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		<title>F150online Forums</title>
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		<description>F150online is a discussion forum for current and late-model Ford trucks, from 1997 to present.</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 08:58:50 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>F150online Forums</title>
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		<item>
			<title>cheap ugg boots</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/multimedia-navigation/423994-cheap-ugg-boots.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 06:07:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Looking for cheap ugg boots  (http://www.fancyuggboots.com)?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking for cheap <a href="http://www.fancyuggboots.com" target="_blank">ugg boots </a>?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/multimedia-navigation-97/"><![CDATA[Multimedia & Navigation]]></category>
			<dc:creator>lw22623xk</dc:creator>
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			<title>August 3rd</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/2009-2011-f-150/423993-august-3rd.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 06:03:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[FYI... 
 
http://forums.pickuptrucks.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=594729&page=1#Post594729]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>FYI...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.pickuptrucks.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;Number=594729&amp;page=1#Post594729" target="_blank">http://forums.pickuptrucks.com/ubbth...e=1#Post594729</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/2009-2011-f-150-105/">2009 - 2011 F-150</category>
			<dc:creator>Rambo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/2009-2011-f-150/423993-august-3rd.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Check out these pics that C_ulater made for me!!!</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/general-discussion/423991-check-out-these-pics-c_ulater-made-me.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 05:41:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Thanks Greg(C_ulater), they are awesome!!! :rocker: 
 
 
Greg took a pic of my '02 Supercrew and a pic of my "05 Harley Davidson Night Train and made these pretty cool pics!!!   
 
Image: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_sKlLprvLkPs/TFUIUReJX0I/AAAAAAAAAc0/pfZMfKH3iqw/s912/Copy%20of%20GATORCREWEnhanced_1.jpg ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Thanks Greg(C_ulater), they are awesome!!! :rocker:<br />
<br />
<br />
Greg took a pic of my '02 Supercrew and a pic of my &quot;05 Harley Davidson Night Train and made these pretty cool pics!!!  <br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_sKlLprvLkPs/TFUIUReJX0I/AAAAAAAAAc0/pfZMfKH3iqw/s912/Copy%20of%20GATORCREWEnhanced_1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_sKlLprvLkPs/TFUChnjZ5OI/AAAAAAAAAcc/bsIxJ2w9PrQ/s912/BikeEnhanced.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>And my favorite</b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_sKlLprvLkPs/TFUCUycPCfI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/KQEEDfc1w5c/s912/Bike2Enhanced.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/general-discussion-55/">General Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>GATOR CREW</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/general-discussion/423991-check-out-these-pics-c_ulater-made-me.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Compression Testing (Proper)</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/423992-compression-testing-proper.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 05:34:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*Compression Test—Compression Gauge Check * 
 
*1.* Make sure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the proper level and that the battery is properly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>Compression Test—Compression Gauge Check </b><br />
<br />
<b>1.</b> Make sure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the proper level and that the battery is properly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all spark plugs. <br />
<br />
<b>2.</b> Set throttle plates in the wide-open position. <br />
<br />
<b>3.</b> Install a compression gauge such as Compression Tester in No. 1 cylinder. <br />
<br />
<b>4.</b> Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of five compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.<br />
 <br />
<b>5.</b> Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes. <br />
<br />
<b>Compression Test—Test Results</b> <br />
<br />
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the highest reading. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-specs-picture142058-compresiontest2.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of clean engine oil meeting <b>Ford specification</b> on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders. <br />
<br />
<b>Compression Test—Interpreting Compression Readings </b><br />
<br />
<b>1.</b> If compression improves considerably, piston rings are damaged.<br />
