I have a 2002 Ford F150 SCrew 4x4 5.4L. My main window switch on Drivers door can control all four windows. But when you try to use any of the windows switches on the actual doors (front passanger, and both rear doors) they won't work. Any clues as to what might be causing this problem? Yes I did check to see if the lock was on.

All four windows go up and down, so long as I use the switches from the drivers door. If i try to use any of the switches on the actual doors (as an example if I try to use the passenger front side switch to operate that window) they don't work at all. I also noticed that if I try putting the windows up or down from drivers controls and someone else hits their switch it like cancels the operation, but as soon as they let go the drivers switch works again.

The illumination of the other three door window switches are not luminated. If I flip the window lock switch to on/off the other three doors window switches do not luminate. The passenger door's lock/unlock switch is luminated.

I have done a post about this in the past and haven't had any luck. I also did a search and found that "Topin" has the exact same issue but his results were never posted and I can not reach him. Topin's truck is a 2004 and I'm not sure if the wiring is the same but it seems to be the exact same problem.

I did buy and install a brand new window switch from Ford and I installed it soon as I got it from the UPS dude. All my windows worked exactly as they should for about a minute. I put the ignition switch to accessory and every window worked from each door. I got in the truck drove down the road maybe 2 minutes and tried them again just out of curiosity and nothing!!! They only worked from the driver door switch again with all the exact same simptons. I gave up at that point and I don't drive the truck as much as I used to (12mpg damn 10% ethenol, I was getting 14mpg's all day long before it). Even know I don't use her as much as I used to it still bothers the ***** out of me and it's kicking my butt. Please, please, help lol...

 

I have 2 different thoughts with the power window issues.

1. The lack of illumination is strange as that is not via the lock out switch like the newer body style, it is part of the instrument illumination circuit.

This would lead me to an issue with the ground at G200. This is marked as by the fuel inertia cut off switch in the right hand kick panel.

All 4 power windows use this ground point, so maybe checking that there are no broken wires at the ring terminal ends at that ground is step #1.

2. Forgetting the illumination issue for the time, this could be a broken wire from the output of the lock out switch, which is the Yellow w/ Light green stripe wire.
Make sure the lock out switch is off ( windows should work )
Remove the switch on any other door, and check for + VDC on the harness from the Yellow w/ Light green stripe wire to ground.
1. Use the ground in the wiring harness, it is a black wire.
2. Use another known good ground for the same test.
- i.e. the ground lug in the right side kick panel when checking the front passenger door.

If you do not have + VDC at the Yellow w/ Light green stripe wire, I would check the rubber boot from the driver's door to the a-pillar for it to be broken there.

Those are the 2 SWAGs that I have on the issue without the info above.

 

I have some free time this morning. I am going to check it out right after my coffee. I'll be back...

 

Oh, thank you for helping me!!!

 

Okay after an hour and a half I found one frayed wire under the pass door kick panel. It was a thin black wire with a light blue stripe. I cut it and twisted it back together. This wire is hot from the battery. No key in ignition at all at it had 11.42VDC. I don't think it's related but figured I'd be thorough.

I sliced the rubber boot open drivers door and everything looks okay. It's not easy to see but I was thorough and got my fat fingers in there to follow each wire. Is there a central computer or module that controls everything? It's just weird to me that when I replaced the drivers switch with key forward in ignition they all worked. When I started it up and drove down the road (less than two minutes) they stopped working again.

 

what about the remainder of step #2, checking for + VDC at the passenger front door switch ?

BTW: your battery is 11.42 VDC ?
- might want to replace that battery, it is screwed

The black with light blue stripe wire is either Circuit #53 ( interior lamps ) or Circuit # 875.

 

Yes sorry... Did step two at front passenger door. I used the battery itself and the ground bolt under the kick panel. No +VDC at all. I tried it multiple ways.

 

ok not being an azz here, but did you open the window control on drivers door and make sure the plug was all the way in on the switch module ?
I ask this because I had a problem with the window controls and after cleaning the contacts and re-assembling same thing happened it worked a couple of times then stopped - connector came out.

if the back lighting is not on then the switches are not getting power, if you have a new switch from dealer I would check the connections in drivers door window control first,, they are not much as far as contacts go, as an electrician- I think the contacts should be heavier material/more contact area I see a lot of post on here about bad switchs and I always have to clean the contacts and it works fine for a while.

 

Not an ares at all... I must have plugged and unplugged the damn thing a million times. I also wiggled the wires while playing with the switches. I do have illumination on the drivers door so power is getting there just don't have ilumination on the other three doors. I think the only other thing I could do is start taking everything apart and follow the wires. I've been taking the tape/wrap off the wires from where I can reach. If that plug isn't plugged in then I wouldn't have power to my driver door either. I wish "Topin" was still around. I'd love to see what he did to fix it.

 

Dumb question #1 of the day for me, you did have the key in the run or accy position prior to testing ?

If so..
Time to check for resistance on the Yellow w/ Light green stripe wire from the driver's door switch to the others.

You should have < 100 ohms ( I would say < 10, but need to take into account if you have a low battery in the meter, and how well the contact is to the pins )./

 

LOL... No not dumb at all... I First had it in the accy position and I had no results what so ever so I then put the key in the run position and retested everything over again. Still no +VDC at the passenger door. I will try the ohm test later this evening. Hopefully we can narrow it down, I'll keep my fingers crossed.

My battery is only a year old but I really have not driven the truck that much this year so I"m not surprised that it's weak. It still should have enough juice for testing purposes.

 

Just have not had a chance to get out there and check it agian... I will try tomorrow morning.

 

Okay so I broke down and brought my truck to my local stereo guy. He is pretty sharp and has done lots of work for me over the years. He used his test light meter and found my switch to be bad. What kills me is that the switch is brand new. It did work for a moment but then crapped out 5 minutes after the install. I still have the old switch and we tested that as well. He thinks it's probably a bad solder on the board. What I don't get is that more people don't have the same issue. These switches are not cheap and this will be the third one I am buying. Does this seem right? I will buy a new switch yet again and post the results just incase somebody else has similar issues. I could only find "Topin" and he is long gone and never posted his results.

Basically I bypassed the switch by twisting the hot wires togther and all the windows worked proper from the individual locations. When I pin it back to the switch only the drivers door controlls the windows. That's just one of the ways we tested it.

 

It was in fact a bad solder on the board. I have some pictures that I will upload later just for the search feature if anyone else has this issue.

 

This picture is of the driver's side door power window switch. The bottom six pins are where the window lock plug connects to. Just under the bottom of the bottom pins there is a broken solder. Here is a picture of it:


Here is another veiw. You can see just under the bottom of the right side pins that there are three solder points. The center one is broken, you can see in the picture that where the pin pops through the board where the black is in the picture is actually no solder.


In this picture you can see a small glob of solder (sorry not a great welder) that I applied to fix the issue.


Here is another angle:


After the quick fix of solder all my windows work as they should. If anyone else has the same problem I'd check here first! It's super easy to access no tools required to check the board, although I did use my pocket knife to help pop out the board but you really don't need it. You can buy a soldering iron with solder from Wal-Mart for like $10 if you don't already own one. I'm just Peeved that it took me all this time to fix it lol...