Evap Diagram

  #16  
Old 04-21-2011, 07:47 PM
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Okay, Cameras do not work during daylight lol.

These are the two evap lines seen here in the frame ( evap from firewall and the evap from gas tank ( two lines T'ed into one ) ).


Now here in this picture we can see the Y (T) connection which is the tube from the firewall and the other tube from the gas tank, connecting together before going to the canister. ( You will notice the old line to the left is cut and no longer used. )


In this photo you will see the same thing yet again however with the inclusion of the evap to air... tube.

 
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:07 PM
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I brightened them up a bit lol.

Blue arrow was the hose I removed. Yea, I wasn't trying to get you to do this, -not at all. I somehow got on the subject of what I did for my specific prob in the past. Who knows, -It may come in handy one day.



Yea, - it's exactly the same as my set up. Like I said , they haven't changed anything with their diagram over the years, not that I've seen anyway. I've got a good color diagram coming of this, not here yet, will be shortly.
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:00 PM
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Sweet, Nice job on the lighting lol.

I will of course keep your methods in mind should my canister go /tilt/, and I wish I had taken pictures when it was up on the hoist. All I need now is a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor and I'm all set! Anyone have a new one that is not $178 at the local Ford Dealers?

Ps.. This is my setup as I got it second owner... lol! Enjoy?!

 

Last edited by Rusty97; 04-21-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:47 PM
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Damn good diagram Rusty, simple! Why can't Ford make it simple and show all the break points and connections ??

Can' believe I found a pic of that hose when I did it, but here it is lol -



____________________________________

Rear Vent -



__________________________________________________

Here's what you replaced -

 
  #20  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:34 PM
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Thanks on the comment Also yes on the part I am yet to replace.. motion in action.


Looking at that hose you removed.. I think I need to tuck mine back into place lol. I was going to have it changed but there was none available at the moment.. and it was exactly when my fuel pump was knocking me at 20psi and lower on rev.

Still using original sparks and wires from 98 and has 195,000km on motor. Lots of rust underneath though

Still.. Thankfuly you have pictures of your items and work !! Nice :P
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty97
Thanks on the comment Also yes on the part I am yet to replace.. motion in action.


Looking at that hose you removed.. I think I need to tuck mine back into place lol. I was going to have it changed but there was none available at the moment.. and it was exactly when my fuel pump was knocking me at 20psi and lower on rev.
No problem lol, - oh that's right , you haven't replaced it yet.. What DTC, 453 ? Yea , that's a bad switch. The dealership part is usually the best route, but I would still price them out. I would purchase from Rock Auto instead, -definitely. I used them for many years and they've always been fair on both price and shipping. They have so many warehouses, they're bound to have one close to you, or close enough that shipping won't be much.

Originally Posted by Rusty97
Still using original sparks and wires from 98 and has 195,000km on motor. Lots of rust underneath though

Still.. Thankfuly you have pictures of your items and work !! Nice :P
Need to change those plugs, - the gaps are most likely on the verge of being to far out. DON'T use Autolites in that engine, just these -

Denso Iridium = Best IMO
NGK's
Motorcraft

Just those above, -others for that model year aren't near as good and can cause serious issues.

_________________________________

Yea, I have 274,000 miles the motor and about 300,000 miles on the original Trans and everything else. Body has started to rust thru and I'm currently replacing lower bed panels, rockers, cutting out some sections on the cab, replacing all with sheet metal, -weld in. I finished the backside of bed so far. Now I'm just waiting for more ambition. I hate body work.
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:50 PM
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I forgot to mention, - yea these pumps need 28 lbs to function properly, - and that's at the very least. A healthy pump is usually found @ 31-35 lbs.
 
  #23  
Old 05-03-2011, 01:22 AM
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Thank you so very much for all the help by far ... I have been away from the computer for a few days but the truck runs great with the new fuel pump. I just wanted to add another question if I may.

I started my truck in the morning ( ambient temp outside ) and I hear the sewing maching tick sound! It speeds up as I accellerate. Goes away after a few minutes at 60km ( 40ish miles and plus ). Lifters? I bought some Lucas which is going in on the next oil change.. and no I am not low on oil.

Kinda bothered by this but I drove it 400km like this as to get my ars back home haha.
 
  #24  
Old 08-04-2011, 01:44 AM
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po 453 fuel tank pressure high

ok...i got a 1999 f150 4.2L, i replaced the ftp sensor in the gas tank...cleared the code with scanner drove for 10 miles... next start up light back on same code... any suggestions????
 


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