 <br />
<b>2.</b> If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating improperly.<br />
 <br />
<b>3.</b> If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil and/or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition. <br />
Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75 percent of the highest reading. <br />
<br />
<b>Cylinder Leakage Detection</b><br />
<br />
When a cylinder produces a low reading, the use of Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit will be helpful in pinpointing the exact cause. <br />
<br />
The leakage detector is inserted in the spark plug hole, the piston is brought up to dead center on the compression stroke and compressed air is admitted. <br />
<br />
Once the combustion chamber is pressurized, a special gauge included in the kit will read the percentage of leakage. Leakage exceeding 20 percent is excessive. <br />
<br />
While the air pressure is retained in the cylinder, listen for the hiss of escaping air. A leak at the intake valve will be heard in the throttle body. A leak at the exhaust valve can be heard at the tail pipe. Leakage past the piston rings will be audible at the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) connection. If air is passing through a blown head gasket to an adjacent cylinder, the noise will be evident at the spark plug hole of the cylinder into which the air is leaking. Cracks in the cylinder block or gasket leakage into the cooling system may be detected by a stream of bubbles in the radiator. <br />
<br />
<b>Oil Leak and Valve Stem Seal Test</b> <br />
<br />
The cylinder leakage detector tests for engine oil leaks and checks the valve stem seals for leakage. <br />
<br />
<b>1.</b> Plug all crankcase openings except the one used for connecting the leakage detector.<br />
 <br />
<b>2.</b> Connect Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit to a crankcase opening (an oil level indicator tube is convenient). Adjust the air pressure to approximately 34 kPa (5 psi).<br />
 <br />
<b>3.</b> Using a solution of liquid soap and water, brush the solution along the gasket sealing surfaces and bearing seals. Look for bubbles or foam. <br />
<br />
<b>4.</b> Remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft slowly with a wrench. Check for large amounts of air escaping into the cylinders as each intake valve and exhaust valve opens. <br />
<br />
<b>5.</b> The spark plugs on the leaking cylinders will probably show deposits of burned oil.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos-119/"><![CDATA[Articles & How-To's]]></category>
			<dc:creator>jbrew</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/423992-compression-testing-proper.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Compression Testing (Proper)</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-engines/423990-compression-testing-proper.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 05:34:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*Compression Test—Compression Gauge Check * 
 
*1.* Make sure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the proper level and that the battery is properly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>Compression Test—Compression Gauge Check </b><br />
<br />
<b>1.</b> Make sure oil in crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the proper level and that the battery is properly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all spark plugs. <br />
<br />
<b>2.</b> Set throttle plates in the wide-open position. <br />
<br />
<b>3.</b> Install a compression gauge such as Compression Tester in No. 1 cylinder. <br />
<br />
<b>4.</b> Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of five compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.<br />
 <br />
<b>5.</b> Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes. <br />
<br />
<b>Compression Test—Test Results</b> <br />
<br />
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the highest reading. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-specs-picture142058-compresiontest2.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of clean engine oil meeting <b>Ford specification</b> on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders. <br />
<br />
<b>Compression Test—Interpreting Compression Readings </b><br />
<br />
<b>1.</b> If compression improves considerably, piston rings are damaged.<br />
 <br />
<b>2.</b> If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating improperly.<br />
 <br />
<b>3.</b> If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil and/or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition. <br />
Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75 percent of the highest reading. <br />
<br />
<b>Cylinder Leakage Detection</b><br />
<br />
When a cylinder produces a low reading, the use of Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit will be helpful in pinpointing the exact cause. <br />
<br />
The leakage detector is inserted in the spark plug hole, the piston is brought up to dead center on the compression stroke and compressed air is admitted. <br />
<br />
Once the combustion chamber is pressurized, a special gauge included in the kit will read the percentage of leakage. Leakage exceeding 20 percent is excessive. <br />
