking spool valves
Oil Cooler Gasket Failure (mostly 05 model) ( easy fix, hard to get to)
Coolant Filtration system

There are a ton of after market kits. Anything anyone recommends would be awesome. Here are a few i have seen:
Sinister Diesel 6.0L Kit
Sinister Diesel Update Kit
Bullet Proof Kit
Partial Bullet Proof Kit
Banks 6-gun Bundle
Banks Power Pack

I want to compose a Parts list just as if i was going to do this thing. Because i will more than likely buy this truck or one just like it very soon. I want to know down to hopefully within +/-$100 what i am going to have to put into it immediately and then what i will need to put into it within a year or so.

 

I'd say 155k is WAY too much on a stock motor. I wouldn't buy it. These trucks tend to get toasted far before that when left stock. It could be fine, but it's not worth the risk in my opinion.

If you were to find one with 60k or so on it, it might be alright still.

EGR delete and ARP head studs with tuning are absolute musts. Then things like the new oil line that runs to the back of the block to cool the rear pistons off better, upgraded intercooler, etc. are all bonus things that help.

Get on 6.0 diesel forums, but you're easily looking at $4k at a minimum. I'd look for one that has all of this done already, and done at low mileage, if a 2008 6.4 is absolutely out of the question. But people that bullet proof 6.0s tend to keep them forever and don't sell them often. 6.4s only need EGR and DPF delete, and that's $1500.

AVfrog (member on here) went through all of this already, so I'd send him a PM.

 

Or wait till you can afford a 2011, the Ford 6.7 is a solid motor. Most 7.3's that you will find out there are getting pretty used up.

 

I'll throw in my $0.02

I have had my '06 6.0 for a year and a half. It has seen stints of a lot of miles in short times and is currently used for my 30min stop and go commute to work. I have put it through a wide variety of temps (+110 to -40) and towed 7k from Vancouver BC to Nashiville, TN and back.

Overall, I bought it knowing it needed a bit of love and other than sorting out a long crank after sitting, all issues were non- 6.0 related. The Long crank was caused by a simple 50 cent o-ring that was found after a easy HPO air-test, I did all the regular o-ring, dummy plug, STC fitting, Standpipe, etc. updates figuring I should make sure they were all done anyway.

I know many 6.0 owners and have a friend that runs a fleet of them as tow trucks (more and more are well over 300k miles on original HG's). I know that you will see and get many opinions of the "horror" that is the 6.0, but many of them come from people who never owned one or "Know a guy" that had issues. I can honestly say that out of every 15-20 owners I actually talk to, maybe one has had HG's fail. Seems to be usually caused by a failed EGR cooler or someone running a "hot" tune. There is no doubt the 6.0 has caused grief for some, it is blown way out of proportion online.

My truck is tuned with a sensible ECM/TCM tune and a "Atlas 40" FICM tune. I am very pleased with the performance and MPG's but I do drive sensibly on the long hauls. I can easily knock off 19mpg on the highway and I run heavy 35" tires. I don't have studs, but have an EGR delete, intake (crap K&N) and a complete aftermarket exhaust with a "cat" and small muffler. I see better MPG's than I did with my 2000 F-150 and have way more room (Crew cab vs. Supercab). I travel with the truck to Winnipeg and Calgary often in the winter and the truck has started in temps that my 5.4 wouldn't (both in cases where I couldn't plug them in).

I come from a farming community where all the guys have to have a diesel and they are of all types. I have seen that regardless of picking any Ford Diesel or a Cheby or Dadge, they all have their quirks. I have seen 6.0's 6.4's 6.7's have catastrophic failures, but I have also seen the other brands fail too. Pick your poison. On the flip side I know of at least one of each that have also made it well past 300k without any real issues (even a 2011 "valve dropper" 6.7)

Regardless of what vehicle you decide on, get the warranty and ownership history, if it's had a lot of work and bounced around owners, you may want to find something else.

If you go for a 6.0, I strongly suggest an EGR delete of Bullet-proof EGR, keeping on top of all maintenance, especially the oil and coolant and get yourself a monitor like Scan Gauge II or CTS and know what to watch for. Coolant filters great also. I would even buy a monitor and take it with you when you go to look at one, monitor the coolant/oil temp delta's and make sure it doesn't spread beyond 10 degrees cruising down the highway (try to get it out for a decent 20 mini drive if possible)

If you go for a 6.4, Do a DPF delete and try to buy one that hasn't been tuned. I talked with a engine builder that does quite a few and has come across a lot of cracked heads. Aftermarket exhaust can really improve the MPG's on these too.

Again this is my $0.02 based on my experience and the experience of those I've talked to in person, not just on forums where people tend to focus on the negative (as they are often on forums to find solutions to their problems). The trucks I see last the longest with the least issues, are those with owners who keep on top of maintenance and know enough about their vehicles to catch something before it becomes major. You would be surprised what you find by just doing a walk-around and 30 minute inspection between and with oil changes.

Best of luck with whatever you choose!

 

Thank you all so much for the input. Great info.
I have a Snapon OBD-II scanner, the old brick, can i monitor the oil and coolant deltas with that?

 

If it has a monitor function, then you should. Some of those scanners, just provide codes though, you may have to do a search on your specific model.

 

I have found a 2008 F250 King Ranch that is in my price range.
I hear they get bad fuel economy. If I do an intake and turbo back exhaust with no DPF or Cats and an EGR delete. Will the fuel millage be about the same a 6.0 with EGR delete and turbo back exhaust without cats?
IS there anything else that i will need to do to the 6.4?
Also does anyone have a recommendation of a programmer that does really good on fuel economy. From what i hear most people saying the higher HP tunes seem to get the best mileage. Im not concerned with breaking any HP records here, i just want good towing power of a bassboat and good fuel mileage.

 

Fuel Mileage is good with DPF and EGR gone. Tuning for fuel economy isn't really the objective. The deletes are what improves mileage, and the tuning just makes the computer happy with those gone and brings it all together. Tuning does help MPG a little though. I'd stay away from high HP tunes. There is a positive correlation between HP and MPG, but it can really take a sharp dip in the other direction and the at that same point, you begin running too hot.

The fact that you're looking at a KR is kind of interesting to me though. I'd definitely want a truck that's a 6.4 or 6.7 with lower mileage and lower trim level than a KR. But that's just me. 08 KR 6.4 money could likely buy a 2011 XLT 6.7.

 

It's getting difficult finding delete kits and tunes for 6.4's, the EPA is cracking down on that.

Unmodified, the mileage on either a 6.0 or 6.4 sucks - especially the 6.4 due to the regen cycles. That's why when Ford went to the 6.7 they added the DEF system.

 

Let me put this out there. First off the EGR causing MOST of the issues with these motors. Im not sure what yr they went from 18mm to 20mm head bolts but I think it was 06? Could be wrong there. But the best thing you can do to these motors is Delete the EGR and NEVER TUNE THIS MOTOR UNLESS YOUR WILLING TO DUMP $$$$$ into getting the proper "bullet proofing done"!!! Ive owned these and have lots of friends that own these motors. They are very good motors just have a bad rap. Yes there are lots out there that have issues. But each and everyone I seen go over 200k without major issues are ones that have not been tuned. Another thing is if it does have the egr, letting it sit and idle will kill them as well..... If its stock form go for it! Not to mention a good coolant filtration system never hurts as well. Thats my thoughts and experiance on that.