I have a 2006 F150 XLT that has a CodeAlarm remote start system installed on it. (didn't install it myself, but I believe it's the CATX630 system). This remote start system has always had minor problems, where disconnect/reconnect of the battery would set the alarm off, or using the keyless entry keypad before starting the truck would cause it to go off. I recently installed 55W HID's to replace my headlights and fog lights, and since then, my truck has gone to ****. After the installation, I turned the key and everything powered on fine. Then the truck shut it's power completely off and the alarm went off. I stopped the alarm with the key fob and started the truck this time. It ran for 30 seconds and shut itself completely down, but didn't set the alarm off. Quickly started it back up, and went for a drive. It shut itself down while I was going about 20 MPH, and made a weird mechanical noise. The ABS light lit up for about a minute then went off. I drove it home and let it sit overnight. Went to remote start it today and the truck instead flashes its parking lights 4 times fairly fast. Went out and started it with the key and it ran fine. All lights, radio, etc. worked fine. However, battery gauge dipped down to about a 1/4 charge, then went back up to normal position. Drove away and it ran fine. Went to head back home in the afternoon and started it, ran fine for a minute then battery gauge dipped even lower than before, to the point where battery light came on and stayed there. Went to put it in drive and it shut itself down. Gauges started flickering, and it rough-started back up. Left the parking lot and it shut itself down. Started it up, and drove home, but while driving it died two more times, the blinkers were very weak, gauges and lights and everything but the A/C quit working. Got home, and the brake, ABS, airbag, and battery light were all on. Truck wouldn't respond to key fob, but it would rough-start. However nothing would work besides, again, the A/C. Did the HID's cause all of this? I did a full LED conversion of all bulbs on the truck a while ago, and I have two 12" subs, but nothing else being powered. PLEASE HELP!

 

Howdy!

^^^ Reckon it may have. Cheap crappola PnP HID kits are poorly shielded and poorly suppressed.

You needn't believe ol' Bubber, though - ye kin test my hypothesis yeseff:

Return yer truck lighting to stock halogens; disconnect/remove ALL the aftermarket crap. Do a PCM KAM reset (batt disconnect fer a couple minutes). Start 'er back up and report back. Hopefully ye hain't gone done fried nuffin' in yer 'lectrical system, aight?

That be know'd as troubleshootin' 101. Rooted inna scientific method (don't pekker more'n wun thang at a time). Yep - fayncy britches n'sich.

Yall may want to consider either tossing or replacing yer faulty remote start - a boogered unit is the next best thang to useless. and will only continue to cause you grief.

Lastly - please cornsider usin' these thangs called 'paragraphs'. Yer post was excruciatin'ly difficult to read. Mobile apps are no excuse. Note that some folks here won't even respond to eye-searing gobbledygook like that'n. Reckon ah's jes' a ol' softie, eh?

Thankee.

BTW - some good readin' on why yer PnP's are junk and are a downgrade:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...nversions.html

Good source of quality Retrofit kits and components to do it properly:

www.theretrofitsource.com

good luck

 

I replaced the HID's with my stock headlights and fog lights. Everything is back to normal now.

 

And if you installed 4 55w ballasts you may have maxed the alternator output causing low voltage issues and then other modules like ABS get cranky when they don't get clean power 10.5-14.5volts

 

'55w' ballasts are usually only35w-40w. So that's only ~200 watts - not much more than the stock incandescent load.

It's the cleanliness of that power that is of concern - and the amount of EMI; both injected into the bus, and radiated - induced by the crap PnP kits.

OP - I'd get yer battery and charging system checked, regardless.

And - good job removing that garbage. Save up yer pennies fer the good stuff.

BlackSheepBubba

 

I will agree that the continuous draw shouldn't be the problem...

BUT

I think you may have overlooked the startup draw....especially on cheap junk aftermarket ballasts... There's very little control when they fire up

 

Hey Eighty-Eight!

Nosir - dint overlook it - I'm going on the premise that:

a) Truck is started and running before all four loads are activated.

b) Not all four loads are activated at the same time ( e.g heads first, then fogs later ) - so - staggered inrush current events

c) Healthy alt and batt, with a running engine, will handily supply all of those loads and much more.

d) Even the worst ersatz "55w" ballasts only present that initial inrush for a couple seconds (or less) - with the stiffness of the DC rail ( with a robust battery ) coupled with the current-limiting of the harness wiring, it should not present an issue to the other vehicle systems.

e) Indeed - the inrush is obviously not that severe as it is not blowing the (harness) or ( headlight ) fuse.