<br />
While the air pressure is retained in the cylinder, listen for the hiss of escaping air. A leak at the intake valve will be heard in the throttle body. A leak at the exhaust valve can be heard at the tail pipe. Leakage past the piston rings will be audible at the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) connection. If air is passing through a blown head gasket to an adjacent cylinder, the noise will be evident at the spark plug hole of the cylinder into which the air is leaking. Cracks in the cylinder block or gasket leakage into the cooling system may be detected by a stream of bubbles in the radiator. <br />
<br />
<b>Oil Leak and Valve Stem Seal Test</b> <br />
<br />
The cylinder leakage detector tests for engine oil leaks and checks the valve stem seals for leakage. <br />
<br />
<b>1.</b> Plug all crankcase openings except the one used for connecting the leakage detector.<br />
 <br />
<b>2.</b> Connect Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit to a crankcase opening (an oil level indicator tube is convenient). Adjust the air pressure to approximately 34 kPa (5 psi).<br />
 <br />
<b>3.</b> Using a solution of liquid soap and water, brush the solution along the gasket sealing surfaces and bearing seals. Look for bubbles or foam. <br />
<br />
<b>4.</b> Remove the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft slowly with a wrench. Check for large amounts of air escaping into the cylinders as each intake valve and exhaust valve opens. <br />
<br />
<b>5.</b> The spark plugs on the leaking cylinders will probably show deposits of burned oil.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-engines-24/">V8 Engines</category>
			<dc:creator>jbrew</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-engines/423990-compression-testing-proper.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2004 XL rubber floor replacement</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/interior-care/423989-2004-xl-rubber-floor-replacement.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 04:55:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Got a work truck with a torn up floor-wondering if anyone has replaced it before</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Got a work truck with a torn up floor-wondering if anyone has replaced it before</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/interior-care-49/">Interior Care</category>
			<dc:creator>572379</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/interior-care/423989-2004-xl-rubber-floor-replacement.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Interesting story for me</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/423988-interesting-story-me.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 04:46:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[July5th 
I,m driving across Saskatchewan in my 05 Lariat when all of a sudden it sounds like I'm driving a diesel. Luckily I can limp in to a ford dealership a few kms away. After messing around for a couple hours, the service tech shows me a service bulletin where there are problems with faulty...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>July5th<br />
I,m driving across Saskatchewan in my 05 Lariat when all of a sudden it sounds like I'm driving a diesel. Luckily I can limp in to a ford dealership a few kms away. After messing around for a couple hours, the service tech shows me a service bulletin where there are problems with faulty injectors? At this point they think I have a bent rod and my engine is toast, so they order up some new injectors and the engine is still running poorly, so they submit a claim to Ford and a couple weeks later there is a new small block with my name on it at the dealership. Total cost to me was $551.00 for the new engine switch over, plus the rental I had for 3.5 weeks while I was waiting .<br />
<br />
Why the hell wouldn't Ford change out all of the injectors instead of  just the 2 that failed. fs</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150-80/">2004 - 2008 F-150</category>
			<dc:creator>Fasteel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/423988-interesting-story-me.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2004 F150 Heritage Supercab 4x4 V8, 87K Miles!!!!!!!!!!!</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/trucks-sale-1997-2003/423987-2004-f150-heritage-supercab-4x4-v8-87k-miles.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 04:35:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>2004 Heritage F150. It has the 4.6L V8, 4spd automatic, 4x4, tow package and a 3.55 limited slip rear axle. It currently has about 87K miles on it. I have maintained it very well. Vehicle has tinted windows, a custom exhaust with a stainless Magnaflow muffler and tips, a PHP Gryphon programmer with...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>2004 Heritage F150. It has the 4.6L V8, 4spd automatic, 4x4, tow package and a 3.55 limited slip rear axle. It currently has about 87K miles on it. I have maintained it very well. Vehicle has tinted windows, a custom exhaust with a stainless Magnaflow muffler and tips, a PHP Gryphon programmer with 3 different custom tunes, and a BRAND new set of Nitto Terra Grapplers 265/75R16s with less that 3000K miles on them. It also has an upgraded transmission cooler, EBC front rotors and pads, a Tekonsha P3 Trailer Brake Controller, Optima Red Top Battery, and a high output alternator. Asking $11,000 OBO. Reasonable offers will be considered. Sorry but I dont know how to post pics. I have pics in my profile though. Btw, I am located in Kansas City, Missouri. Feel free to call or PM me.<br />
