Go Back   F150online Forums > Powertrain & Mechanical > Exhaust & Intake Systems
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-15-2011, 04:29 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Vehicle: 2001 Ford F150
Posts: 103
So you broke off one of your exhaust studs flush with the head - what now

Here are a couple of tricks I learned trying to remove three exhaust studs that snapped off flush with the head without removing the heads from the engine. Turns out that the stud Ford uses has a shoulder that damages the first 1/8 to 3/16" of the threads. It is this damaged area that prevents you from extracting the stud.

Extra tools for the job - an air powered right angle drill, you guessed it an air compressor, assorted small drill bits, a jobbers length 3/8" drill bit, and a #3 easy out. First remove the inner fender well cover. Next with the exhaust manifold removed drill a progressively larger pilot hole in the broken stud. Be very careful to drill with light pressure, if you snap the drill bit off in the stud you are in a world of hurt. Once you have reached the proper size for your #3 easy out, you can stop. During this process it is quite likely that the stud has actually been driven further into the head, this is fine. Now take the jobbers length 3/8" drill bit and use it to remove the first 1/8 to 3/16" of the threads in the head, not on the broken stud. Once you have removed this area, install the easy out and walk the stud out. All three came out like butter after I removed the damaged area in the head. Hope this helps someone out there.

Last edited by KTrostel; 08-15-2011 at 04:39 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-15-2011, 04:34 PM
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Vehicle: 2014 Ford F150, 5.0
Posts: 23,399
great post! I made it a sticky thread so it will stay at the top of the forum. Thanks for the contribution.
__________________
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-21-2011, 08:24 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Val Caron, Ontario
Vehicle: 2003 Ford F150
Posts: 34
I did the same with the easy out, but the easy out broke inside of the stud. Now what! I tried welding a nut to it, but with the easy out in there is was not easy. Once the nut was welded, the stud can out really easy.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-10-2011, 10:42 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
Hey, just a quick question. I installed a new throttle body on my 1996 F-150 4.9L and in doing so I twisted one of the mounting bolts that attached the assembly to the upper manifold. How serious is this? I know this is a rooky mistake, lol.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-08-2012, 04:36 PM
Technical Article Contributor
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Dallas, Tulsa
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Expedition
Posts: 6,472
Trixters Racing LLC
A good bet is a LEFT handed drill bit and a reversible drill. Most often you will need nothing else. If it is corroded, hit it with WD-40 before you begin.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-09-2012, 05:56 AM
Suspended
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MI
Vehicle: 1998 Ford F150 5.4L 4X4
Posts: 25,636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash! View Post
A good bet is a LEFT handed drill bit and a reversible drill. Most often you will need nothing else. If it is corroded, hit it with WD-40 before you begin.
I agree, If you can punch it dead center. Combination heat and reverse action will spin them right out.

If they break inside the thread chamber, it's more fun. Since the break isn't usually flat, I've had to use a small carbide burr to port a center pilot before drilling. If your attempting to save the threads, it works if your careful.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-30-2012, 08:51 PM
Technical Article Contributor
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Dallas, Tulsa
Vehicle: 2000 Ford Expedition
Posts: 6,472
Trixters Racing LLC
Yep I agree. Normally once the head is gone, it is smooth sailing reversing the bolt. It has worked every time (NOT so many... LOL!)...
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-28-2012, 07:58 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gardner, ma.
Vehicle: 2001 ford F150
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by KTrostel View Post
Here are a couple of tricks I learned trying to remove three exhaust studs that snapped off flush with the head without removing the heads from the engine. Turns out that the stud Ford uses has a shoulder that damages the first 1/8 to 3/16" of the threads. It is this damaged area that prevents you from extracting the stud.

Extra tools for the job - an air powered right angle drill, you guessed it an air compressor, assorted small drill bits, a jobbers length 3/8" drill bit, and a #3 easy out. First remove the inner fender well cover. Next with the exhaust manifold removed drill a progressively larger pilot hole in the broken stud. Be very careful to drill with light pressure, if you snap the drill bit off in the stud you are in a world of hurt. Once you have reached the proper size for your #3 easy out, you can stop. During this process it is quite likely that the stud has actually been driven further into the head, this is fine. Now take the jobbers length 3/8" drill bit and use it to remove the first 1/8 to 3/16" of the threads in the head, not on the broken stud. Once you have removed this area, install the easy out and walk the stud out. All three came out like butter after I removed the damaged area in the head. Hope this helps someone out there.
Great article and advice. For those who may not know, drill bits and easy outs are heat treated. This makes them quite hard and brittle, like glass. So like glass, they do not like to bend or flex much. Keep your tools going straight and you can avoid snapping off drills and easy outs(usually!) Land of Giants.
One more idea. If you have the room, (I have never had to do this on a F150 so the room may not be there) As a tool make/machinist we woulf often use a piece with a pilot bushing to guide the drill where we want it to go without walking/moving around.
Use the existing bolt hole in the manifold as a guide for a drill that fits snug in the manifold bolt hole. Keep manifold in place using a couple of bolts. The drill that fits the bolt hole in the manifold will be held straight as the existing hole acts as a pilot bushing. Now just drill in about 1/8" or so (inspect as you go) this will make a perfectly centered pocket for you to now use the other smaller drills being more likely to stay in the center of the stud your removing.
Certaily the other fella's suggestiuon of liquid wrench etc and a left hand drill and drill bit is a great idea.
I do have two 2002 F150 w/ 5.4 with exhaust leak. I am hoping its not the manifold, but fear the worse. I'll pass this one to my mechanic as I do not with to tackle the job.

Last edited by land of giants; 05-28-2012 at 10:32 AM. Reason: signature
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-28-2012, 09:06 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Vehicle: 2002 Ford F150
Posts: 86
Send a message via Yahoo to msgtcarew
n WD-40 removing nuts, bolts etc. Spray wait 5 minutes, extract. When I want to work on chassis items, I spray/soak nite before all connections, next morning easier disassembly. Always steady torque on tools removing nuts, bolts etc., never jerking!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-18-2013, 10:25 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: VA
Vehicle: 2005 Ford F150
Posts: 78
Will I have issues with stock manifold bolt removal on a 05 f-150 4.6l?
__________________
2005 f-150: Hitech Motorsports Stage 2 cams, Pacesetter longtubes and y pipe, Flowmaster Super 10, Circle D lockup 3,500 Stall, Chrome grille, tint, drop shackles in rear, xbahn 20" wheels, custom stereo, sct custom tune, Nitrous Express Proton Nitrous Kit(150hp Jetting)..etc.... :banana:
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-26-2013, 12:19 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: VA
Vehicle: 2005 Ford F150
Posts: 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pageracing View Post
Will I have issues with stock manifold bolt removal on a 05 f-150 4.6l?
.?
Truck has been in va since I bought it new. Never at the beach. Mild winters here. Should I have issues removing mine?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-30-2013, 07:26 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gardner, ma.
Vehicle: 2001 ford F150
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pageracing View Post
.?
Truck has been in va since I bought it new. Never at the beach. Mild winters here. Should I have issues removing mine?
Most likely. Super hot head temps then cooling, sweeting etc. causes metals to rust or corrode. Especially dissimilar metals that touch each other.
Soak well with liquid wrench for a few days in advance as suggested by another is always a good idea.
Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2013, 07:26 AM


 
 
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:42 AM.





This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
 
Contact Us Advertising Privacy Statement Terms of Service Jobs Forum Text Archives
Emails & Contact Details