Thet's a-me story an' I'm a-stickin' to 'er


Baaaaaaahhhhh ....

BlackSheepBubba

 

I appreciate the info. I'll have my charging system checked. The brand of HID's is Innovited. They came with metal, sturdy ballasts. I installed them on a 2005 Freestyle and they work fine. Could my source of problem really be the remote start? Or could it have been the way the hi/lo HID's were wired? The fog lights didn't hook up to anything but the stock fog light plugs, whereas the hi/lo HID's required grounding and a positive wire to the battery. Could loose connections be a problem at all?

 

MGDFan, 88Racing might be on to something. When I have my truck's accessories on without the motor, the battery is taking the load of the headlights, if they're on auto and it's nighttime, possibly the fogs if I have them on, my two 12" subs, my amp, and every LED on my truck which is every interior/exterior light PLUS my 60" tailgate light bar and various LED strips connected to the subs. I don't know much about that stuff, but could that overload my battery and/or alternator while the truck is off OR running?

 

Hi Noah;

Now we're talking - the operative term you used is: "When I have my truck's accessories on without the motor". Given the scenario you just described, it would indeed begin to tax the battery. Do that often enough, and you will eventually degrade the batt's efficiency due to repeated discharges.

Handy chart:

.

However - a lot of the failing systems you described in yer original post are not active when the truck isn't running - and would not be affected. But - in that state, the systems that still do depend upon adequate voltage levels will be. The remote start is likely just a casuality of the circumstances - not a root cause.

Now - IF you are starting the truck WITH all of those loads already 'on', then yes I think that would be a problem - the HID's ( that most recent thing you added) just put it over the edge so-to-speak. So yes - the inrush Eight-Eight described would certainly be a factor ( heads are turned off during cranking IIRC ).

In short - you need to either stage the load turn-on after the truck is started, or you need to implement electrical upgrades to alternator, battery, wiring (e.g 'Big Three') etc, etc. Probably both. The HID's in and of themselves are not the real issue ( other than their poor quality and lighting pattern - but that's another topic) - it's the combination of loads, and the limitations of the stock wiring ( voltage drops due to inadequate sizing).

Easy check - use an accurate voltmeter ( not the idiot gauge that comes with the truck) to measure the DC bus in the truck when loaded - both running and not.

Thanks fer supplying the rest of the pieces to this puzzle. Makes much more sense now. The statements that Patrick and Eighty-Eight made are correct.

Note that the properties I attributed to the cheap HID components still exist. You should still consider a quality retrofit if you wished to add HID lighting to yer truck. ( Note also that all HID systems should be using a proper fused relay harness with power sourced direct from the battery, and not simply be running directly from the vehicle sockets like yer fogs are doing - that's one sign of a poorly designed system).

Good luck.

MGD

 

Could you recommend a quality H13 HId kit so I can start searching? And what should I get if I do decide to update my alternator? I've heard of the big three upgrade as well (almost had to do it with my subs)

 

Hi Noah;

Alternators - some good reference info:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ght=alternator

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ght=alternator

https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...ght=alternator

https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...ght=alternator

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ght=alternator


HID:

Ideally you should invest in a complete retrofit system, where you install (or have installed for you by a retrofitter) an HID projector into yer factory ( or aftermarket) headlight housings.

These kits are available here: www.theretrofitsource.com

Example: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...ge-iv-kit.html

Example retrofitter ( Sammy): https://www.f150online.com/forums/pa...o-hid-kit.html

For the DIY'er, there is a vast amount of help available:

TRS tutorials: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/diy...on-guides.html

TRS UBoobToob Channel: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...fitsource&sm=1

And their Forum: www.hidplanet.com

IF you really wanted to install a PnP kit despite the obvious performance issues and glare, at least get one with some quality: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid...-h13-9008.html

To highlight the huge difference in lighting performance and precision, this thread has some good on-road beam shots: https://www.f150online.com/forums/il...-question.html

Lastly - a showcase of members' retrofits: https://www.f150online.com/forums/il...t-members.html


For fogs - I recommend one of their LED systems rather than an HID drop-in:

- http://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting.html

- http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...-fog-lamp.html

- and the least expensive DIY alternative (only $60 a pair!) with astounding quality and results (will require some fab work): http://www.theretrofitsource.com/clo...og-lights.html

There - that should keep you occupied fer a while

good luck
MGD