<br />
Chris<br />
(816) 686-5507<br />
<br />
Please don't call after 11pm Central Time. Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/trucks-sale-1997-2003-108/">Trucks For Sale (1997 - 2003)</category>
			<dc:creator>my64falcon</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/trucks-sale-1997-2003/423987-2004-f150-heritage-supercab-4x4-v8-87k-miles.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2004 XL with air bag code 1-8</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/electrical-systems/423986-2004-xl-air-bag-code-1-8-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 04:30:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Got a 2004 XL with a airbag code 18  After searching I couldn't find the exact year but one close and the chart indicated either the PAX air bag light out or a short to battery in the Pax circuit-wondering if anyone has tried to chase that done or just left it alone]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Got a 2004 XL with a airbag code 18  After searching I couldn't find the exact year but one close and the chart indicated either the PAX air bag light out or a short to battery in the Pax circuit-wondering if anyone has tried to chase that done or just left it alone</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/electrical-systems-67/">Electrical Systems</category>
			<dc:creator>572379</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/electrical-systems/423986-2004-xl-air-bag-code-1-8-a.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2004 4x2 wheel bearing repack</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/suspension/423985-2004-4x2-wheel-bearing-repack.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 04:28:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Been searching and not alot comes up on a 4x2 wheel bearing repack-wondering if there was anything special to it or is it pretty straight forward-inherited a XL with 182000 and just catching up on some neglected items</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Been searching and not alot comes up on a 4x2 wheel bearing repack-wondering if there was anything special to it or is it pretty straight forward-inherited a XL with 182000 and just catching up on some neglected items</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/suspension-28/">Suspension</category>
			<dc:creator>572379</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/suspension/423985-2004-4x2-wheel-bearing-repack.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>A fitment question about bumpers...</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/423984-fitment-question-about-bumpers.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 04:22:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have an 06 2wd with chrome front bumper with the round fog lamps. 
 
I would like to add a bit of protection up front. I've got a guy who has a pretty hefty brush guard that fits the 2005 model f150's and expeditions. bolt-on style from Diamond B (who no longer produce bumpers, but I've had some...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an 06 2wd with chrome front bumper with the round fog lamps.<br />
<br />
I would like to add a bit of protection up front. I've got a guy who has a pretty hefty brush guard that fits the 2005 model f150's and expeditions. bolt-on style from Diamond B (who no longer produce bumpers, but I've had some in the past and they are some of the strongest I know of) he is getting rid of his last inventory, so I have this option. He has no full replacement bumpers from that company.<br />
<br />
I'm also considering trying to find a full-replacement bumper (I like the frontier brand) for my truck. These have their own brackets pre-welded to the bumper, that mathc up to the frame...<br />
<br />
My question:<br />
<br />
In my searching, will I be able to fit either style (bolt on/full replacement) that were built for, or came off, a 2004-2005 year models on my 2006 truck?<br />
<br />
I know enough to know that the front bumper brackets are different for factory bumpers, is this also the case for the guards?<br />
<br />
Thank you for your help.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150-80/">2004 - 2008 F-150</category>
			<dc:creator>mwkatm</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/423984-fitment-question-about-bumpers.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>WTB: Stock Heads, Tails, 3rd brake light - or 1 of any</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/parts-wanted/423983-wtb-stock-heads-tails-3rd-brake-light-1-any.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 03:58:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Email me at mudstar2010@gmail.com or leave your email address and i will email you. 
