I have a 2001 2WD Screw with the 4.6L. I had 50 series flowmasters (straight piped) installed last year for my birthday as a present from my parents(cats intact). I want my truck to rumble more but dont want to replace the whole system as it was a present from the parents. Are there any small changes that i can make to get it to sound better?

 

High flow cats. Headers. A 40 or 10 series flowmaster? Pick your poison. Have fun!

 

link>>> https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...ust-guide.html

 

Can i do any of those for a relatively low cost?

 

Well what's your definition of "low cost"?

 

Low cost is relative, but 50s aren't that loud to start with. Straight piping means no muffler, so are yours true dualed? Straight piping, replacing your mufflers with just pipe, would be by far the cheapest route. Your 4 cats will keep it from being raspy, and selling the mufflers on CL should cover the cost of the straight piping it. So that's practically free.

Your parents probably won't mind, and you can convince them that all the piping was the biggest/best part and where the money was spent.

I've got long tube headers, no cats, all 304 SS, the whole 9 yards, and that gets real expensive, real fast. So I'd just straight pipe it.

***Ooh, actually, I'd get two manual cutouts welded in infront of the mufflers. Take the caps off, straight piped. Put em on, exhaust flows through the 50s. That'll keep everyone happy and retain your whole exhaust system.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...xhaust-cutouts

 

Would you mind explaining the manual cutouts idea more?

 

It's literally just a "y" pipe that replaces a small portion of straight exhaust before your muffler(s). It's like a fork in the road. For normal function, you have the cap on the alternate exhaust route that branches off from the main path, and the exhaust flows through your mufflers as if this new cut-out Y pipe wasn't even there. However, remove the cap, and the exhaust follows the path of least resistance, most of it flows out of the cut off, and voila, you have bypassed your muffler(s).

I assume your exhaust is just regular steel, so I'd just get regular steel cut offs. If you have 409 stainless, I'd get 409 stainless cut offs, etc. Not sure what state you're in, but corrosion residence does matter if you're in a snowy area. Texas you can use whatever you want.

 

If you don't mind me asking, I've wondered what a system like that is worth ?

 

My flowmaster 50's were 325 installed. On a 2001 supercrew 2wd 4.6L

 

OBX long tubes with Y pipe and no cats - $575 shipped
Percy split lock locking header bolts - $100 shipped
OEM Ford gaskets - $70 shipped
BBK O2 extensions - $50 shipped
O2 bung hole plugs (x4) - $40-50 shipped
Roush (Borla) catback - $560 shipped
-Optional: SCT programmer with custom tunes to turn off the rear O2 if you don't have cats like I don't.

So I've got about $1400 just in parts and I installed it all myself. You could easily tack another $1200+ on if you have a shop install all of that. It's really not worth the money unless you just "have to have it" like I did. Long tubes don't do crap for performance on these big trucks either, but they sound amazing. I don't even need 304 stainless down here in Texas, but I plan on keeping the truck for a long time and didn't even want to worry about corrosion on the exhaust. Plus shiny bits just look cool haha. You could cut the parts cost down to $8-900 or so using regular steel.

 

Thanks for the info, good to know about the headers too

 

No problem. Other people reported gains, and I'm sure if I had done a before and and after on a dyno there would have been power increases. I could tell a difference in a mustang GT with them, but the headers along with custom tunes at the same time did next to nothing that I could notice on the truck. But that's fine cause I bought them 95% for the sound.

 

Do you have any videos of it?

 

Kmac is a slacker and doesn't record videos of his exhaust. It ticks me off too.