05 factory head-unit not working
#1
05 factory head-unit not working
So I have an 05 screw lariat. It has the audiophile system with factory sub. Has worked perfect with no indication of problems. So yesterday I get in the truck and it doesn't even come on. No lights no nothing on the head unit works, no buttons do anything. I've pulled fuses #1, 2, 22, and 31, disconnect the battery and pulled the head unit out and disconnected all connectors. I don't know what or where else to look. I know everyone is going to say aftermarket but I really don't want to do that. Is there a relay or something I can check? Does someone have a wiring diagram so I can shoot some wires?
#2
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
How did you check the fuses ?
- Pull and stare at them, or check both pins on the back of the fuse, to a known good ground, for + VDC with a meter with the key in the accy / run position ?
The fuses, you got 1 of them wrong. #7 not #2 ( #2 is for the stop / turn circuit to the Brake Pedal Position Switch ).
Fuse #102 feeds the accessory delay relay, and there are a few other things on that you would notice. Just to be sure, check both ins on the back of it while installed with a meter for + VDC.
Might want to try another relay in the accessory delay relay position. Trailer tow battery charge relay is the same full size ISO relay.
- Pull and stare at them, or check both pins on the back of the fuse, to a known good ground, for + VDC with a meter with the key in the accy / run position ?
The fuses, you got 1 of them wrong. #7 not #2 ( #2 is for the stop / turn circuit to the Brake Pedal Position Switch ).
Fuse #102 feeds the accessory delay relay, and there are a few other things on that you would notice. Just to be sure, check both ins on the back of it while installed with a meter for + VDC.
Might want to try another relay in the accessory delay relay position. Trailer tow battery charge relay is the same full size ISO relay.
#4
I used a volt meter and checked all the fuses and everyone but the #7 got a normal reading, I got like 0.30 to 0.11 vdc on it, but from what I understand it only does somethign when the key is in the full forward start position. So I shot wires on the harness that plugs into the radio and I have power on the constant and the power wire, which leads me to the radio being bad.
So now I'm going to buy an aftermarket and hope that I can hook it up to the factory sub without the popping problem I've read about. The upside is I can get rid of the stupid FM modulators I have right now.
So now I'm going to buy an aftermarket and hope that I can hook it up to the factory sub without the popping problem I've read about. The upside is I can get rid of the stupid FM modulators I have right now.
#5
I replaced mine with a Shaker 500 unit that was $100 and brand new on ebay. Sounds much better then the factory 6 cd unit I had plus it allows MP3.
I have a saleen subwoofer so I dont know if it works with the audiophile sub. My truck did have it from the factory and all the connectors had a place to plug into the back of the shaker unit. Also not all the steering wheel buttons control the same but I never use them anyway
I have a saleen subwoofer so I dont know if it works with the audiophile sub. My truck did have it from the factory and all the connectors had a place to plug into the back of the shaker unit. Also not all the steering wheel buttons control the same but I never use them anyway
#6