Heated Mirrors

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Old 01-07-2014, 08:04 PM
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Heated Mirrors

Ok I have a 2011 f150 xlt. It has power mirrors, but no heat or signals. I ordered new heated mirrors with signals. I have been reading for a couple days on how to do it, and know the signals may or may or may not work. I am prepared for either case. I know I will have to put in a switch to make the heated mirrors work, and that is where id like to see how other people have done it. Id love to install the factory switch into the dash, but I don't think that is possible, I can order the bronco switch with the timer in it, and I like that idea also. I really don't want it to look like a butcher job when im done, so that's why I figured id ask and maybe get some good ideas from other guys that have done it. Also if anyone has the door wiring schematics, to make it a little easier if I have to do a lot of wiring.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:28 PM
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Well I installed the new mirrors, and the signals work, so that was good. I ordered the old ford defrost switch, f37b-19a328-aa, just have to wire it up now. Was wondering if anyone could tell me if I just have to run a hot power to the switch, then just another wire out from the switch to the heated mirrows? Not sure if the switch itself has to be grounded.
 
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:37 PM
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Ok, I ordered the ford switch with the timer built into it, I figured I would test it before I started cutting a hole to fit it. I am either not wiring it properly, or the switch could be bad, but any way, I have a 12 volt spare batter, and the switch has 5 terminals. This is the way I wired it.
Pin 1 I connected 12 volts power to switch
pin 2 I think is supposed to be power out (to mirrors)
pin 3 I connected 12 volts for the timer
pin 4 is ground
pin 5 is to light up the switch
Now with the way I have hooked this up, the light is constantly on, and it is constantly feeding power out of pin 2, (to mirrors).

Was hoping maybe someone has wired on of these switched before, and could tell me if I am wiring it wrong, or maybe you just cannot test it with a spare battery?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 



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