I have a 2001 F150 (177k Miles) that is having an problem that has gotten more frequent recently. The car will turnover but will not start, however trying 4 or 5 times with both PATS keys it will finally start up. This problem was happening every once and a while when I was driving the car every day, but it always started eventually. But last month I purchased a new 2015 F150 and am only driving this truck once to three times a month just to keep things charged up, lubed.. etc... Below are the symptoms I am experiencing.


Here is the symptoms.

When you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position there are NO chimes. There used to be 4 or 5 chimes then a longer chime which I always waited on to start the car. My thinking it was the time needed to check for faults and get the fuel pressure up, but just guessing. Anyway NO chimes now, and the theft light is not blinking fast. This morning it took about 4 or 5 times to get the truck started. When I got to work I turned it off and back on and it turned over for a second or two then cranked.
After it cranked I turned it off and did a Dealer Instrument Cluster test. The DTC was NONE, do I need to wait for the next time it does not want to start to do this test to see if there is a DTC code? Or do any of you guys/gals have any suggestion on what I am dealing with.

Note: I purchased this F150 in 2001 new and it has never turned over more and one or twice before cranking. (Until now no major issues at all with the truck).
I hope my new truck treats me as well as the last one. :-)... Need to fix this puppy, because my son is getting it for his 16 birthday.. Not the battery it's new. :-)

 

Unless the THEFT light is fast-flashing during a starting attempt, it is not a PATS event.

If it's just turned cold where you are, it might be an IAC valve sticking shut. Try cracking the throttle 1/4 way and see if that allows the engine to fire.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and MEASURE the fuel pressure at key-on and see if the pump is working or not..

If the doors are closed, lights are off, and the seat belt is connected, that would be generally expected. Might be a worn-out key-in-ignition switch.

You're using terms in a way that is not effective in describing what is or isn't happening.

"Cranking" is the rotation of the engine by the starter.
"Turned over" means someone had a severe accident.

Use "No crank" or "Cranks but does not fire" as appropriate in describing symptoms, those are unambiguous terms.

 

Thanks for the input and correction of terminology :-), I will try your suggestions. The THEFT light was not flashing. The seat belt was not connected, as I always start the engine and then fasten the seat belt, so as you suggested the key-in-ignition switch might be suspect. I will check those out and post back.

 

With your answers to projectSHO89's clarification questions, it seems to have a crank no start condition.

This is what I had happen on my 2001, some time back.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...e-my-cure.html

Worth a check to see what is going on.

Also driving the truck 1 to 3 times per month is not going to help with the battery. You might want to invest in a BatteryMinder to keep the battery charged and desulfated.

http://www.batteryminders.com/

These are the ones I use on my motorcycle batteries when I am not using them.

 

Thanks, that is a good idea. I appreciate the input I will try that on Friday. I actually did that very same thing on my wife's ford Freestar when the tail light stopped working switched the left and right relays to make sure it was not a relay but a blown bulb. IF the relay is going bad, that is a quick and cheap fix. I changed the fuel filter about two month ago, it was due..

BTW: I really like this forum you guys have a lot of really knowledgeable folks that contribute to it. Good idea on the batter minder as well. I will look in to both suggestions. Thanks again.

 

Treat the chimes issue (very low priority) separately as it is likely unrelated to the failure to start problem (very high priority).

 

Update: Today I started the Truck and it Hard Started but it started took 2 seconds or so. Let it run for a minute or so, shut it off and attempted to restart the engine. Same issue Crank No Start event.

Cracking the throttle 1/4 did not work
If the truck starts it idles fine and drives normal. A sticking IAC valve would cause bad idle correct? Should I try and clean or tap on the IAC?
Replacing the fuel pump relay (with a new one) did not fix the issue.
Checked the fuel pump fuse 20A it tested fine.

I did not hear the pump run (kneeling next to the tank) when my wife turned the ignition to he "ON" position, but I did hear a clunk under the hood, I think that is a normal sound.

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge but a friend of mine does, he also has a big rubber mallet TOO so we will try banging on the tank, and check the pressure. Those are my next two steps.

Strange it will start and a minute later it wont start, frustrating. That was the reason I really thought it was the Relay. Random loose connection??????

 

Common behavior for a fuel pump that's almost gone.

 

Thank you so much for your advice.projectSHO89. My no start problem was F30. I had pulled all fuses and checked with VOM only for continuity, but F30 spades were not making contact with the 12 VDC fuse box socket from run/start ignition switch power. I scraped off the fuse spades and reinserted the fuse.Bingo, everything came uu except the odometer. I pulled the instrument panel and re-soldered pins on pc board @ ribbon connector for odometer and when I re-installed instrument panel the odometer came on too. I really do appreciate your help.