Not necessarily. It took me < 5 minutes to cut off both my pipes with something like this:
Except the one I used was a smaller hand-held version and still did a terrific job. Had to install my own tips, so I rented the tool from Advance Auto Parts and did it in their own parking lot. I think this is what they used (hand-held version---couldn't find a pic of one). It has a bunch of little pizza-cutter blades attached to each link and they tighten around the pipe as you tighten the wrench, cutting it.
As far as dumping the exhaust, if you do it after the mufflers the only sound difference would be the resonance from the tips. That, and it will be louder inside the cab. I'd say put new tips on there and hope for the best. If it happens again, get another shock sensor and mount it to one of your hangars.
if you look on the close up pic
you can see where they started the cut and the saw jumped around a bit....
That hand pipe cutter tool looks pretty handy. That cut is too clean for a sawzall. A sawzall going through stainless would be alot sloppier from the vibration, and hella noisey & attention drawing.
Yeah it was extremely easy to cut my pipe when I put on my tips. Just wrap the chain around the pipe and start rolling, increasing tension as you go. The cuts are extremely clean.
Yeah it was extremely easy to cut my pipe when I put on my tips. Just wrap the chain around the pipe and start rolling, increasing tension as you go. The cuts are extremely clean.
We use one like this at work all the time:
Looks exactly like the one my bud used to trim down my rear cat delete pipes.
I don't think anyone stole your tip. To me it looks like the tip was multi piece construction. I would think it was laser or most likely friction welded together and that one of the manufacturer's welds has failed. Look at the discoloration at the rear of the taper. It looks like a heat effected zone to me. I also think the cut is too perfect and symetrical to have been done by anything other than a machine in a factory.
I bet if you take a really good look at the other side, you will find a seam right where your "cut" line is located.
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97 XLT S/C Long Bed 2wd, 4.6 Romeo, 4R70W trans, 325,000 miles
I don't think anyone stole your tip. To me it looks like the tip was multi piece construction. I would think it was laser or most likely friction welded together and that one of the manufacturer's welds has failed. Look at the discoloration at the rear of the taper. It looks like a heat effected zone to me. I also think the cut is too perfect and symetrical to have been done by anything other than a machine in a factory.
I bet if you take a really good look at the other side, you will find a seam right where your "cut" line is located.
I don't think anyone stole your tip. To me it looks like the tip was multi piece construction. I would think it was laser or most likely friction welded together and that one of the manufacturer's welds has failed. Look at the discoloration at the rear of the taper. It looks like a heat effected zone to me. I also think the cut is too perfect and symetrical to have been done by anything other than a machine in a factory.
I bet if you take a really good look at the other side, you will find a seam right where your "cut" line is located.
I'm thinking the same thing as you. If you were cutting a tip, why would you try to cut it right at the flare?
lol guys.. I get it, those welds are obviously horrible.. but you get what you pay for.. aside from them looking so bad, what do you think they used to weld them together in the first place that's causing the welds to rust up like this?? The piping is supposedly aluminized while the tips, muffler, and x-pipe are SS, so I'm assuming their melting points are a little different and the sloppiness was partly result of such?
I think Bent6 might be onto something.. I was wondering the same thing about those "burn" marks near the flange of the "cut".. unless someone is carrying around a lightsaber, I can't imagine what would have left the break looking soo clean.. I haven't take a good look at the 2nd tip, but is it likely that the tips were in fact 2 pieces from Magnaflow and that my tip simply fell apart? lol
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2008 Blackout FX4 - 6" Procomp, 35" Toyo MT, 20" Procomp 7005 wheels, 4.56 Yukon gears, True-dual Magnaflow exhaust, AF1 3.0" intake, VMPtuning X3, and a lot of black spray paint.
-Exhaust clip- http://s340.photobucket.com/albums/o...nt=exhaust.flv
It looks to me like it just fell off. No sawzall cuts that straight and without any burrs and that pipe cutter does not work on an angled piece, needs to be the same diameter pipe, and a flat surface.
It looks to me like it just fell off. No sawzall cuts that straight and without any burrs.
same thing I was thinking...
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- '01 Procharged Lariat on a custom suspension w/ go fast mods - Tuned by Troyer (and a lil' something in the works)
- '03 Harley Davidson Edition -worlds first "Snake Bit" Harley Truck, shows in stock class,
- 'New Eddie Bauer Expedition - Tuned by VMP (boost coming soon) old albumshttp://www.f150online.com/galleries/....cfm?gnum=8805
Some shops use basic steel welds with a mig welder. Mine are steel and are rusty looking like yours, but solid enough to keep things bonded, and its the cheapest weld material.
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