Thanks, 2wd</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Email me at <a href="mailto:mudstar2010@gmail.com">mudstar2010@gmail.com</a> or leave your email address and i will email you.<br />
Thanks, 2wd</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/parts-wanted-117/">Parts Wanted</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[2wd 'Slanger]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/parts-wanted/423983-wtb-stock-heads-tails-3rd-brake-light-1-any.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[You tube slow for ya'll?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/general-discussion/423982-you-tube-slow-yall.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 03:55:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>It seems like just about any video I watch lately has bufering issues. Plays about 3 or 4 seconds buffers... and stays stuck. I can pause it and it will VERY SLOWLY load the video. Doesnt matter what type of video I.E Music or whatever, everything. I have a 20mb/s FIOS connection and I should see...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>It seems like just about any video I watch lately has bufering issues. Plays about 3 or 4 seconds buffers... and stays stuck. I can pause it and it will VERY SLOWLY load the video. Doesnt matter what type of video I.E Music or whatever, everything. I have a 20mb/s FIOS connection and I should see no problem even with 1080p videos.<br />
<br />
HULU for instance plays fine along with other networks like grooveshark, but you tube since being bought by Google seems to just plain out suck iht.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.speedtest.net/result/898953276.png" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
Anyone ?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/general-discussion-55/">General Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>MoshNet</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.f150online.com/forums/general-discussion/423982-you-tube-slow-yall.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Has any one experienced this??</title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-engines/423981-has-any-one-experienced.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 03:46:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi I am a new owner of a 2003 F150 XLT supercab short bed truck with about 112,000 miles on it. Everything has been solid on the truck until last night. The first thing i noticed was that the abs dash light came on. Just afterward things got weird. When I looked at the volt meter on the dash it was...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I am a new owner of a 2003 F150 XLT supercab short bed truck with about 112,000 miles on it. Everything has been solid on the truck until last night. The first thing i noticed was that the abs dash light came on. Just afterward things got weird. When I looked at the volt meter on the dash it was not registering, the radio was sort of intermittent in working and the head lights started to dim. Other non-essential stuff like the outside temp and compass started blinking and the lights eventually dimmed until they no longer were noticeable while driving. This happened during a trip that totaled about 5 miles. I was able to make it home and turn it off. The next morning I started it up and drove 5 miles and everything ran and looked fine on the gauges. The previous owner replaced the alternator and battery less than a thousand miles ago. I was thinking that it was a bad dream but when I started the engine that next day it turned over slower telling me that the battery got a work out last night and had not recovered.<br />
<br />
Has anyone else experienced this?<br />
When an alternator goes on a rig with this much electronics on it does it freak out like mine did?<br />
Any help would be great as I am very intimidated by electronic problems.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-engines-24/">V8 Engines</category>
			<dc:creator>adamking31</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[My ol' reliable]]></title>
			<link>http://www.f150online.com/forums/pre-1997-models/423980-my-ol-reliable.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Aug 2010 03:27:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Owned this truck for 11 years, was the best truck anyone could ever ask for. In the 11 yrs & 100K+ miles I put on it I only had to replace the tires twice, exhaust once, & a battery. There was no mechanical problems with it at all.  
 
It was hard to trade off, but I had a great deal sitting in...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Owned this truck for 11 years, was the best truck anyone could ever ask for. In the 11 yrs &amp; 100K+ miles I put on it I only had to replace the tires twice, exhaust once, &amp; a battery. There was no mechanical problems with it at all. <br />
<br />
It was hard to trade off, but I had a great deal sitting in front of me, so it went down the road. Some other fortunate owner has it now. <br />
<br />
The day I brought it home.<br />
<img src="http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e248/hk45shooter/95f150600x349.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
&amp; after almost 11 yrs of faithful service &amp; Iowa winters taking it's toll.<br />
<img src="http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e248/hk45shooter/IMG_0334528x396.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e248/hk45shooter/IMG_0335_1528x396.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
I just hope the new truck (pictured below) gives me just as good of service.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.f150online.com/forums/pre-1997-models-51/">Pre-1997 Models</category>
			<dc:creator>hk45shooter</dc:creator>
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