I have no brake lights or hazard lights. I did some troubleshooting and tested the fuse location and there doesn't seem to be power coming to the fuse.

I am at a dead-end where to go next to solve this. Should I be looking for a relay or something else? Does the power go to the hazard flasher first and then goes to the fuse?

Thanks!

 

You will want to wait for a post from Steve83 to get the real answer.

For the 97+ MY F-150s ( might not be the same on the '89 MY so be warned this is a SWAG ) the power to the turn signals feeds a single flasher.
One fuse is hot in run position ( the turn signal part ) the other fuse is hot all the time ( hazard part ).
The MultiFunction switch ( MFS, turn signal lever ) has the input from the Brake Pedal Position ( BPP, used to be called a Brake On Off or BOO switch ) switch and the flasher.
The MFS defaults to the contact for the rear lamps to the BPP and if you turned on a turn signal that side broke the contacts to the BPP and put it to the flasher output ( for the hot in run position fuse ).

Again, you really want to wait on Steve83 ( he knows this MY range inside and out ), but it seems ( from what I read ) there is a single fuse for both these functions on your MY, and it is not getting power ?

 

That is correct - single fuse and it is not getting power.

 

Beyond what I know ( using wrong MY info from newer F-150s = Not a good idea as you have proven ).

Found a 1996 EVTM cell for Stop / Turn lamps, and it shows 2 flashers with 2 fuses:
1 is turn signals, fuse is hot in run position
The other flasher is for the hazards ( same fuse for the BPP, called a BOO switch back then ), fuse is hot all the time.

What this means, I have nothing to work from to even make a useful SWAG.

Sorry, wait for a post from Steve83 to get the real answer.

 

There is a separate fuse for the turn signals. And they work fine.

 

Ok, could be similar to the 1996 ( and I cannot stress enough this is applying the wrong MY info to your problem, so it could be a HUGE waste of time for you ), when you metered the fuse on the back, both sides were dead ?

Did you pull the fuse, and check both pins in the fuse slot ( not sure if that is how you determined there is no power to the fuse slot ) ?

Do you have your owners manual, the 1995 ( again wrong MY being applied ) engine compartment fuse panel info, shows fuses and circuit breakers referring to other fuses. Not sure if you have that level of detail.
I also cannot confirm if this fuse panel info is correct ( I got it somewhere else ):

 

I check the back of the fuse panel and each of the fuse slots. I have the fuse panel diagram from a Chilton manual.

 

Should I try jumpering off a hot fuse?

Anyone?

 

The '92-up wiring is very different.

Fuse #1 feeds hazard & brake lights, and it's fed by a Blue fusible link wire on the starter relay via a Yellow primary wire going into the dash. Test each fusible link by pulling its ends. If the insulation stretches, the link inside is burned. Any parts store can sell you a replacement. Follow the instructions on the packaging.

If your truck has the old-style relay, consider upgrading to the later style. They're connected the same way and mount the same.

 

First I don't see a blue wire on the relay - red and three yellows. Should I change the relay either way?

How about trailer wiring? Could that be causing this problem?

 

Someone might have burned up the fusible links & deleted them. They're important to have. But check each of the wires for full battery voltage by piercing each, then wiggling them, especially near the relay. If voltage is intermittent, the wire is burned or broken internally. If you need to replace a fusible link, read this:



Yes, the newer relay is a cheap & worthwhile upgrade.



Depending on how it was spliced in, yes, trailer wiring could cause this. Especially if someone EVER used a ScotchLok connector to tap that Y wire feeding F1. They can cut the wire.

The battery goes to the relay, where the Bu fusible link should be. That feeds a Y wire going to F1, which then feeds the hazard flasher on a R/Wh wire, and continues to the brake switch (BOO) as LG/R. They both then feed the turn/hazard switch, which controls most of the bulbs. The flasher feed is Wh/R, and the BOO feed is LG.

 

Have you figured out the solution? I have the same problem, no brake and hazard lights, no power to F1, any other suggestions other than the fusible links?

 

Another question is what does fusible link L do? what does it connect to?

 

Fill in your signature so the truck's details show with every post. You can omit the model if it's the same as this forum's name and the century part of the model year. But put the 2-digit year, model (ONLY if different from the forum), engine size, transmission model, trim level, cab/bed configuration & wheelbase, transfer case model (if 4WD), gear ratio, tire size, miles (or KMs), single/dual fuel tanks, mods, maintenance, damage, repairs, etc. If you don't know all the truck's details, read this caption & follow the links in it:



DON'T POST THIS INFO because it will only appear in THAT post - not in EVERY post.

If there are any terms you don't understand, read this: Automotive Terms & Abbreviations

Uploading pics of your truck would also help. It's easy to embed them in your posts if you follow the instructions at this link:
http://www.supermotors.net/forums/th...-and-or-videos

Where are you getting "L" from? The factory doesn't label fusible links. If you have a wiring diagram with labels, follow it to find out what that one does.

 

I was looking at the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual. My apologies for not showing year and model, it's an 89 F150 with the 300 4x4. the wire was a brown case with an orange chaser. I did re-read your earlier posts and bought a new fuse link at the relay and power returned. I will also fill in my signature.