9005 bulbs in fogs current draw...help
#1
9005 bulbs in fogs current draw...help
I installed the 9005 bulbs in my fog lamps and now when I roll up the windows, my lights go dim. Obviously this is an increased draw on the system.
What can I do to fix this? If anything short of putting the factory wattage bulbs back in.
side note... I have noticed my alternator makes a considerable amount of whine noise. Im wondering if its weak ...hmmm
Thanks,
ps... I did a search and didnt find much info.
What can I do to fix this? If anything short of putting the factory wattage bulbs back in.
side note... I have noticed my alternator makes a considerable amount of whine noise. Im wondering if its weak ...hmmm
Thanks,
ps... I did a search and didnt find much info.
#2
I installed the 9005 bulbs in my fog lamps and now when I roll up the windows, my lights go dim. Obviously this is an increased draw on the system.
What can I do to fix this? If anything short of putting the factory wattage bulbs back in.
side note... I have noticed my alternator makes a considerable amount of whine noise. Im wondering if its weak ...hmmm
Thanks,
ps... I did a search and didnt find much info.
What can I do to fix this? If anything short of putting the factory wattage bulbs back in.
side note... I have noticed my alternator makes a considerable amount of whine noise. Im wondering if its weak ...hmmm
Thanks,
ps... I did a search and didnt find much info.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ulb-guide.html
The 9005 is a 65w (@ 12.8v) bulb. Say ~ 5 amps, each. In other words, not much of an additional load (depending on what-all else is active at the time - you did not specify, - bambi mod fer example, etc - beyond a window motor).
Try this simple test: turn on yer hi-beams instead of yer fogs (with no other extraneous active loads). This will present approx the same additional load - same symptoms?
If so, you likely have either an alternator or a battery going south.
BTW - we have a *new* subforum for stuff like this now - check it out: https://www.f150online.com/forums/il...-lighting-131/. Cupboard's kinda bare at the moment, but it'll fill up
MGD
Last edited by MGDfan; 01-23-2011 at 08:57 AM.
#3
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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Both the headlamps and the fog go dim ?
When this happens, are you diving or idling ?
If you have the fog lamps off, does the same thing happen ?
The dimming I would put towards an increased load, but more so with the power window motors, not the fog lamp bulbs.
Same thing if the windows are up, and you press the switch to the up position again ( the motor pushing against the window channel while already closed ).
When this happens, are you diving or idling ?
If you have the fog lamps off, does the same thing happen ?
The dimming I would put towards an increased load, but more so with the power window motors, not the fog lamp bulbs.
Same thing if the windows are up, and you press the switch to the up position again ( the motor pushing against the window channel while already closed ).
#4
Thanks guys,
Sorry about the misplacement of the thread. If a mod sees this, maybe we can get it moved over to lighting.
Well, I went out and did a couple physical tests to report back.
I turned most accessories "on" while in park sitting in the driveway.
pushed one power window and the pull was obvious yet again.
I pushed both power windows and the pull doubled and the ABS light came on.
The truck struggled to idle as rpms dropped considerable.
The alternator whine is evident inside the truck now.
I noticed that the battery voltage gauge didnt move much however...hmmm
Next test was driving.
I did the same tests as above only at 45mph
At first with cold engine, driving, the ABS light appreared and the drag was apparent again.
After 15 minutes of driving, and the truck heated up real good, I tried again pushing the window buttons and the draw was much less. Also no dash lights lit up under load.
I really dont think its my power windows, since it does it on both and they roll up and down fine.
The battery is pretty old , like 4.5 yrs
and the alternator is whining its *** off like a 3 year old not getting its favorite toy
I know as preventative maintenance and since the truck has 148k miles on it I plan on replacing both over the next couple months.
I would like to replace the culprit first though.
and I am almost certain it is one of the two.
I do own a fluke volt meter and know how to use it, is there any tests you would like me to do and report back voltage wise?
Thanks again
Mike
Sorry about the misplacement of the thread. If a mod sees this, maybe we can get it moved over to lighting.
Well, I went out and did a couple physical tests to report back.
I turned most accessories "on" while in park sitting in the driveway.
pushed one power window and the pull was obvious yet again.
I pushed both power windows and the pull doubled and the ABS light came on.
The truck struggled to idle as rpms dropped considerable.
The alternator whine is evident inside the truck now.
I noticed that the battery voltage gauge didnt move much however...hmmm
Next test was driving.
I did the same tests as above only at 45mph
At first with cold engine, driving, the ABS light appreared and the drag was apparent again.
After 15 minutes of driving, and the truck heated up real good, I tried again pushing the window buttons and the draw was much less. Also no dash lights lit up under load.
I really dont think its my power windows, since it does it on both and they roll up and down fine.
The battery is pretty old , like 4.5 yrs
and the alternator is whining its *** off like a 3 year old not getting its favorite toy
I know as preventative maintenance and since the truck has 148k miles on it I plan on replacing both over the next couple months.
I would like to replace the culprit first though.
and I am almost certain it is one of the two.
I do own a fluke volt meter and know how to use it, is there any tests you would like me to do and report back voltage wise?
Thanks again
Mike
#5
Both the headlamps and the fog go dim ?
When this happens, are you diving or idling ?
If you have the fog lamps off, does the same thing happen ?
The dimming I would put towards an increased load, but more so with the power window motors, not the fog lamp bulbs.
Same thing if the windows are up, and you press the switch to the up position again ( the motor pushing against the window channel while already closed ).
When this happens, are you diving or idling ?
If you have the fog lamps off, does the same thing happen ?
The dimming I would put towards an increased load, but more so with the power window motors, not the fog lamp bulbs.
Same thing if the windows are up, and you press the switch to the up position again ( the motor pushing against the window channel while already closed ).
Good questions...
The tests I just done were in daylight with lights on at first...apparent draw.
But then turned all heads / fogs and parking lights OFF and still the same thing happened!!!
So I guess It is not the 9005 Fog light bulbs like I originally thought.
I guess its alternator or battery talk now...lol
Thanks for the help man.
#7
Went out today and tested the battery ( truck off ) 12.43 volts
Then at idle it went to 14.75 volts
I have a scan tool and also found that I have a B1676 code which says voltage out of range - ABS
What do you make of this?
Thanks,
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#9
I sure did, but good question nonetheless.
I checked the battery in the truck and found out its more than 4 yrs old. Looks like this thing has been in there 6 years so Im imagining its just the battery.
Looks like at over 14 volts the alt is trying to do its job.
I will replace the battery and report back what I find.
I checked the battery in the truck and found out its more than 4 yrs old. Looks like this thing has been in there 6 years so Im imagining its just the battery.
Looks like at over 14 volts the alt is trying to do its job.
I will replace the battery and report back what I find.
#10
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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12.43 I would call a battery that needs to be replaced, but it could be low due to sitting or messing with the testing, without running the truck at speed to recharge it ( not sure what you have been doing for testing with this ).
If you just want to replace it your call. Might want to have it load tested before replacing it.
If you just want to replace it your call. Might want to have it load tested before replacing it.
#11
#12
A good reference: https://www.f150online.com/forums/4407224-post3.html
For a battery maintainer, I'd recomend an 'intelligent' unit like the 1.5A model from Schumacher, at WallyMart - ~$24. Can be connected all the time when the truck is parked with no ill effects.
MGD
#13
#14
Mike, I have a smart charger too and I love it. The problem with the SC is that once it gets it to "FUL", as it says, it won't turn back on from that reading. Each time it's plugged in or is "FUL"ly charged, it has to be "re-started" with the amperage button. I have a 25A that is a different name than B&D but I believe is the same charger. That is unless you have a much lower amperage charger that operates differently than mine.
#15
Hey Code,
Thanks for the info. Here is the link to what I have.
Let me know if its what you are thinking of. I definitely want to use the right equipment so If its not then give me any reccomendations to what is best.
link...
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CGMQ8wIwAA#
Thanks for the info. Here is the link to what I have.
Let me know if its what you are thinking of. I definitely want to use the right equipment so If its not then give me any reccomendations to what is best.
link...
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CGMQ8wIwAA#